Cam only, winter upgrades. Bitch in on a diet
#585
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I still them on my car, but removed them on a friends car. I bought 2 cheap 10mm wenches, and cut the box end off about 1inch, and welded them on at about 120*. (tighter then 90*) and kept the shaft flat so the box end still have the bend. Made one left and one right.
I think I posted this with pics? you have a "7" and a rev. one. They fit perfect down the tube and the offect get the wrench away for the tube curve for the indder bolt that deeper in the tube. The you double wrench, with another box wrench locked on the open end, you break the bolt loose. The rear bolt was 13mm I htink and used the serpentine belt tool, with the shallow scoket. It was a LT1 camaro, firebird have more room.
kinda like this, little more lenght were it was cut and was the box end of the same wrench.
![](http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-7/37778/MVC-161S.JPG)
more like this
I think I posted this with pics? you have a "7" and a rev. one. They fit perfect down the tube and the offect get the wrench away for the tube curve for the indder bolt that deeper in the tube. The you double wrench, with another box wrench locked on the open end, you break the bolt loose. The rear bolt was 13mm I htink and used the serpentine belt tool, with the shallow scoket. It was a LT1 camaro, firebird have more room.
kinda like this, little more lenght were it was cut and was the box end of the same wrench.
more like this
Last edited by studderin; 10-03-2011 at 10:43 AM.
#586
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
today at indy
new valvespring setup, new Prods. didnt have time to dyo it and see. back to stock spindles, front brakes.
spun, 1.733
11.062 127.71
junk 1.495
10.777 @127.67
junk 1.505
10.735 @127.35
weather 80's hot under thw sun, not sure the Da. cars making some power, looking to get the 60s back in lower the et, not going get in 10.5s
new valvespring setup, new Prods. didnt have time to dyo it and see. back to stock spindles, front brakes.
spun, 1.733
11.062 127.71
junk 1.495
10.777 @127.67
junk 1.505
10.735 @127.35
weather 80's hot under thw sun, not sure the Da. cars making some power, looking to get the 60s back in lower the et, not going get in 10.5s
#587
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got a new best but only by .001 on sat. ran a 10.660. MPH I was really happy with went 129.89. Almost 130 cam only
Cars making some power with the new cam, and I took the catback off so that helped. Switched form Index to the all motor class since it only had 5 cars, Chris Folwer beat me 1st round, I was super nervous and rolled the beams getting on the 2step, So I didnt get a time, but it was still a lot of run. And I still got a check for being in qtr. finals ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
60's sucked all weekend low 1.5's
1.48 on the 10.6. The Et drags are super old, I bought them in 2007 or 2008 and put 300?? passes on them so I need to get a new set. There leaking now to from some little cuts from rocks, the sidewalls are really weak, I got my use out of them.
Got home today and found some boxes form burkhart, stuff looks good. I'll get it on this week, and get some new slicks.
Anyone get any pics or videos, I'd love to see them. Post there here or email studderin@aol.com
big pic
http://image.gmhightechperformance.c...236/rumble.jpg
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
60's sucked all weekend low 1.5's
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Got home today and found some boxes form burkhart, stuff looks good. I'll get it on this week, and get some new slicks.
Anyone get any pics or videos, I'd love to see them. Post there here or email studderin@aol.com
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
http://image.gmhightechperformance.c...236/rumble.jpg
Last edited by studderin; 10-10-2011 at 08:49 PM.
#588
10 Second Club
iTrader: (30)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got a new best but only by .001 on sat. ran a 10.660. MPH I was really happy with went 129.89. Almost 130 cam only
Cars making some power with the new cam, and I took the catback off so that helped. Switched form Index to the all motor class since it only had 5 cars, Chris Folwer beat me 1st round, I was super nervous and rolled the beams getting on the 2step, So I didnt get a time, but it was still a lot of run. And I still got a check for being in qtr. finals ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
60's sucked all weekend low 1.5's
1.48 on the 10.6. The Et drags are super old, I bought them in 2007 or 2008 and put 300?? passes on them so I need to get a new set. There leaking now to from some little cuts from rocks, the sidewalls are really weak, I got my use out of them.
Got home today and found some boxes form burkhart, stuff looks good. I'll get it on this week, and get some new slicks.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
60's sucked all weekend low 1.5's
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
Got home today and found some boxes form burkhart, stuff looks good. I'll get it on this week, and get some new slicks.
