TVS 2300 on built LS3 with stroker crank - Any ideas on how much boost we'll see?
09-13-2009, 08:57 AM
#207
Hopefully you will have better results than what we have seen on this Hummer. We're looking at running a different belt configuration on this Hummer, as we have had nothing but problems with it. Constant belt slippage problems, and we've had to have so much belt tension that the water pump pulley has come off three times. This last time the pulley was 100% tig welded on, and it ripped it off above the weld. Bob
09-13-2009, 01:54 PM
#208
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09-18-2009, 07:34 AM
#210
We have the belt very tight to keep slippage down, although we still see belt slippage. We also are using the Innovators West overdrive crank pulley arrangement that we got through Left Coast 32. I feel that the water pump pulley broke off because of the excessive belt tension that we are having to use. This truck is a beast from off idle, much, much faster than my Dodge Cummins Turbo is with the boost jacked up to 32 psi! Bob
09-19-2009, 09:30 PM
#211
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I looked into the Evans pumps, it looks like you can only use their anti freeze which i don't want to have to do for a truck that may be headed overseas.
We have the belt very tight to keep slippage down, although we still see belt slippage. We also are using the Innovators West overdrive crank pulley arrangement that we got through Left Coast 32. I feel that the water pump pulley broke off because of the excessive belt tension that we are having to use. This truck is a beast from off idle, much, much faster than my Dodge Cummins Turbo is with the boost jacked up to 32 psi! Bob
We have the belt very tight to keep slippage down, although we still see belt slippage. We also are using the Innovators West overdrive crank pulley arrangement that we got through Left Coast 32. I feel that the water pump pulley broke off because of the excessive belt tension that we are having to use. This truck is a beast from off idle, much, much faster than my Dodge Cummins Turbo is with the boost jacked up to 32 psi! Bob
09-20-2009, 07:47 AM
#212
I don't see any reason that using their water pump would req' special antifreeze. There is too much belt pressure on the water pump pulley and if staying stock, I would machine a plate to reinforce the stock one. The Evans is thicker but further from the belt area to the mounting so I expect time will tell if its strong enough.
09-22-2009, 11:26 AM
#213
How will the Eaton 2300 TVS compare to the 2.3L Whipple in boost PSI and heat production ? The reason I'm asking is that the NHRA has it out for Whipple and requires we change to a "Factory" high helix A.K.A Eaton supercharger. Belt slippage won't be an issue as I built a cog pulley set-up.
09-23-2009, 05:21 AM
#214
How will the Eaton 2300 TVS compare to the 2.3L Whipple in boost PSI and heat production ? The reason I'm asking is that the NHRA has it out for Whipple and requires we change to a "Factory" high helix A.K.A Eaton supercharger. Belt slippage won't be an issue as I built a cog pulley set-up.
09-23-2009, 09:21 AM
#215
Thanks Bob for the reply. With the debate over the max potential I was looking for some real world experience between the 2 styles. The Magnason is an "Air Mover" vs. a compressor like the Whipple which should build less heat, but may not have the same boost PSI potential. I understand the engine displacement etc. will affect the max boost, but has anyone seen boost in the 20 PSI or higher with an Eaton style TVS or does leakage, rotor deflection,etc limit you to the 10-15 PSI range?
09-25-2009, 05:36 AM
#216
Thanks Bob for the reply. With the debate over the max potential I was looking for some real world experience between the 2 styles. The Magnason is an "Air Mover" vs. a compressor like the Whipple which should build less heat, but may not have the same boost PSI potential. I understand the engine displacement etc. will affect the max boost, but has anyone seen boost in the 20 PSI or higher with an Eaton style TVS or does leakage, rotor deflection,etc limit you to the 10-15 PSI range?
hellbents10 might be able to answer your questions for you. Bob
09-25-2009, 12:10 PM
#218
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If you're running that much tension on the belt and it's still slipping it might be worth going to a tension with less tension and just spinning it slower. If you have to work the blower that hard that it's slipping the belt with 8 ribs and that much tension on it that just tells you that it's out of it's element. You could go with a 10 rib like the guy just did on performancetrucks.net, but either way your whole idea with the build of reliability is just going out with the truck. It's a good thing you didn't ship it out already. I'm suprised you haven't pulled that thing off there yet.
09-25-2009, 12:55 PM
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Hopefully you will have better results than what we have seen on this Hummer. We're looking at running a different belt configuration on this Hummer, as we have had nothing but problems with it. Constant belt slippage problems, and we've had to have so much belt tension that the water pump pulley has come off three times. This last time the pulley was 100% tig welded on, and it ripped it off above the weld. Bob
09-25-2009, 01:17 PM
#220
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I agree, way to much belt pressure, and we still have belt slippage. I feel that to really take care of the problem with a serpentine belt, the blower needs to be on it's own belt all by itself and with designed with better belt wrap. If this could be done we would have less belt slippage and stress on the other items would be eliminated. Cartec's Flip Drive for the Corvette does the above and we have successfully used it on an eight rib drive Z06. Bob
Please keep us informed as too what happens, especially if you either solve the problems or abandon it. You and your shop's reputation proceeds you, and i don't think i am alone in being absolutely shocked that you hit a problem that has you stumped. I have seen some of the work you have done, building custom pieces and parts, modifying the body work and frame of cars to build one off setups, etc. Perhaps that is why something like "belt slip" stumping you has got my and other member's attention, as opposed to the 23000 other threads asking about belt slippage.
Best of luck to you Bob.
If you're running that much tension on the belt and it's still slipping it might be worth going to a tension with less tension and just spinning it slower. If you have to work the blower that hard that it's slipping the belt with 8 ribs and that much tension on it that just tells you that it's out of it's element. You could go with a 10 rib like the guy just did on performancetrucks.net, but either way your whole idea with the build of reliability is just going out with the truck. It's a good thing you didn't ship it out already. I'm suprised you haven't pulled that thing off there yet.
Then again, i can understand looking at this as a personal challenge and being dedicated to solving the problem.
I say you try the best you can. First check out the blower, make sure it isnt fucked up. If it is ok, sit down with some of your fabricators and see if you can draw up an individual belt drive for the blower alone. If that wont work (wont fit, for example), try a cog drive. If that fails i say **** it, pull the maggie off and send it back. Then slap a big *** procharger on there and call it a day.