How to delete ABS?
02-22-2009, 01:33 PM
#1
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How to delete ABS? Is there a good write up on this? I just bought a ssbc proporting valve. Has an inlet/outlet on it and a **** on the top, is this the part i need? If so, what now? Love to clean the engine bay up. Thanks 
02-22-2009, 02:28 PM
#2
The valve is a good start.
You may not want to hear this but you can consider our ABS delete kits.
The base kit which includes an adjustable wilwood valve and mounting kit is 139.99. It would include ever fitting, preformed lines plus everything else you need to bolt it on the car minus a line lock and minus the double flare tool. If you wanted/needed those two options, the double flare tool is a 20.00 option and our SJM line lock kit (including two switches, wire, LED and misc connects) is a 40.00 option.
All kits include a full writeup with pictures.
You may not want to hear this but you can consider our ABS delete kits.
The base kit which includes an adjustable wilwood valve and mounting kit is 139.99. It would include ever fitting, preformed lines plus everything else you need to bolt it on the car minus a line lock and minus the double flare tool. If you wanted/needed those two options, the double flare tool is a 20.00 option and our SJM line lock kit (including two switches, wire, LED and misc connects) is a 40.00 option.
All kits include a full writeup with pictures.
02-22-2009, 04:59 PM
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remove the complete brake system that should shave off 50+lbs and cut a big hole on in the floor and FLINTSTONE that thing LOL. J/K I was thinking of removing that big ugly block myself and installing a linelock. Could someone post up some pics of their engine bay with this gone so I can get a idea of how much room it takes up.
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02-22-2009, 06:02 PM
#11
Total weight removal depends on a few factors. You can remove wiring associated with it...some of them have a separate EBCM which is a pound or so as well. If the car had TCS (since it is a function of the ABS controller) will drop ~19-20lbs from an LS1. If the LS1 doesn't have TCS, ~12-13lbs as mentioned is about right for the bracket and ABS controller w/associated pieces.
If you compare dollar for dollar removing ABS asside from free mods is one of the least expensive best bang for the buck modifications. Most importantly, it free's up headaches associated with ABS issues. It cleans up the engine bay allowing for easier plumbing for forced induction or other modifications to the engine area.
02-22-2009, 06:33 PM
#12
02-22-2009, 11:16 PM
#13
We could configure it for you as requested.
I think the main problem you're going to have though is placement of your valve. The mounting points are horizontal whereas Wilwood's valve is vertical. This makes positioning challenging (due to surface area in the engine bay you have).
The **** on the wilwood is positioned a bit better making accessibility and control easier in my opinion. Our valves come pre-assembled with appropriate fittings.
I think you're better option is to consider returning the one you recently purchased. It may be less headaches in the end. this is entirely up to you.
I think the main problem you're going to have though is placement of your valve. The mounting points are horizontal whereas Wilwood's valve is vertical. This makes positioning challenging (due to surface area in the engine bay you have).
The **** on the wilwood is positioned a bit better making accessibility and control easier in my opinion. Our valves come pre-assembled with appropriate fittings.
I think you're better option is to consider returning the one you recently purchased. It may be less headaches in the end. this is entirely up to you.
02-23-2009, 04:51 AM
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The valve is a good start.
You may not want to hear this but you can consider our ABS delete kits.
The base kit which includes an adjustable wilwood valve and mounting kit is 139.99. It would include ever fitting, preformed lines plus everything else you need to bolt it on the car minus a line lock and minus the double flare tool. If you wanted/needed those two options, the double flare tool is a 20.00 option and our SJM line lock kit (including two switches, wire, LED and misc connects) is a 40.00 option.
All kits include a full writeup with pictures.
You may not want to hear this but you can consider our ABS delete kits.
The base kit which includes an adjustable wilwood valve and mounting kit is 139.99. It would include ever fitting, preformed lines plus everything else you need to bolt it on the car minus a line lock and minus the double flare tool. If you wanted/needed those two options, the double flare tool is a 20.00 option and our SJM line lock kit (including two switches, wire, LED and misc connects) is a 40.00 option.
