LQ4 into a 3rd Gen/1972 Nova
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
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From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Damn, I thought I could get away with that un-noticed. Ideally I'd have the plug wires come out on top AND have the coils "facing in" on both sides, and they stacked nicely for the pass. side but there was no way of making it happen for the driver side and be all compact and look good.
So it's the decision of whether to have both sides have plug wires facing up, or to flipp the driver side and have both sides face in towards the engine. I'll mock the flipped one up and see how it looks.
Also, making a custom location for the brake master cylinder, and using an intermittant wiper motor so I'm gonna move that on the firewall to between the brake master cylinder and the driver side fender, and just extend the linkage underneath the cowl.
So it's the decision of whether to have both sides have plug wires facing up, or to flipp the driver side and have both sides face in towards the engine. I'll mock the flipped one up and see how it looks.
Also, making a custom location for the brake master cylinder, and using an intermittant wiper motor so I'm gonna move that on the firewall to between the brake master cylinder and the driver side fender, and just extend the linkage underneath the cowl.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Modded the truck pan for the 2nd time. Originally done 3 years ago 100% by another guy for some beer, he didn't do the best job, and it still hung below the subframe cross-member about an inch, now it'll have good road clearance at 5.25" from the block to the bottom of the pan.
Powder coating & heat treating oven at work, figured might as well go all the way and pre-heat the **** out of the pan to minimize warpage as well as work some more of the oil out of the cast pan even though I already sand blasted & scotchbrited it...
Welder at work did it this time, my machine at home has nowhere near the capacity running on only 110V currently...
Still have to drill & tap for a drain plug & two oil return fittings (1 for turbo and 1 for oil breather/separator/catchcan).
Powder coating & heat treating oven at work, figured might as well go all the way and pre-heat the **** out of the pan to minimize warpage as well as work some more of the oil out of the cast pan even though I already sand blasted & scotchbrited it...
Welder at work did it this time, my machine at home has nowhere near the capacity running on only 110V currently...
Still have to drill & tap for a drain plug & two oil return fittings (1 for turbo and 1 for oil breather/separator/catchcan).
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Joined: Jul 2009
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But the added volume isn't in the pan. Don't you want to maintain a curtain amount of volume IN THE PAN to keep the pick up supplied/submerged?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
And I might even just use the oil level sensor itself as the drain plug haha.
Made a fuel evap purge solenoid blockoff plate, then thought maybe I could thread it and have it for a boost sensor, but it ended up stacking the boost sensor as high as the solenoid it was supposed to be replacing (entire point was to get rid of that height because it hit the hood). So made an "addition" for the sensor to thread into...
Wow, is there any chance you could make one of those for me too????
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As far as I can tell, from comparing my new pan dimensions to the ones that have been posted here on the massive thread sticky for oil pans, is that it is now essentially an f-body LS1 pan, so I figure if Camaro's got away with it, I should be ok too. I'm thinking about throwing in a quick couple baffles too just to aid.
LOL. good idea.
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I need one, and have yet to find anything suitable. Thread Starter
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Funny I don't remember saying that......... 
kendogg... I could make one for you, I still have the sketch I made for it. You wanting just the blockoff part without the extra threaded boss? Shoot me a PM.
kendogg... I could make one for you, I still have the sketch I made for it. You wanting just the blockoff part without the extra threaded boss? Shoot me a PM.
I still question your pans capacity ?..Knowing the rear sump on a F-Body is long (rear to the front of the rear/lower sump), I took my spare F-Body pan and put 5 qt of water in it and measure how far it came up to the top.. at 5 qt, it was 1-1/2" from the top of the oil pan flange. Might want to check it that way to get a good idea of what yours is.
