Mini Tubbing
New photos, came out jacked up OH WELL New pics
1. Photo under the car still retaining the stock gas tank mounting brackets.
2. Photo showing the bolt and washer location for relocated LCA.
3. Photo of relocated LCA with new bolt, it's a 6.5" 1/2 dia bolt.
4. Photo of panhard bracket boxed in and side of frame, nice and flush all the way across.
5. Drivers side photo of trunk area.
6. T-top hump removed.
7.Drivers side view of trunk area.
8.Center of trunk area.
9. Passenger side view of body and panhard bracket.
10. Rear view of drivers side body
1. Photo under the car still retaining the stock gas tank mounting brackets.
2. Photo showing the bolt and washer location for relocated LCA.
3. Photo of relocated LCA with new bolt, it's a 6.5" 1/2 dia bolt.
4. Photo of panhard bracket boxed in and side of frame, nice and flush all the way across.
5. Drivers side photo of trunk area.
6. T-top hump removed.
7.Drivers side view of trunk area.
8.Center of trunk area.
9. Passenger side view of body and panhard bracket.
10. Rear view of drivers side body
Last edited by RAGENZ28; Dec 9, 2007 at 09:31 PM.
Wow, really gutting that thing.
Were you keeping the back seat? I was thinking of putting a flat plate over the passenger side rear seat area to make room for a muffler there under the car. Just thought I'd mention it.
Were you keeping the back seat? I was thinking of putting a flat plate over the passenger side rear seat area to make room for a muffler there under the car. Just thought I'd mention it.
Damn, never realized that there was that much metal on an F-body you could remove. My mustang is soo damn simple its not funny. Whats your time line for getting that hotrod done>
Um it isn't a time issue it is a money one LOL.
If I had all of the money to start with I would have had the tubs in it and put a cage and subframes in about two weeks.
I probably have about 35 hours in the car, but when you have an angle grinder vs a plasma cutter it takes a lot longer.
Today I cut out the t-top hump, which is fast like 5 minutes tops and then cut out the rest of the factory tubs and the side of the body, that all together took about 2 hours, not to cut but I like to measure and look at stuff before I cut it and take my time on that kind of stuff.
I am getting pretty handy with an angle grinder and those 1/16th cutting disks
I have the tubs coming next week, I already ordered them, so I am hoping to have it all back together by next weekend.
Still have to wait on the new rear end and rims and tires.
I have to put in the tubs, make a small frame for the sides of the trunk out of 1/2 tubing to mount the flooring on so it is nice and sturdy, weld a piece to cover the t-top hump cutout.
I am probably going to notch the driveshaft tunnel some, but I have to really look at it I want to keep it as stock looking as possible, then once I get the rear end i just have to position and weld on the brackets.
I am also going to cut and remount the filler tube on the stock tank and also notch that for some clearance above the rear end.
Then once I ditch the stock tank and fuel system all I have to do is cut off what's left of the factory gas tank bracket.
Believe it or not the hardest part was removing the stupid gasket around the gas tank filler tube.
If I had all of the money to start with I would have had the tubs in it and put a cage and subframes in about two weeks.
I probably have about 35 hours in the car, but when you have an angle grinder vs a plasma cutter it takes a lot longer.
Today I cut out the t-top hump, which is fast like 5 minutes tops and then cut out the rest of the factory tubs and the side of the body, that all together took about 2 hours, not to cut but I like to measure and look at stuff before I cut it and take my time on that kind of stuff.
I am getting pretty handy with an angle grinder and those 1/16th cutting disks
I have the tubs coming next week, I already ordered them, so I am hoping to have it all back together by next weekend.
Still have to wait on the new rear end and rims and tires.
I have to put in the tubs, make a small frame for the sides of the trunk out of 1/2 tubing to mount the flooring on so it is nice and sturdy, weld a piece to cover the t-top hump cutout.
I am probably going to notch the driveshaft tunnel some, but I have to really look at it I want to keep it as stock looking as possible, then once I get the rear end i just have to position and weld on the brackets.
I am also going to cut and remount the filler tube on the stock tank and also notch that for some clearance above the rear end.
Then once I ditch the stock tank and fuel system all I have to do is cut off what's left of the factory gas tank bracket.
Believe it or not the hardest part was removing the stupid gasket around the gas tank filler tube.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; Dec 9, 2007 at 11:44 PM.
Yes, I am still keeping the back seat. Whoever sits back there will be sitting next to a big *** wheel tub LOL.
I weighed the metal I cut off the body, the rest of the rear tubs and the t-top hump and the stuff you can see I cut out in this photo.
It weighed 38 pounds, the t-top hump alone was 18 pounds.
That brings the total weight removed to a grand total of 112 pounds.
It weighed 38 pounds, the t-top hump alone was 18 pounds.
That brings the total weight removed to a grand total of 112 pounds.
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Verdad Gallardo Put back in the rear trunk floor for the t-top hump and small piece that runs along the trunk total was 8 pounds I used heavier gauge 18 so the floor would still hold weight.
I am still 96 pounds lighter with maybe 10 pounds going back in, so looks like I'll be close to 85 pounds weight taken out once the tubs are all done.
