LSX alternator relocation kit
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 2
From: Homestead, FL
Awesome piece for sure! Installed mine this weekend. Fitment was great, very sturdy and you can adjust the belt tension by hand. Thanks guys for such a great product!
Out with the old system that I could never get the belt to fit right:
In with the new!
Out with the old system that I could never get the belt to fit right:
In with the new!
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, Fl
i am thinking about buying one of these as mine is not working with my 145amp alt. on your website, you say 145 AMP LS1 truck alternator. Note: valve cover oil filler tube will need to be modified.
can you explain a little more before i order?
can you explain a little more before i order?
Last edited by ls1fan00; May 25, 2012 at 03:36 PM.
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FormerVendor
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 2
From: Homestead, FL
A guy is using a 145 AMP alternator.
Here is the link.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ion-kit-4.html
Few more questions:
1:Will this clear a SS hood?
2:I will be running a 10% ATI pulley how can I find out what size belt I need?
3: How do you set the belt if this is replacing the belt tensioner?
Thanks sorry for all the questions.
1:Will this clear a SS hood?
2:I will be running a 10% ATI pulley how can I find out what size belt I need?
3: How do you set the belt if this is replacing the belt tensioner?
Thanks sorry for all the questions.
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,765
Likes: 2
From: Homestead, FL
Here is a link to Josh Forster's 200 + MPH Camaro with a flat hood, it clears.
http://www.lsxtv.com/features/car-fe...e-mile-at-cms/
Here is a link with pic's that show the rod end adjusting system that tightens the belt.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ion-kit-4.html
Order it without the belt if you have a under drive pulley.
We leave the belt choice up to the customer when they are running aftermarket under drive pulley's.
There are so many under drive systems out there it is hard for us to keep a belt in stock for everyone.
http://www.lsxtv.com/features/car-fe...e-mile-at-cms/
Here is a link with pic's that show the rod end adjusting system that tightens the belt.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ion-kit-4.html
Order it without the belt if you have a under drive pulley.
We leave the belt choice up to the customer when they are running aftermarket under drive pulley's.
There are so many under drive systems out there it is hard for us to keep a belt in stock for everyone.
Last edited by ModularTurbo; May 29, 2012 at 12:43 PM.
Modular Turbo:
Hey, I have your alt bracket and love it, however I made a big improvement on it that I think you guys could add to the product.
I added an idler pulley to the bottom bolt hole on the bracket. I used the pulley from the old stock alt bracket, and the spacing worked out so there is no interference with the other bolt head. the reason I did this was because there was too much belt unsupported, and on the dyno, and long pulls, the belt would shake around and touch my thermostat housing. Not a big deal but I just wanted to tighten it up a bit.
For the spacer for the idler, I cut off the tab on the factory bracket where the idler normally bolts to. I then ground down the back of that piece to make it flat. After measuring a few times, I just cut the back of the tab until the pulley lined up with the belt, and still had good clearance between the other bolt head.
If you guys want, I can take a couple pics.
Hey, I have your alt bracket and love it, however I made a big improvement on it that I think you guys could add to the product.
I added an idler pulley to the bottom bolt hole on the bracket. I used the pulley from the old stock alt bracket, and the spacing worked out so there is no interference with the other bolt head. the reason I did this was because there was too much belt unsupported, and on the dyno, and long pulls, the belt would shake around and touch my thermostat housing. Not a big deal but I just wanted to tighten it up a bit.
For the spacer for the idler, I cut off the tab on the factory bracket where the idler normally bolts to. I then ground down the back of that piece to make it flat. After measuring a few times, I just cut the back of the tab until the pulley lined up with the belt, and still had good clearance between the other bolt head.
If you guys want, I can take a couple pics.
Here is a link to Josh Forster's 200 + MPH Camaro with a flat hood, it clears.
http://www.lsxtv.com/features/josh-f...he-mojave-mile
Here is a link with pic's that show the rod end adjusting system that tightens the belt.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ion-kit-4.html
Order it without the belt if you have a under drive pulley.
We leave the belt choice up to the customer when they are running aftermarket under drive pulley's.
There are so many under drive systems out there it is hard for us to keep a belt in stock for everyone.
http://www.lsxtv.com/features/josh-f...he-mojave-mile
Here is a link with pic's that show the rod end adjusting system that tightens the belt.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ion-kit-4.html
Order it without the belt if you have a under drive pulley.
We leave the belt choice up to the customer when they are running aftermarket under drive pulley's.
There are so many under drive systems out there it is hard for us to keep a belt in stock for everyone.
^^^ Oh hey! Thats me!
Yeah the reason I made the idler was because of those mile long runs. Its really a lot of stress on that serpentine belt. I've got to say though, I love the bracket! Saved me a lot of headache.
Anyone have any ideas for how to get this bracket to work with a CTS-V crank pulley and waterpump? Mine keeps throwing the belt on start up. Everything worked perfect before I switched to a smaller crank pulley to make room for a bigger sway bar.
