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An open 4" tube could have a rating of 1500hp...but it wont cool for ****
And a motor making 1500hp at 10psi vs 40psi boost...will have vastly different cooling requirements, nevermind all the other external variables relating to the cooler.
It's good to see he will test for pre-core temps...even if the excercise is largely futile and a waste of money, other than for gaining the data
Isn't the whole point of being a vendor providing details on parts you sell?
And how far does that go? Should you be informed of who does the machining? which employee welded which IC? who machines the end caps? where the billet was bought from to turn into the end caps?
There's a line where you cross over from a detail, to proprietary information. Again. I do not produce this product. If you want that answer. Call Blake.
Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
So next to no boost on an efficient setup and IAT's are already up 50* by the 1/8th? So on 20+ lbs I'm guessing its going to be 100+ degree rise by the 1/8th.
I noticed the 1500hp rating is no longer on the LJMS website...
LOL nice try at the conspiracy theory. I don't know that the 1500 hp capable unit ever actually had the number 1500 in the description. But Since you pointed that out.... Thanks.
One would hope it wouldn't gain that much. But it all depends.
And how far does that go? Should you be informed of who does the machining? which employee welded which IC? who machines the end caps? where the billet was bought from to turn into the end caps?
There's a line where you cross over from a detail, to proprietary information. Again. I do not produce this product. If you want that answer. Call Blake.
LOL nice try at the conspiracy theory. I don't know that the 1500 hp capable unit ever actually had the number 1500 in the description. But Since you pointed that out.... Thanks.
One would hope it wouldn't gain that much. But it all depends.
When buying an intercooler, asking who makes the intercooler core is a pretty basic question. Especially when the part is well over $1000 one would expect it to be a quality core. Other vendors with much cheaper intercoolers tell you exactly what core they use.
Its not a conspiracy, its actually embarrassing how badly this intercooler performs. We have 8-9 second cars with a cheap air to air running 20+ psi that don't gain 50* in a 1/4 mile. But people are supposed to ignore the temps this fancy iced down air to water gains more then that in the 1/8th on low boost. Not exactly rocket science to predict its going to gain even more temp over a longer distance with more boost.
When buying an intercooler, asking who makes the intercooler core is a pretty basic question. Especially when the part is well over $1000 one would expect it to be a quality core. Other vendors with much cheaper intercoolers tell you exactly what core they use.
Its not a conspiracy, its actually embarrassing how badly this intercooler performs. We have 8-9 second cars with a cheap air to air running 20+ psi that don't gain 50* in a 1/4 mile. But people are supposed to ignore the temps this fancy iced down air to water gains more then that in the 1/8th on low boost. Not exactly rocket science to predict its going to gain even more temp over a longer distance with more boost.
Im not embarrassed about how it performs at all. I have way more people who are happy with the product than ones who are dissappointed in it. At least as far as the ones who actually came to me and gave feedback.
I am also following this. I know of a guy, and LOTS of you on here know him as well, who just picked up the "2000 HP" rated 417 I/C. I made sure he was aware of this info. He is going to move forward and hopefully, this gets resolved. Obviously, the "Crusty Nova" had this style I/C working. I originally "thought" it might be a core change issue, but without thermocouple data of inlet and outlet water temps, everything is just a guess.
Isn't the whole point of being a vendor providing details on parts you sell?So next to no boost on an efficient setup and IAT's are already up 50* by the 1/8th? So on 20+ lbs I'm guessing its going to be 100+ degree rise by the 1/8th.I noticed the 1500hp rating is no longer on the LJMS website...
Isn't the whole point of being a vendor providing details on parts you sell?So next to no boost on an efficient setup and IAT's are already up 50* by the 1/8th? So on 20+ lbs I'm guessing its going to be 100+ degree rise by the 1/8th.I noticed the 1500hp rating is no longer on the LJMS website...
An open 4" tube could have a rating of 1500hp...but it wont cool for ****
And a motor making 1500hp at 10psi vs 40psi boost...will have vastly different cooling requirements, nevermind all the other external variables relating to the cooler.
It's good to see he will test for pre-core temps...even if the excercise is largely futile and a waste of money, other than for gaining the data
If I only had a $ (or €) for every time you have said that! you would have thought everyone would know this fundermental with the number of times it's been said!
It's interesting what you say about different cooling requirements. Has anyone got any data for BTU or KJ of heat that is added for say 1000bhp worth of air at 15, 30, 45 and say 60psi? It would be interesting to see the values.