I am still 96 pounds lighter with maybe 10 pounds going back in, so looks like I'll be close to 85 pounds weight taken out once the tubs are all done.
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you ment to say the person in the back seat will be sitting IN the wheel tub lol.
ok so now you took 110 lbs of the back of a front heavy car....hmmm.
sso after you work on the engine, are you going to move it back? that would be cool, i know what you need back there, saw some pictures of the sts mustang at the PRI show.....two turbos like that would work lol, you could even use them to fill in those tubs.
ok so now you took 110 lbs of the back of a front heavy car....hmmm.
sso after you work on the engine, are you going to move it back? that would be cool, i know what you need back there, saw some pictures of the sts mustang at the PRI show.....two turbos like that would work lol, you could even use them to fill in those tubs.
you ment to say the person in the back seat will be sitting IN the wheel tub lol.
ok so now you took 110 lbs of the back of a front heavy car....hmmm.
sso after you work on the engine, are you going to move it back? that would be cool, i know what you need back there, saw some pictures of the sts mustang at the PRI show.....two turbos like that would work lol, you could even use them to fill in those tubs.
ok so now you took 110 lbs of the back of a front heavy car....hmmm.
sso after you work on the engine, are you going to move it back? that would be cool, i know what you need back there, saw some pictures of the sts mustang at the PRI show.....two turbos like that would work lol, you could even use them to fill in those tubs.
No I won't move the engine back, If I ever go full blown on this car I will stretch the wheel base 10 or so inches on the front, so there won't be a need to move the engine back =)
I've taken more out than that though, I pulled both bumpers 40 pounds, power steering 10 pounds, carpet 34 pounds plus pulled 112 pounds out of it with the tub job, next I am going to look at how to lighten the factory seats, but I have taken about 200 pounds out of the car, I am still going to cut some metal off the front and from the fenders.
And the car isn't that front heavy it's like 53/47 last time I weighed it, and I can take a lot of weight off the front. My plans are pin on sunoco hood, drag brakes, k-member, a-arms, delete the power brakes and abs, plus remove a few other things, I have already taken out the heater/ac stuff in the car.
I am betting it is probably under 3000 easy by now.
Last edited by RAGENZ28; Dec 12, 2007 at 12:56 AM.
Finished the passenger side tub last night, making the pattern to fit it up again the body was easy, now getting the tub back in there and out for some final trimming was a bitch.
Tubs look "huge" they are just about as high as the rear seat, starting on the drivers side tub today, then I have to put two small pieces to finish the trunk floor and paint it and seal it up with some silicone.
Time to get on it
Tubs look "huge" they are just about as high as the rear seat, starting on the drivers side tub today, then I have to put two small pieces to finish the trunk floor and paint it and seal it up with some silicone.
Time to get on it
In the back I used a piece of 1/2 square tubing ran from the frame up at an angle to the body above the bumper cover holes and then I attached the back of the tub there, then on the front I ran another piece of 1/2 square tubing and the tubs attach to that down where the side of the seat is, then around the tub on the inside against the body I will silicone it.
I also tilted the tubs forward so the front is covered in one piece, and then it angles up to about 1" or so below the floor in the trunk, so the tub covers everything in one piece.
Then I traced out where the lower control arm goes and marked it then took out the tub and cut that piece off.
I just have to put in two pieces of the rear floor between the frame and body and then the trunk is done.
Then all i have left to do is cut a hole in the area behind the rear seat just in front of the slope back in the trunk and
I am doing to weld the filler tub and have it right there.
Look at the photos I make and you can see what I mean.
Quick question for you guys, I want ditch the stock gas tank. Is the metal right over the tank structural? Assuming I have all the stock metal in the car, can I safely remove the sheetmetal panel above the tank?
Also, do you guys have any links to running fuel cells in the far back hatch? There's all kinds of lines and crap aon top of the tank and I need some info on sorting them all out to the new fuel cell.
Also, do you guys have any links to running fuel cells in the far back hatch? There's all kinds of lines and crap aon top of the tank and I need some info on sorting them all out to the new fuel cell.
I have to weld in two more floor pieces that are easy to do and then modify the stock gas tank fill tube and move that then I have to cut the panhard rod and weld it back together after I shorten it to use for a temporary one to roll it around until I make my new rod/rod panhard rod.
Then I have to trim the factory plastic covers and throw those back in and then I done, then all i have to do later is get the rear end and rims and tires and put an anti roll bar on it then she's all finished.
Quick question for you guys, I want ditch the stock gas tank. Is the metal right over the tank structural? Assuming I have all the stock metal in the car, can I safely remove the sheetmetal panel above the tank?
Also, do you guys have any links to running fuel cells in the far back hatch? There's all kinds of lines and crap aon top of the tank and I need some info on sorting them all out to the new fuel cell.
Also, do you guys have any links to running fuel cells in the far back hatch? There's all kinds of lines and crap aon top of the tank and I need some info on sorting them all out to the new fuel cell.
I cut the t-top hump out of mine then welded a new piece of metal in so now the trunk is flat.
You could just put a cell right there.
Here is one that I thought was kind of cool, it is some what factory looking.
There are a lot of fuel cells you have to see which one you like.