Bogarts / Alumastars vs Prostars (ET Difference)
10-31-2011, 09:36 AM
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Bogarts / Alumastars vs Prostars (ET Difference) Are Bogarts / Alumastars worth switching from Prostars ET wise? I have searched and SJM has brought up several times the rotational weight savings is a 1 to 4 rotational/static weight ratio. According to him switching from a 15x10 Prostar (15lbs) to a 15x10 Bogart (10 lbs) will sase 40lbs of static weight. Does anyone have data proving this?
10-31-2011, 10:36 AM
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are you running 6.90's ?? I would say that a max effort type of car ,it might be worth the expense like Gun drilled axles and ceramic bearings ...max effort means exactly that any thing to get the extra E.T......but for anything else its mainly for looks ...I doubt there will be a noticeable et drop...kinda like a 100 lbs = a .10... it might be true for some...but its hardly linear ...some cars gain some cars dont ...I have alumastars ..but the weight I saved is made up for by the radials I run...
10-31-2011, 10:49 AM
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I will have to weigh the rims to get the correct #'s, but I just did a little calculation with the tires I'm running.
2 x MT 28x10.5x15s = 44lbs
2 x MT Sportsman S/R = 40lbs
Total = 88lbs
2 x Hoosier LW 30x9x15 Drag Radial Slicks = 44lbs
2 x Hoosier 26x4.5x15 Front Runners = 22lbs
Total = 66lbs
Looks like switching to the Hoosiers will save 22lbs in tires (rotational). So if the 1 to 4 ratio is correct they would save 88lbs static weight. Still going to need proof from someone though
2 x MT 28x10.5x15s = 44lbs
2 x MT Sportsman S/R = 40lbs
Total = 88lbs
2 x Hoosier LW 30x9x15 Drag Radial Slicks = 44lbs
2 x Hoosier 26x4.5x15 Front Runners = 22lbs
Total = 66lbs
Looks like switching to the Hoosiers will save 22lbs in tires (rotational). So if the 1 to 4 ratio is correct they would save 88lbs static weight. Still going to need proof from someone though
10-31-2011, 01:52 PM
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Got wheel weights 
Prostar 3.5x15 = 10.5 ea
Prostar 10x15 = 16.5 ea
Alumastar 2.0 3.5x10 1pc = 8.6 ea
Alumastar 2.0 10x15 = 12.6 ea
Magnum 3.5x15 1pc = 7.6 ea
Magnum 10x15 = 12.9 ea
My current Prostar / MT setup = 142 lbs.
Magnums / Hoosier setup = 107 lbs.
According to the 1 to 4 ratio that is a weight saving of 140 lbs.
Sorry for doing a little bench racing today. Do you think the Magnum / Hoosier setup would give me a .10 reduction in ET?
Feel free to add Bogart weights to the thread as I don't know any of those.
Prostar 3.5x15 = 10.5 ea
Prostar 10x15 = 16.5 ea
Alumastar 2.0 3.5x10 1pc = 8.6 ea
Alumastar 2.0 10x15 = 12.6 ea
Magnum 3.5x15 1pc = 7.6 ea
Magnum 10x15 = 12.9 ea
My current Prostar / MT setup = 142 lbs.
Magnums / Hoosier setup = 107 lbs.
According to the 1 to 4 ratio that is a weight saving of 140 lbs.
Sorry for doing a little bench racing today. Do you think the Magnum / Hoosier setup would give me a .10 reduction in ET?
Feel free to add Bogart weights to the thread as I don't know any of those.
10-31-2011, 01:59 PM
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are you running 6.90's ?? I would say that a max effort type of car ,it might be worth the expense like Gun drilled axles and ceramic bearings ...max effort means exactly that any thing to get the extra E.T......but for anything else its mainly for looks ...I doubt there will be a noticeable et drop...kinda like a 100 lbs = a .10... it might be true for some...but its hardly linear ...some cars gain some cars dont ...I have alumastars ..but the weight I saved is made up for by the radials I run...
10-31-2011, 07:46 PM
#6
Gains are minimal at best. 40 lbs of static going to be at best .04 in the 1/4 by the general assumptions.
If you are extreamly lucky you might see .1 from the wheel swap but nothing is for sure with weight especialy such a small amount. It shouldn't hurt you but it probably won't give you anything you can count on since .1 can be gained or lost by so many factors.
If you are extreamly lucky you might see .1 from the wheel swap but nothing is for sure with weight especialy such a small amount. It shouldn't hurt you but it probably won't give you anything you can count on since .1 can be gained or lost by so many factors.
10-31-2011, 08:36 PM
#7
Why the 30x9? what do you think you will gain?
whats 60's do you get with the 28 10.5s ... 1.49 for a auto has a ton of room.
whats your full mod list, got a writeup on the car? I bet there 5 other things that will gain way for then the money for better wheels.
whats 60's do you get with the 28 10.5s ... 1.49 for a auto has a ton of room.
whats your full mod list, got a writeup on the car? I bet there 5 other things that will gain way for then the money for better wheels.
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10-31-2011, 08:36 PM
#8
Why the 30x9? what do you think you will gain?
whats 60's do you get with the 28 10.5s ... 1.49 for a auto has a ton of room.
whats your full mod list, got a writeup on the car? I bet there 5 other things that will gain way for then the money for better wheels.
whats 60's do you get with the 28 10.5s ... 1.49 for a auto has a ton of room.
whats your full mod list, got a writeup on the car? I bet there 5 other things that will gain way for then the money for better wheels.
