MY Real Street 275 build
#361
I also have another dilemma.
I've been contemplating beefing my short block up or selling it all together for a 6 bolt block.
My iron block is currently filled solid. I feel it can handle a good bit of power in its current form.
What I would do if I kept it is have the block and heads modified for half inch studs and o ring the block.
I feel I could safely make 1400 HP with that set up. Far cry from an aftermarket block though.
If I sold it, I'd be willing to have those two upgrades performed after purchase to the buyer. Or they can buy it as is.
If I went aftermarket it's getting CP coated pistons, Lunati 6.300" pro mod rods and an aftermarket 3" stroke crank. 4.070 bore to work better with my heads.
I really want to make this engine smaller, but I'm not messing with what I have already. It's either getting used or sold to fund a new engine.
I may not even go aftermarket, but I want to build a smaller motor.
I've been contemplating beefing my short block up or selling it all together for a 6 bolt block.
My iron block is currently filled solid. I feel it can handle a good bit of power in its current form.
What I would do if I kept it is have the block and heads modified for half inch studs and o ring the block.
I feel I could safely make 1400 HP with that set up. Far cry from an aftermarket block though.
If I sold it, I'd be willing to have those two upgrades performed after purchase to the buyer. Or they can buy it as is.
If I went aftermarket it's getting CP coated pistons, Lunati 6.300" pro mod rods and an aftermarket 3" stroke crank. 4.070 bore to work better with my heads.
I really want to make this engine smaller, but I'm not messing with what I have already. It's either getting used or sold to fund a new engine.
I may not even go aftermarket, but I want to build a smaller motor.
#364
TECH Fanatic
We're not technically going to start producing turbo kits and intercoolers. We just like saving money, showing off our abilities and making things the way we want.
This Lt1 turbo kit is really nice. Wait till you guys see what we do with mine.
Forward mounted turbo Ttf!
The 5.3 will be put in a formerly Lt1 powered 4th gen f body. 3300-3400# rw most likely.
Hoping for February/March to be on the track.
This Lt1 turbo kit is really nice. Wait till you guys see what we do with mine.
Forward mounted turbo Ttf!
The 5.3 will be put in a formerly Lt1 powered 4th gen f body. 3300-3400# rw most likely.
Hoping for February/March to be on the track.
Looks wicked like that.
#366
Efficiency. Staying in the compressors highest efficiency islands as long as possible throughout the entire operating range.
The larger the engine the more air mass it's going to move in N/A form.
Because of this, it's going to reach a higher lbs/min at a lower pressure ratio. Because of that, it's going to put it in a lower % efficiency island at a lower pressure ratio.
Take a look:
As pressure ratio increases in the lbs/min regions I will be in with my combo (90+) the efficiency islands get wider.
The only way I can reach those islands, at that pressure ratio at that lbs/min is to lower the cubic inches and the amount of air mass the engine moves in N/A form. This will keep me in those islands for a much longer period of RPM throughout the operating range.
Larger engine will be pushed off the right of the map much quicker at a much lower pressure ratio.
370. The engine I've proposed(3" stroke, 4.070" bore) is 312 cubic inches.
That's the way I want to do it. We'll see what happens.
Well, when I realized I could build the A2W intercooler, charge piping and reservoir tanks for the same cost as buying a pre-fabricated I/C by itself I was all for it.
I can also sell my brand new Mezeire electric water pump as well since my Rule reservoir pump will take its place. So I get 400-500 bucks in my pocket because of that.
If I did 1/2" head studs I wouldn't be selling my engine. I'd just have the machine work done to allow it to utilize 1/2" studs.
What I'm contemplating is selling this entire short block with the rotating assembly and all and buying another iron block, filling it solid, 1/2" studs, .030" over and putting a 3" crank in it with custom CP pistons and Lunati Pro Mod rods.
After looking at it some more I just can't afford an aftermarket block right now AND changing the rotating assembly.
I may just sell the rotating assembly I have now and do the engine with the 3" stroke and 4.030" bore I have now.
I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to this stuff.
The larger the engine the more air mass it's going to move in N/A form.
Because of this, it's going to reach a higher lbs/min at a lower pressure ratio. Because of that, it's going to put it in a lower % efficiency island at a lower pressure ratio.
