Conversion harness, diagnostic port not working...
LS1 Mustang now with some clutch slip, hydraulics or new disc? I have the harness installed properly, but the car is now running in what seems to be limp mode...I hooked up an OBDII scanner and it won't work. There is no cigarette lighter fuse to change, the harness has a lead marked "cig lighter" and it powers the CEL and supposedly the port. The CEL works of course 
This lead is a 12v source from my Mustang harness, and it's constant. Must not be getting power, right?
This lead is a 12v source from my Mustang harness, and it's constant. Must not be getting power, right?
Last edited by Mr. Hyde; Jul 23, 2007 at 10:50 AM.
Verify that the wiring is hooked up right. SHould be two ground wires, power and serial data. Check the sticky. Who programmed your computer? You may want to check that they didn't lock it. I don't know if they can lock out the serial port, but it is worth checking up on. My gut feeling is a bad/misplaced wire.
He's not answering my emails, so hopefully he's on vacation or busy...the PCM was flashed to remove the emissions and vats stuff, and I don't see why he would lock the serial port...but you never know. The power lead is hot and the grounds are grounding, so perhaps the serial lead is dead?
Hmm... Check the wires, and maybe put the two grounds on separate good grounds. I had some issues with mine when I first did it. I had both grounds spliced together and attached to one ground. Separated them, and gave them better grounds and it seemed to clear all the issues up. Also, test the wires from the port side. In other words, check for 12v at the plug terminals to make sure nothing broke off inside the plug. Check for the 12v and the ground. For the serial, just make sure the wire from the PCM isnt broken or pinched or grounding out. Just unhook the PCM plug, and do a continuity check from the port back to the PCM connector.
Hopefully the tuner didnt botch something in the PCM...but I dont think you can screw it up that bad to have the ALDL not work.
Justin
Hopefully the tuner didnt botch something in the PCM...but I dont think you can screw it up that bad to have the ALDL not work.
Justin
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Technically the 2 grounds are supposed to be grounded in 2 different spots. Some people have problems when they combine them and combining them works fine for others. I combined mine and it has always worked fine for me, but I have heard of others having problems using the same ground wire.
I have no idea why it makes a difference
, ground should be ground, but it is something to try if everything else checks out.
I have no idea why it makes a difference
, ground should be ground, but it is something to try if everything else checks out. Yeah man...I dont know what the deal is with the two ground thing. My autometer gauges were funny about that too. I tried to splice all the power wires together and run them to one source. But a few of them went nuts. So I had to have one source, to a fuse block, then put each gauge to power. Then they worked fine.
Electricity is some weird stuff...
Justin
Electricity is some weird stuff...
Justin
OK, finally solved alot of problems today. Many of them were thanks to y'alls advice, and I learned to use my voltmeter in the process 
So the diagnostic port wasn't working because one of the grounds wasn't good enough, fixed that and the port came to life. Used the code scanner to pull the code (PO200) and that threw me off...tested the injectors and turns out one of the injector leads in the scanmyride.com fuseblock wasn't solid, causing the driver side injector bank to not fire. Once that was fixed it fired right up and revved like it should
Took it for a spin and the hydraulic setup I used for the T-56 seems to work fine, but the clutch pedal only needs to be pushed a little less than halfway down to operate the clutch...is that normal? It seems like it needs to come all the way out to engage, but then it's on/off (has a SPEC clutch, not sure what type though) and it seems to go fine. I haven't had a chance to really drive it yet, so I have no other impressions really. I hope to drive it tomorrow to calibrate the speedo, and of course see what she's got!
So the diagnostic port wasn't working because one of the grounds wasn't good enough, fixed that and the port came to life. Used the code scanner to pull the code (PO200) and that threw me off...tested the injectors and turns out one of the injector leads in the scanmyride.com fuseblock wasn't solid, causing the driver side injector bank to not fire. Once that was fixed it fired right up and revved like it should
Took it for a spin and the hydraulic setup I used for the T-56 seems to work fine, but the clutch pedal only needs to be pushed a little less than halfway down to operate the clutch...is that normal? It seems like it needs to come all the way out to engage, but then it's on/off (has a SPEC clutch, not sure what type though) and it seems to go fine. I haven't had a chance to really drive it yet, so I have no other impressions really. I hope to drive it tomorrow to calibrate the speedo, and of course see what she's got! Trending Topics
Good man! Those pesky little grounds will get you every time.
As for your hydaulic question... Im not positive what car you have...I think you have a stang right? Anyway, I just recently got my pedals set where they should be and got the hydraulics working properly. however i have high engagment as well. Usually it doesnt engage until near the top...maybe the last third of the pedal. But I adjusted to it, and it still holds fine and shifts fine. I have a spec 3...
Justin
As for your hydaulic question... Im not positive what car you have...I think you have a stang right? Anyway, I just recently got my pedals set where they should be and got the hydraulics working properly. however i have high engagment as well. Usually it doesnt engage until near the top...maybe the last third of the pedal. But I adjusted to it, and it still holds fine and shifts fine. I have a spec 3...
Justin
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Verdad Gallardo LOL I toasted the clutch today, it slips any time I give it more than 1/3 throttle! Yes I do have a mustang, btw. I gotta say it hauls some donkey! Or at least it did.
Ground is a pretty important piece of the puzzle. The one line is actually a return line, while the other is just a reference rail. Just trust me that it makes sens keeping those two lines seperate, and we will all be happy, digital electronics are fickle about ground loops, and analog is downright nasty about them...
Glad you got it running. Did you look at the throw on your master? Sounds like you may need to offset the connection point to the pedal a little to alter the pedal height. Maybe bring it forward from the pedal an inch and see how that works out?
Glad you got it running. Did you look at the throw on your master? Sounds like you may need to offset the connection point to the pedal a little to alter the pedal height. Maybe bring it forward from the pedal an inch and see how that works out?
It's not the pedal height that bothers me, it's the slippage. The clutch seems to slip with any real throttle input once it heats up. It's a SPEC clutch, though I do not know which one. I suspect it's bad and needs to be replaced, but before I go through the paces of pulling it I thought I'd make sure that the hydraulics weren't causing the issue. The master has a one inch throw and the pedal setup allows me to use every bit of that pushrod travel...though it doesn't seem to need it. When I bled the slave I know that fluid went everyhere, and leaked from the bellhousing afterward. Could fluid be causing this? If so, do I simply spray brake cleaner inside?