10-31-2011, 08:50 PM
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6,90s in the 1/4 not the 1/8...again people spend stupid money on max effort stuff...you would be money and ET ahead to spend the money on engine trans or convertor...light weight brakes ...k member etc,,,but the alumastars look bitchen
10-31-2011, 08:56 PM
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The 30x9's are what most of the stockers are running and they are lighter weight. I could possibly go to a 4.56 gear to help the 60' also. As for the write up on the car that will take a while as I'm sure you understand, but I will work on one.
10-31-2011, 09:14 PM
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.
As mentioned, bang for the buck, and that's a lot of money for a car that will barely see a difference.
Even at my level it's stupid money for a few pounds for a little gain.
Like I'm way over my weight and I'm thinking of a light weight battery,
but writing a check for hundreds of dollars for 30 lbs when I have 3 perfectly good batteries is hard to do, trust me.
I would rather spend the money wisely, or save for an emergency fund,
then spend it on some so-called formula that I don't think is as high as you think??
Good luck.
.
As mentioned, bang for the buck, and that's a lot of money for a car that will barely see a difference.
Even at my level it's stupid money for a few pounds for a little gain.
Like I'm way over my weight and I'm thinking of a light weight battery,
but writing a check for hundreds of dollars for 30 lbs when I have 3 perfectly good batteries is hard to do, trust me.
I would rather spend the money wisely, or save for an emergency fund,
then spend it on some so-called formula that I don't think is as high as you think??
Good luck.
.
10-31-2011, 09:17 PM
#12
if you dont have 465s with the 28s the cars gona be ever slower with 30's
not to be rude but you have a lot of room in thouse 60's. get the car to go low 1.4s and you'll move up a few spots. Get 465s. stay with the 28x10.5s or try 275 radials if you have good shocks.
not to be rude but you have a lot of room in thouse 60's. get the car to go low 1.4s and you'll move up a few spots. Get 465s. stay with the 28x10.5s or try 275 radials if you have good shocks.
11-01-2011, 06:10 PM
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Fast 90/90 (non ported)
90mm lid
42 lb injectors
85mm MAF
90 mm TSP lid
Underdrive pulley
Home made Ram Air (Sux2bu style)
Edelbrock 1 3/4 x 1 7/8" stepped headers
Built 8.8 rear with spool & 4.10 gear
Built 4STB transmission (AOD with GM bellhousing non lockup)
PTC 5100 stall
BMR K-member & lower A-arms
BMR boxed sub frame connectors
BMR lca relocation brackets
12 way adj QA-1 adj shocks in front & 3 way adj Comp Engineering in rear
Spohn adj torque arm
Spohn adj pan hard bar
Spohn 1" rear sway bar
Bad Z adj lower control arms
Poly engine mounts
Poly tranny mount
15x3 Pro Stars with 26" MT SR radials
15x10 Pro Stars with 28x10.5x15s MT ET Drag (stiff wall)
Wolf chromoly 6pt roll bar
Weight reduction 3000 lbs without driver
Really not any different than everyone else except the choices in rear and tranny.
Last edited by BAIN; 11-01-2011 at 06:22 PM.
11-01-2011, 07:12 PM
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I would spend the 2k in on brakes (strange) and a double adjustable shock in the rear Afco / Strange ..in that order...You have enough tire to run deep into the 8's or even faster...work on the suspension ..get your 60ft times down...My Chevelle runs 10.60s with a consistent 1.41-1.44 60 ft on drag radials ...@ 3700lbs without driver...strange dbl on the rear...
11-02-2011, 01:02 AM
#15
I think you have some good stuff to get maybe even 1.3's with the auto 5100 stall. I'd work on that. Maybe more gear
My clutch was slipping just right when I was cutting low 1.4s for about 2 weeks. But I really had some cheap stuff. Same parts you have. I've bought DA rear shocks, went from 430s the 456s, added 16whp, drag brakes, drop spindles. I few things that should be beter then what I had (bought it used for cheap too) and have not gone any faster.
Bad Z, you mean peteZ LCA? Iif so, is your TA mounted in the front?
My clutch was slipping just right when I was cutting low 1.4s for about 2 weeks. But I really had some cheap stuff. Same parts you have. I've bought DA rear shocks, went from 430s the 456s, added 16whp, drag brakes, drop spindles. I few things that should be beter then what I had (bought it used for cheap too) and have not gone any faster.
Bad Z, you mean peteZ LCA? Iif so, is your TA mounted in the front?
11-02-2011, 12:33 PM
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How did you get the extra 16 rwhp? The BadZ LCA's are just adjustable LCA's made by a member BadZ not the peteZ LCA's. TA is still mounted with the Yank crossmember by the transmission and rear housing.
11-03-2011, 01:18 AM
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I would spend the 2k in on brakes (strange) and a double adjustable shock in the rear Afco / Strange ..in that order...You have enough tire to run deep into the 8's or even faster...work on the suspension ..get your 60ft times down...My Chevelle runs 10.60s with a consistent 1.41-1.44 60 ft on drag radials ...@ 3700lbs without driver...strange dbl on the rear...
Your sixty foot that is. Congrats! What type of power are you making?
11-03-2011, 09:28 AM
#20
not sure on the gearing of that trans to mate with that stall
but the 4L60E trans gearing, with 4.10s out back on 28" tall MT drag radials, with off the shelf yank ss4000 has put me to a 1.28 60ft at 3000 raceweight...+350ft da 520rwhp 440rwtq...
Also i tried the 1" spohn rear sway bar and it was junk, pony up and get a rear drag bar ~$400 night and day difference...
Chris
but the 4L60E trans gearing, with 4.10s out back on 28" tall MT drag radials, with off the shelf yank ss4000 has put me to a 1.28 60ft at 3000 raceweight...+350ft da 520rwhp 440rwtq...
Also i tried the 1" spohn rear sway bar and it was junk, pony up and get a rear drag bar ~$400 night and day difference...
Chris