Take a look:
As pressure ratio increases in the lbs/min regions I will be in with my combo (90+) the efficiency islands get wider.
The only way I can reach those islands, at that pressure ratio at that lbs/min is to lower the cubic inches and the amount of air mass the engine moves in N/A form. This will keep me in those islands for a much longer period of RPM throughout the operating range.
Larger engine will be pushed off the right of the map much quicker at a much lower pressure ratio.
370. The engine I've proposed(3" stroke, 4.070" bore) is 312 cubic inches.
I can also sell my brand new Mezeire electric water pump as well since my Rule reservoir pump will take its place. So I get 400-500 bucks in my pocket because of that.
If I did 1/2" head studs I wouldn't be selling my engine. I'd just have the machine work done to allow it to utilize 1/2" studs.
What I'm contemplating is selling this entire short block with the rotating assembly and all and buying another iron block, filling it solid, 1/2" studs, .030" over and putting a 3" crank in it with custom CP pistons and Lunati Pro Mod rods.
After looking at it some more I just can't afford an aftermarket block right now AND changing the rotating assembly.
I may just sell the rotating assembly I have now and do the engine with the 3" stroke and 4.030" bore I have now.
I'm my own worst enemy when it comes to this stuff.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; 11-27-2013 at 11:59 AM.
#370
TECH Enthusiast
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I feel your pain Martin.
I have 3 sets of heads 4 intakes, 3 blocks, 2 cams 3 sets of lifters, 2 cars, 2 transmissions and a bunch of other stuff.
Oh ya nothing running or driveable.
I have 3 sets of heads 4 intakes, 3 blocks, 2 cams 3 sets of lifters, 2 cars, 2 transmissions and a bunch of other stuff.
Oh ya nothing running or driveable.
#372
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Waterford, MI
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Man, this is an extremly nice build, very inspiring and also great coverage on updates.. great work and me being 22 makes me feel good to know that people our age are actually attempting to do these builds rather than paying someone 20 grand.. ill be starting mine pretty soon here in a third gen and really like the looks of your cage, but i wont be going that fast maybe mid 10's if im lucky so the 25.5 cert isnt quite nessecary.. BUT killer job and ill likely be seeing you on a cam in the next couple months, keep it coming.
#374
On The Tree
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Waterford, MI
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If directed towards me, I have some previous experience with welding, by no means a pro.. but will also be getting assistance with design and build of my step dad who has been welding forever lol so the car will spend a few weeks out there.. my goal is to learn how to do the basics and do the chassis build under supervision.. but so far ive built the entire car basically bymyself and has turned out pretty good i guess.
deffinetly not comfertable enough to just jump in and build a cage, when it comes to safety its no joke.. but ill be fabbing up the turbo kit myself as that isnt going to kill me if i screw something up lol
deffinetly not comfertable enough to just jump in and build a cage, when it comes to safety its no joke.. but ill be fabbing up the turbo kit myself as that isnt going to kill me if i screw something up lol
#375
Thanks guys.
I am extremely lucky and blessed to work at Tick Performance. We all treat each other and our cars like our own and the guys here have put a lot of their own blood, seat and tears into MY car.
Without them this would of never been able to take place.
I am extremely lucky and blessed to work at Tick Performance. We all treat each other and our cars like our own and the guys here have put a lot of their own blood, seat and tears into MY car.
Without them this would of never been able to take place.