All kits include a full writeup with pictures.
02-26-2009, 12:30 AM
#15
02-26-2009, 05:29 AM
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It allows you to ditch the ABS if you don't want it anymore or if you decide to switch to a rearend to equipped for ABS applications.
The proportioning valve allows you to adjust the front to back bias of the brakes so you are not locking up the rears an the fronts aren't doing hardly a thing, or vice versa.
The proportioning valve allows you to adjust the front to back bias of the brakes so you are not locking up the rears an the fronts aren't doing hardly a thing, or vice versa.
02-26-2009, 06:04 AM
#17
A lot of guys who do this are running drag racing setups with those little skinny tires up front. When you do this you do not want the majority of your braking force to be done with the front tires, because they will lock up. With the adjustable valve you can configure it however you want it to.
02-26-2009, 08:30 AM
#19
Originally, the ABS controller took care of brake bias needs. When you remove ABS, you completely remove all bias controlling. You've got about as much chance as the car being biased correctly as hitting the lottery.
When your brakes are not biased well, brakes are not utilized to maximum efficiency so stopping distances and predicable stops are worsened. Having poor biased braking can be a driving hazard if the rears lock before the fronts (which would be typical). If you're turning and slightly apply the brakes, the rears lock, you're rear-end will swing out like you're doing a doughnut in a parking lot with the emergency brake. An adjustable proportioning valve enables you to adjust for variances.
The valve needs to be adjustable as no one car is going to be the same. Weight distribution, tires, rotors, pads etc effect how your car stops. All of our kits include the adjustable wilwood valve and preformed lines.
Our kits remove the most mass possible as you are removing the entire ABS bracket and controller. It allows for maximum air flow for the engine bay as well as space for other modifications i.e. turbo or supercharger routing. It also makes the car much easier to work on since the area is completely open.
Our kits use preformed hardline only. They enable the user to remove existing braided lines which can increase brake reaction (helps remove spongy brakes from line expansion). Replacing rubber lines (like the stock ones going to your calipers) can be beneficial. Adding braided lines or replacing hard lines with braided lines to your existing hydraulic brake system decreases brake performance.
When your brakes are not biased well, brakes are not utilized to maximum efficiency so stopping distances and predicable stops are worsened. Having poor biased braking can be a driving hazard if the rears lock before the fronts (which would be typical). If you're turning and slightly apply the brakes, the rears lock, you're rear-end will swing out like you're doing a doughnut in a parking lot with the emergency brake. An adjustable proportioning valve enables you to adjust for variances.
The valve needs to be adjustable as no one car is going to be the same. Weight distribution, tires, rotors, pads etc effect how your car stops. All of our kits include the adjustable wilwood valve and preformed lines.
Our kits remove the most mass possible as you are removing the entire ABS bracket and controller. It allows for maximum air flow for the engine bay as well as space for other modifications i.e. turbo or supercharger routing. It also makes the car much easier to work on since the area is completely open.
Our kits use preformed hardline only. They enable the user to remove existing braided lines which can increase brake reaction (helps remove spongy brakes from line expansion). Replacing rubber lines (like the stock ones going to your calipers) can be beneficial. Adding braided lines or replacing hard lines with braided lines to your existing hydraulic brake system decreases brake performance.
Last edited by SJM Manufacturing Inc; 02-26-2009 at 08:47 AM.
02-26-2009, 11:19 AM
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Our kits use preformed hardline only. They enable the user to remove existing braided lines which can increase brake reaction (helps remove spongy brakes from line expansion). Replacing rubber lines (like the stock ones going to your calipers) can be beneficial. Adding braided lines or replacing hard lines with braided lines to your existing hydraulic brake system decreases brake performance.
again but I need some convincing that this can be done without a huge effort.