#589
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I put the parts on the scale and took a pic on my phone to remember them, I haven't bought another camera yet
spindles (stock height) with the spindle nut hardwear, and caliper braket bolts ans a alum spacer are 19.4# (feel lighter then the race crafts)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/1010111612.jpg)
bolt in manual rack. with bump steer kit, tow hook,steering shaft is 19.2# (I'll get the stock weight with fluid)
spindles (stock height) with the spindle nut hardwear, and caliper braket bolts ans a alum spacer are 19.4# (feel lighter then the race crafts)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/1010111612.jpg)
bolt in manual rack. with bump steer kit, tow hook,steering shaft is 19.2# (I'll get the stock weight with fluid)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/1010111616.jpg)
Last edited by studderin; 10-24-2011 at 03:19 PM.
#593
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For sheet metal, thouse alum. panels I have? = no a Friend at a chassis chop made them for me.
the wheel wells- I borrowed the eastwood, worked good.
Some vids I found of my junk at the shootout
http://video.lsxtv.com/video/15312
http://video.lsxtv.com/video/15320
the wheel wells- I borrowed the eastwood, worked good.
Some vids I found of my junk at the shootout
http://video.lsxtv.com/video/15312
http://video.lsxtv.com/video/15320
#594
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Gona use madmans alimgment specs.
thanks kevin for this pic
Put the tires you plan on racing with on the car. Set the caster with as much as you can get. Usually 5-6 degrees. Camber at 0. Tell them to set both sides the same DONOT set the car up for road crown. Now for the important part. Set toe at 1/16th toe in at ride height. Then raise the front end up till the front shocks are almost extended, recheck toe. Then squat the front end like its under hard braking. Recheck toe. NEVER!!!!!!!! have toe out. If you do the car will hunt for guardrails.
thanks kevin for this pic
![](http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss92/kevin99hoss/IMG_1802.jpg)
#596
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Worked alot getting some new stuff on. SteveO (red01Z on here?) helped me a ton. We worked all night to get to the track, to get some testing on 275 Drs.
Thanks A Lot!
burkhart manual rack. bolt in.
[/IMG]
Piled all these parts up came in at 19.4#s
(steering shaft was drying form paint, came raw? and missing one side in this pic)
Bolted right in nice. Came with everything, no directions but its a race part. Some of the paint around end holes like on the steering shaft sleeves chipps off easy, but wrenching on them held up, So probally oils off the threads messed up the powder coat. I tried to take the stock PS off all together but that didn't work.![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Rack bolts hit the oil pan, (dont know why I didn't switch them what I did the Kmeber
) So go you have to jack the motor up (driver side mostly). loosen the trans bolt, pull the lid off, block of wood under the oil pan. jack the weight off the motor mount bolt. But it hits the alt...... looses the alt. (disconnect battery) let it chill there, get the motor mount bolt out. Jack the motor more, watch the FAST fitting the firewall, it gets close... Guess its ok. Rack bolt hit oil pan bolt, Remove that bolt over the rack bolt, bolt still hits... .... JacK the motor a little more..... then the PS drain pulls off the pump, and dumps all the fuild into the alt
Not a good time to happen. finally got the rack bolt out. The alt has been fine so far.
The old PS rack weights the same if anything its .2 LIGHTER then this setup.
The burkhart mount it kinds big and bulky, get into that later. Not as much weight saving as I was hoping. Just the pump stuff really. It barely holds any fluid maybe 1/4 qt? I haven't weight the pump, lines, and the bracket. But its not that heavy, maybe 7 pounds? 9-10 with fuild?
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0316.jpg)
Turn the rack all the way to the right, mark that. Then the other way, Its a little over 4 turns, About a 3/8 space on the input shaft between the stopped line you mark. So set the rack between those marks as up when you put the steering shaft on with the wheel strait in the car. I tightened all the threads on the rack ends in, to start (jam nuts on 1st, keep them loose) and what worked out good.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0323.jpg)
Set the toe to about 1/8 total (1/16th per side) But with the front end jacked up a few inches get slight toe out/ I hear that is bad? I think its because the rack is mounted so far ahead of the steering arms. Its mounts a few inches forward stock so the rack ends have to go back to the steering arms? No idea why it built like that? Its kind low too its the lowest under the car now, Im scared to find out when I
bottom out on it.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0319.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0324.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0320.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0322.jpg)
I used the bumpsteer spacers to the rack ends are level at ride height, Anyone know if thats what way to space them? is that why it gets toe out with the front end up?
