mrstepheneades

I got all the interior out off my twin turbo ta and starting on my cage I received from mwc. It's a 10pt chromoly. Just starting a picture thread on it for reference info for others and I'm sure I will have questions myself along the way.

First question I have. I know nhra rules say tig entire cage. That's no problem. But where the bars touch the floor plates, can that be mig? If it's something that is in question I'll just tig. Not like I know any chassis inspectors.

I'll post a bunch of progress pictures tomorrow when I get to a computer.

Zmg00camaross

iTrader: (11)

In to watch. I thought the plates can be mig just not any tube.

mrstepheneades

I heard lots of things including that it depends on inspector. I did mig weld the floor plates. I've only got the main hoop and the rear bars on so far.

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

I tig'd all of mine, even the floor plates. Pretty shitty, but it looks great. IIRC I found out that you can mig the floor plates. I know alot of people also tack the bars into place with a mig.

mrstepheneades

mrstepheneades

Well I tacked bars so they will stay in place. I tacked them in easy accessible places so I can cut the tacks off and tig later.

mrstepheneades

The bars were suppose to go to the speaker holes or that's how I ordered it. But im not hard to get along with so I just said screw it and used the original style bars they sent lol. Still looks fine.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

The rear bars placed where you have them is by far the best. Going through the speaker hole places the tube over the inner wheel well where there is very little strength(or safety).


The floor plates are fine to be MIG welded, chromoly tubes are supposed to be TIG welded at any point.


Whats up with that big gaping hole in the tunnel over the torque arm?

mrstepheneades

Put my 9" rear in and the Huge Spohn Pro Series torque arm and it was hitting the tunnel so much it looked like I put a 3" lift kit on the rear of the car because the suspension wouldn't settle. So I cut it out enough so it would move. Im going to sheet metal the area closed. Just box in around the area.

mrstepheneades

Got the gaping hole closed up and boxed in so the torque arm can still move up in there. Just pieced it since its gonna be under the carpet. Painted black after this also.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Safety First!
Anymore progress on the cage?

mrstepheneades

Of coarse lol. Little bit more accomplished this weekend. Just haven't had much time lately.

mrstepheneades

The bar on the driver side im having trouble getting just right. ssvert99, do I need to cut the dash support a little for the bar clearance? Or should it go in front of it fine and im just not holding my mouth right lol?

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

The driver side a-pillar bar is sunk into the bulkhead approximately 1/2 the diameter of the tube. Just use a body saw or cut-off wheel to clearance it as needed. This is required as the body is not the same on both sides.

mrstepheneades

Thanks man. I already hammered it a little but realized it probably needed to be cut.

mrstepheneades

More cage progress. Put my seat in to check things. Still a few more bars to put in.

RENE'S RAGE

iTrader: (96)

Looking good!

mrstepheneades

Thanks man. Not a lot of run in these cars once you get a cage in there haha.

mrstepheneades

Door bar intersection

high impact

iTrader: (5)

I will be installing a cage this winter and have been seriously considering this exact cage. A local buddy of mine installed the same cage and the only thing I don't like are the way those front bars come down off the hoop and don't run even along the windshield pillar. I love everything else about this kit.

Looking really good!