LadyDriven

I've been talking with Lloyd at Lloyd Elliot Portworks about a new set of heads, and a new cam. I'm going with his LE2 heads, and he's given me a couple different options for cams. I'm currently running a cc503, but want to move up a bit. He gave me two different options for the cam, but I really know nothing about cams and am looking for a little guidance! Here's a bit from the email he sent me:

228/236.592/.592 110 LSA will work great and pull to 6400 RPM with TONS of mid range TQ.

The 230/240 .592/.592 110 LSA will make a lil loess low and mid range but the same power at 5000 RPM and about 5 more HP at 6000 RPM and about 8 more HP at 6500 RPM.


Now... I'm going to be running a 3600 stall TC, and am wondering if it would be pointless to go with something that makes a lot of low end torque? The car is a 95 Trans Am, LT1

kalebm22

iTrader: (2)

if it was me ide go with the 230/240 cam. it should still have plenty of torque witht that stall converter.

LadyDriven

Do you mind if I ask what your car runs? Because we are DAMN close to having the same mods. (other than the 383 part, I'm still working on that...)

kalebm22

iTrader: (2)

well i havnt taken it to the track yet but im shooting for high tens once its all dialed in.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

+2 on this cam as well. Is this a daily driver? if not, step up the stall to 4000 and maybe a set of 3.73 gear to really make use of the new set up. Good luck.

LadyDriven

Its not a DD, but I do drive it on the street quite a bit in the summer. Probably four to five days a week. I just ordered the 3600 stall, so I really cant move up to a 4000 at the moment. Also, the 4.10s just went in a few months ago, and cost me an arm and a leg to have installed, so I don't really want to switch those out now. Are they going to hurt my ET??

LadyDriven

Also, another dumb question: Once I have this here and all bolted together, I'm going to need to get it tuned. I live on an island just off the coast of BC, Canada, and will have to take a ferry to the mainland and have someone in Vancouver do the tuning. Will it be ok to drive it on the ferry, and straight to the tuner? Or will it need to be trailered? Just asking, because the ferry is bloody expensive and charges by the foot if you're longer than something like 15 feet.

Amanda

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Since you already have them on, they will work fine especially the w/4.10 gearing. You should at least get a mail order tune for the new h/c combo, 3600 stall,and the gear. Give MadTuner a call.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

definitely get a mail order tune, it likely won't hold an idle when you throw it all together.

LadyDriven

Damn, I was hoping to be able to at least limp it onto the ferry to go get it dyno tuned in Vancouver

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

just send the pcm out while you are tearing the car down. you could try but it is going to be a nightmare IMO

LadyDriven

Isn't it better to have it tuned in person, with the car there? I don't want to pay for a mail order tune, then still have to go to the mainland and have it tuned to run the way I want. Seems like a waste of a couple hundred bucks

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Might be able to pay your tuner in advance and have him mail order you a baseline tune to get you driving

kline454

iTrader: (1)

i would go with the 230-240 i used to run a BRE custom grind hyd roller lt1 cam,234-246 .608-.609lift with 1.6 rockers 105.5 ls, with le2 heads and 3600 tci stall, motor loved it opti hated it..lol

LadyDriven

Why did the opti hate it?

kline454

iTrader: (1)

motor liked to be shifted at 6800-7000rpm i had 3 new optis go bad in one season,2 of them the rotors came apart, although my friend is shifting his at the same rpm and not having any problems.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Ive only blown up 1 opti so far spinning to 6800-7k. Hope this one lasts a while.