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Old 07-21-2008, 09:56 PM
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Default roll bar question

I ordered a Wolfe 6-point bolt in bar.

My question is...how is it shipped? All in one piece? How do you get it in the car?
Old 07-21-2008, 11:16 PM
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Depends, but they couldn't ship it all together b/c I doubt you could get it in the car that way. I'm guessing main hoop and crossbar are one piece (but could be wrong here, then the 2 door bars and 2 back bars.

Derek
Old 07-22-2008, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
Depends, but they couldn't ship it all together b/c I doubt you could get it in the car that way. I'm guessing main hoop and crossbar are one piece (but could be wrong here, then the 2 door bars and 2 back bars.

Derek
Correct...bought mine used, but it comes apart in those basic 5 pieces.
Old 07-22-2008, 12:38 AM
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so how are the pieces secured together then?
Old 07-22-2008, 02:37 AM
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the pieces should have to be welded together still, the bolt in part is referring to how they mount to your car ( bolted )
Old 07-22-2008, 02:56 AM
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It comes truck freight in a big flat box. Everything is taped/padded, etc.
Old 07-22-2008, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by supersickss
the pieces should have to be welded together still, the bolt in part is referring to how they mount to your car ( bolted )
The door bars and rear bars are bolted to the main hoop also.
Old 07-22-2008, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by supersickss
the pieces should have to be welded together still, the bolt in part is referring to how they mount to your car ( bolted )
There's no welding required. The only part that would have to be welded, for a picky track, would be the rear bars to the main hoop. Everything on this kit is complete bolt in.
Old 07-22-2008, 09:41 AM
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You guys are crazzy putting those bolt in bars in your cars.If you roll over at 100+ that thing is going to wrap around you like a giant octapus
pay the money and get it done right this is your life we are talking about
Old 07-22-2008, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave J
You guys are crazzy putting those bolt in bars in your cars.If you roll over at 100+ that thing is going to wrap around you like a giant octapus
pay the money and get it done right this is your life we are talking about
You can't argue with cheap asses.
Old 07-22-2008, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave J
You guys are crazzy putting those bolt in bars in your cars.If you roll over at 100+ that thing is going to wrap around you like a giant octapus
pay the money and get it done right this is your life we are talking about
There is little, if any, difference in strength between the bolted joints in the tubing and having a continuous tube. The tubes are attached to the main hoop by sliding them over a smaller diameter tube which is welded to the hoop. A large bolt is then placed through to keep it from coming apart. You would bend the rest of the tubing before you would bend the joint, which is basically double-walled. If there was any doubt in my mind that it was unsafe, it would have never been placed in the car.
Old 07-22-2008, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by b00sted
You can't argue with cheap asses.
The bolt-in cages are more expensive.
Old 07-22-2008, 01:45 PM
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I agree, there's alot of thought put into the way the kit mounts in the car. The only real disadvantage to weld-in is the weight of the bolts.... and ditto on having to weld the rear bars to the main hoop for a picky track.

It's a good kit!
Old 07-22-2008, 02:54 PM
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so how do the rear bars mount to the hoop? Do they not even connect without welding? That doesn't make any sense.
Old 07-22-2008, 04:08 PM
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If I remember correctly, everything bolts together. The main hoop w/ the crossbar welded in the middle of it is one piece with 2 small tubes coming off of the top of the hoop that the rear 2 bars slide over and bolt to. Mine has a fixed pass. door bar currently, and a swing-out on the driver side. I plan on installing a swing-out on the pass side as well eventually (I think this can be done). Just make sure when you install it that you get it all together (even the swingout(s) where they're going to go) and start drilling. We drilled the holes right thru the mounting pads and didn't take the bar back out or apart to drill. If you have any other Qs or need pics I can post some later tonight/tomorrow.
Old 07-22-2008, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
so how do the rear bars mount to the hoop? Do they not even connect without welding? That doesn't make any sense.
jeff do you read the responses to your question at all? geeez.

there is about one inch of bar that comes off the hoop to connect to the rear bars. the rear bar slides over about 1/2 of that one inch and then bolted. ill get pics in a minute. just pm me these questions on sacfbodyz, i have done all of this
Old 07-22-2008, 09:36 PM
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I don't mean to jack the thread, but this wolfe bolt in bar, how much does it weigh? compare to a chromoly one?
Old 07-22-2008, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
I don't mean to jack the thread, but this wolfe bolt in bar, how much does it weigh? compare to a chromoly one?
Apples to apples c/m is roughyl 50% less than m/s
Old 07-22-2008, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BOLO
I don't mean to jack the thread, but this wolfe bolt in bar, how much does it weigh? compare to a chromoly one?

Mild is 80-85, and chromoly is 60-65.. So 20 pounds less for chromoly. It says weights on there site.


Chris
Old 07-22-2008, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 98catfish
Apples to apples c/m is roughyl 50% less than m/s

I heard this is true based on strength.(thats what matters to us anyway) Since c/m is stronger then mild steel and lighter. So they assume the amount of c/m needed to be as strong as ms is about 50% of the weight of ms.

But if you are using a similiar size of tubing and thickness i think the weight savings is only about 25%. But now you have a piece that is 25% lighter but stronger then mild steel.

Some pieces are made with thinner pieces of c/m so more weight can be saved.

Chris



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