Thanks A Lot!
burkhart manual rack. bolt in.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0315.jpg)
Piled all these parts up came in at 19.4#s
(steering shaft was drying form paint, came raw? and missing one side in this pic)
Bolted right in nice. Came with everything, no directions but its a race part. Some of the paint around end holes like on the steering shaft sleeves chipps off easy, but wrenching on them held up, So probally oils off the threads messed up the powder coat. I tried to take the stock PS off all together but that didn't work.
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Rack bolts hit the oil pan, (dont know why I didn't switch them what I did the Kmeber
![Cry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_cry.gif)
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
The old PS rack weights the same if anything its .2 LIGHTER then this setup.
![Sad](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_sad.gif)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0316.jpg)
Turn the rack all the way to the right, mark that. Then the other way, Its a little over 4 turns, About a 3/8 space on the input shaft between the stopped line you mark. So set the rack between those marks as up when you put the steering shaft on with the wheel strait in the car. I tightened all the threads on the rack ends in, to start (jam nuts on 1st, keep them loose) and what worked out good.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0323.jpg)
Set the toe to about 1/8 total (1/16th per side) But with the front end jacked up a few inches get slight toe out/ I hear that is bad? I think its because the rack is mounted so far ahead of the steering arms. Its mounts a few inches forward stock so the rack ends have to go back to the steering arms? No idea why it built like that? Its kind low too its the lowest under the car now, Im scared to find out when I
bottom out on it.
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0319.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0324.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0320.jpg)
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11/studderin/IMAG0322.jpg)
I used the bumpsteer spacers to the rack ends are level at ride height, Anyone know if thats what way to space them? is that why it gets toe out with the front end up?
Last edited by studderin; 10-24-2011 at 03:30 PM.
#597
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (45)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Last year when I weighed the Burkhart manual rack it was 2.4 lbs ligher than the stock rack.
But the overall weight saving from switching from power to manual steering was 13.5 lbs if you consider the ps pump, lines, pulley, fluid, and the engine bay is a lot more cleaner.
I too however was dissapointed I didn't save more weight but I did it mostly so street driving will be tolerable. No way would I drive with a looped stock rack.
But the overall weight saving from switching from power to manual steering was 13.5 lbs if you consider the ps pump, lines, pulley, fluid, and the engine bay is a lot more cleaner.
I too however was dissapointed I didn't save more weight but I did it mostly so street driving will be tolerable. No way would I drive with a looped stock rack.
#599
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ya it drives not that bad at all. I drove the the track open headers so took back roads and did some U turns right on the 2 lane road, when I was going to drive thu a town I was tring to go around
Its kinda weird, its smooth and tight. When you 1st turn is super easy for like that 1/2 turn then it firm, So when you pulling into a parking lot of a driveway you need to have two hands on the wheel. But I think thats just because your slowing down alot. And you not used to speed affecting the steering.
I drilled the hole were it slips in the end of the coulm and bolt and washered that so it tight with no play, I read other guys had play in there. The rack mount flex if you turn the wheel with the car parked, and look under the car. Chuck told me about pulling the U clip thing out of the cloum, I did that and the steering shaft slid in there nice. But I wanted it to be tight. Theres no play in the wheel really.
Did you get the stock mount bolt in style? The bare rack is lighter, I think it was 16.x pounds with the bumpstreer stuff. But that mount offsets it, were it bolts in is solid metal. The passenger side is wider then it needs to be. Maybe they make it like that do they only have to make one style and not have right and left short tubes?
I think my stock rack drained best I could was like 19.0. the weight saving it just the lines, and pump.
have you scraped the rack yet?
![Secret2](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/secret.gif)
Its kinda weird, its smooth and tight. When you 1st turn is super easy for like that 1/2 turn then it firm, So when you pulling into a parking lot of a driveway you need to have two hands on the wheel. But I think thats just because your slowing down alot. And you not used to speed affecting the steering.
I drilled the hole were it slips in the end of the coulm and bolt and washered that so it tight with no play, I read other guys had play in there. The rack mount flex if you turn the wheel with the car parked, and look under the car. Chuck told me about pulling the U clip thing out of the cloum, I did that and the steering shaft slid in there nice. But I wanted it to be tight. Theres no play in the wheel really.
Did you get the stock mount bolt in style? The bare rack is lighter, I think it was 16.x pounds with the bumpstreer stuff. But that mount offsets it, were it bolts in is solid metal. The passenger side is wider then it needs to be. Maybe they make it like that do they only have to make one style and not have right and left short tubes?
I think my stock rack drained best I could was like 19.0. the weight saving it just the lines, and pump.
have you scraped the rack yet?
Last edited by studderin; 04-20-2012 at 12:53 PM.