#376
On The Tree
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I would jump on an opprotunity to work in a place like that without second guessing it. Its always awesome when you can make a living doing something you love doing and really enjoy the people you work with.. sounds like a great group. If i was more local I would love to swing by and check it out, bit of a hike to just swing by though.. your thread is very well written and gives the effect of almost being along side the entire build.. going to keep my eye on this one for sure.. good luck and hope you can make some progress pretty soon
#377
10 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Don't let Martin fool you, he's just a glorified secretary
I think you honestly just need to keep it simple and not try to get too far outside of the box when lining out your combo. I'm not saying throw together some JY stuff or mix matched parts by any means. But lets get real. Look at John (TurboTbirds) car. its was a 23* headed 421 SBC with an out of the box s475 that was going 5.2's on a 275 radial and a manual boost controller made from home depot parts. Your 370 with the S476r will most definately out power that combo any day of the week. I know efficiency maps and your overall setup is a factor especially when it comes to back pressure and things of that nature, but i dont think it will leave enough on the table to warrant a completely new engine build. Stick with your original plan and work your magic with the cam to do what you need the car to do. Just my .02
I think you honestly just need to keep it simple and not try to get too far outside of the box when lining out your combo. I'm not saying throw together some JY stuff or mix matched parts by any means. But lets get real. Look at John (TurboTbirds) car. its was a 23* headed 421 SBC with an out of the box s475 that was going 5.2's on a 275 radial and a manual boost controller made from home depot parts. Your 370 with the S476r will most definately out power that combo any day of the week. I know efficiency maps and your overall setup is a factor especially when it comes to back pressure and things of that nature, but i dont think it will leave enough on the table to warrant a completely new engine build. Stick with your original plan and work your magic with the cam to do what you need the car to do. Just my .02
#378
TECH Fanatic
Don't let Martin fool you, he's just a glorified secretary
I think you honestly just need to keep it simple and not try to get too far outside of the box when lining out your combo. I'm not saying throw together some JY stuff or mix matched parts by any means. But lets get real. Look at John (TurboTbirds) car. its was a 23* headed 421 SBC with an out of the box s475 that was going 5.2's on a 275 radial and a manual boost controller made from home depot parts. Your 370 with the S476r will most definately out power that combo any day of the week. I know efficiency maps and your overall setup is a factor especially when it comes to back pressure and things of that nature, but i dont think it will leave enough on the table to warrant a completely new engine build. Stick with your original plan and work your magic with the cam to do what you need the car to do. Just my .02
I think you honestly just need to keep it simple and not try to get too far outside of the box when lining out your combo. I'm not saying throw together some JY stuff or mix matched parts by any means. But lets get real. Look at John (TurboTbirds) car. its was a 23* headed 421 SBC with an out of the box s475 that was going 5.2's on a 275 radial and a manual boost controller made from home depot parts. Your 370 with the S476r will most definately out power that combo any day of the week. I know efficiency maps and your overall setup is a factor especially when it comes to back pressure and things of that nature, but i dont think it will leave enough on the table to warrant a completely new engine build. Stick with your original plan and work your magic with the cam to do what you need the car to do. Just my .02
#379
Don't let Martin fool you, he's just a glorified secretary
I think you honestly just need to keep it simple and not try to get too far outside of the box when lining out your combo. I'm not saying throw together some JY stuff or mix matched parts by any means. But lets get real. Look at John (TurboTbirds) car. its was a 23* headed 421 SBC with an out of the box s475 that was going 5.2's on a 275 radial and a manual boost controller made from home depot parts. Your 370 with the S476r will most definately out power that combo any day of the week. I know efficiency maps and your overall setup is a factor especially when it comes to back pressure and things of that nature, but i dont think it will leave enough on the table to warrant a completely new engine build. Stick with your original plan and work your magic with the cam to do what you need the car to do. Just my .02
I think you honestly just need to keep it simple and not try to get too far outside of the box when lining out your combo. I'm not saying throw together some JY stuff or mix matched parts by any means. But lets get real. Look at John (TurboTbirds) car. its was a 23* headed 421 SBC with an out of the box s475 that was going 5.2's on a 275 radial and a manual boost controller made from home depot parts. Your 370 with the S476r will most definately out power that combo any day of the week. I know efficiency maps and your overall setup is a factor especially when it comes to back pressure and things of that nature, but i dont think it will leave enough on the table to warrant a completely new engine build. Stick with your original plan and work your magic with the cam to do what you need the car to do. Just my .02
I'm going to do the 1/2" studs for now. I'm also going to go with aftermarket rocker arms 3/8" stud mounted in a 1.8 ratio to get more lift out of the cam and area under the lift curve.
Just my 2 cents but I think Martin, like most of us, is to broke to build a car and then have to backtrack and change a bunch of stuff. Especially in the competition world which I can only imagine will be a bottomless pit of expenses in itself lol. But we cant help but love this horsepower thing. Even if it does suck us all dry lol.