It's also interesting when you see intercooler she rated in BHP. Garrett sells them rated so, but is not clear if that's flow (which will be different with pressure) or cooling capacity (which will be different with pressure). Yet there 1000bhp core (12x24x4.5) is significantly larger than say a procharger race core for the corvette yet even though people have pushed 1400rwhp through the Procharger. Surely the 6inch tall procharger unit can't be doing the same cooling as the Garrett core?
Could the op not use the spare GM / Holley IAT sensor he already has to monitor pre IC temps? This should give a similar scale and 'frequency' to the other sensor so as not to the data.
Last edited by chuntington101; 03-22-2017 at 02:23 AM.
We'll see this weekend if my turbo is putting out 450+++* temps on 15 psi as I'm seeing north of 120* in a single gear, low boost pull.
OP before that is there any way you can ensure that there is no air trapped in the cooler? Would have thought it would be relatively easy to check: run the pump for a few min., remove the intercooler from intake mani. but not water feed / return, turn the intercooler on it side (feed side pointing down), remove return side and see if water is right there.
The reason for saying is I know the ZR1 guys had massive issues with IATs due to air in the system. Your IC is probably the highest point in the system so a natural air trap point. Does the water 'manifold' sold come with any means of bleeding trapped air off?
Your IC is probably the highest point in the system so a natural air trap point. Does the water 'manifold' sold come with any means of bleeding trapped air off?
This is a valid point. I have a hard time envisioning air trapped, given the rate of water flow. However, I suppose it's something I would check, if I were in the same boat and dedicated to figuring it out.
Some other useful information would be the exact temperature of the sump water after a run. Cross the finish line, shut the pump off immediately, pull over and stick a thermometer in the water. $6 digital kitchen thermometer is fine. That, and a very close estimate of the total volume/mass of water and ice, along with the pre and post IC MAT/IAT's... we can calculate a pretty good average of what's going on in the system.
It's not likely to be the main issue, but I'll mention it again... a short piece of tubing to the edge of the radiator, allowing the turbo to access air that hasn't passed through the radiator is nearly free HP. Every degree counts toward a denser intake charge, intercooler issues or not.
If I only had a $ (or €) for every time you have said that! you would have thought everyone would know this fundermental with the number of times it's been said!
It's interesting what you say about different cooling requirements. Has anyone got any data for BTU or KJ of heat that is added for say 1000bhp worth of air at 15, 30, 45 and say 60psi? It would be interesting to see the values.
It's also interesting when you see intercooler she rated in BHP. Garrett sells them rated so, but is not clear if that's flow (which will be different with pressure) or cooling capacity (which will be different with pressure). Yet there 1000bhp core (12x24x4.5) is significantly larger than say a procharger race core for the corvette yet even though people have pushed 1400rwhp through the Procharger. Surely the 6inch tall procharger unit can't be doing the same cooling as the Garrett core?
Could the op not use the spare GM / Holley IAT sensor he already has to monitor pre IC temps? This should give a similar scale and 'frequency' to the other sensor so as not to the data.
And so you shall receive. Keep in mind this would be a theoretical scenario, but given more data (more temperatures, pressures, and efficiencies) it should get you close.
Little bit of testing this evening. I wired up my second MAT sensor.
Many of you were concerned with INLET temps of the turbo. I secured the MAT sensor right in front of my turbo inlet and went for a spin. Sitting at idle in the shop with everything totally heated up I'm seeing 115* *INLET* temp tops.
What I found interesting is that As soon as I get moving/driving the inlet temp rises a few degrees, then after I've been moving for 30 seconds or so the temp drops back down those same few degrees. As soon as I start BOOSTING the temp drops by over 10* pretty quickly down to 101-105*. Again, no hood on the car, same as it has always been.
It was suggested that my inlet temps behind the radiator may be be nearly 200*. Not the case. Not even close.
This is likely a stupid question that you've likely already tested, but I know that screens like that are more restrictive than a paper filter. Any chance that some of the extra heat could be coming from the extra drive pressure required to suck the air through the screen?
This is likely a stupid question that you've likely already tested, but I know that screens like that are more restrictive than a paper filter. Any chance that some of the extra heat could be coming from the extra drive pressure required to suck the air through the screen?
Interesting. No I have not yet tested that, but I will at the track on Saturday. Thanks for the input!
03-21-2017, 02:11 PM
you would have thought everyone would know this fundermental with the number of times it's been said! 
