Tommy42088

yeh I definitely didn't make 5-6 pounds. I was still at negative 3 on the vacuum at 2800. Ill hook that timing wire up tonight. Thats a very simple fix. Im just not to sure how many degrees i should set it at.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

I'm not sure retarding the timing is required.
I'm running the MSD 2-step, it doesn't retard timing, my tune isn't adjusted for it to my knowledge, and it seems to work just fine.

Tommy42088

the lnc2000 has the option to retard the timing, if I'm not building boost on the line at 2800 then I would think retarded the timing only on the 2 step would help me to do that. I would think I would start at a small amount and gradually go more on the degrees until I atleast see it pulling what I have my gate pressure set too. Even if only 5-6 pounds I would imagine that would be a major improvement.

The BallSS

iTrader: (9)

It surely can't hurt, I'd just start by pulling a couple degrees at a time from your target rpm window when on the 2-step.
You may have to if the converter is too tight and you may get lucky and get that cool popping, banging fireballs when on it lol.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Retard it 5 degrees or more to start and see if it lights off. That's the whole point of it. My 6 speed manual TA would launch in boost with a bigger turbo than the 7665 and manuals obviously provide no loading with the clutch pressed.

Tommy42088

when I'm asking what I should set it at I'm preferring to when i install the new turbo, the 78/75 1.25 ar. I don't plan on hitting the track again until I put this new turbo and 4 inch piping installed, but that's what I was think too, go 5 degrees and just get onto the 2 step and see what it gets too. What I'm hoping to get around 7 psi off the line, this truck is heavy I need to get this thing moving.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

Retarding the timing to build boost with the LNC can be a mixed bag on a stalled auto, meaning if you can't even build a psi or two at your current 2 step RPM than retarding the timing isn't going to really do anything for you and you would be best served by just raising your 2 step RPM. If you can't raise your 2 step RPM to at least build a psi or two of boost it sounds like your converter is just too tight for your combo. You need to be able to build at least 3-4 psi of boost before retarding the timing is going to help spike that boost up without the RPM dropping too much. Also pulling a degree or two per pound of boost with the LNC isn't going to really do much in most cases as it usually needs to be more "dynamic" than that, you need to keep timing high until around 3-4 psi of boost and then make a huge quick drop in timing to get that exhaust very hot very quickly, then throwing that timing back in when it reaches the launch boost/rpm set point. There isn't a way to do that with that box.

Tommy42088

lol hell yeh ill definitely be looking for that, im doing away with all my exhaust and putting a 4 inch exit right out the side of the front bumper so id imagine its going to sound alot more roudy and hopefully perform much better as well. Ill give the convertor i have the benefit of the doubt for now because if im going to change that then id go back with a different trans as well so im hoping to stick with this converter for a little while.

Tommy42088

it's activated off my brake pedal so why wouldn't I be able to do it with the box? Technically if I let off the brake the timing wire is deactivated therefore returning back to the normal timing that my tuner has set in the ecu. Also I could possibly get a little more out the 2 step, I could possibly put a little better set of brake pads on it and raise the 2 step to let's say maybe 3000 and I think it would be in boost, maybe not much but I think it would be there. It went from negative 11 to negative 3 fairly easy.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

What I'm saying is that box is limited to pulling a set amount of timing per psi of boost and technically that's not going to accomplish much for you. Pulling timing to build boost generally needs to be more "dynamic" than that for it to work properly so using that box for this specific situation isn't going to do much. Having a higher RPM set point will have a MUCH greater effect on building boost for you.

Tommy42088

that's not true, only if you wire it through the map sensor it will pull degrees per psi, if you wire it directly to +12v then you can pull up to 15 degrees no matter what psi your pulling. Thats why im saying im going to put all new brake pads on it so i can hold it back a little better and wire it directly to the 12v i have tied in with the 2 step thats activated by combination of switch and brake pedal. Also you can set the delay of seconds you want it to take to pull the degrees

Tommy42088

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Exactly right. I wouldnt do it with the MAP, let it dump all at once. It worked on my setup and you already have it and its easy to wire up. I'd suggest you simply try it on the current turbo because again its super easy to wire up and test. NicD does have a good point that you should find the 2 step RPM where you cant hold the truck anymore on the brakes. Play with that first, and then try retarding timing.

GMCGreg

Sorry, I'm no help with the 2 step - never had one. You are going to need it more with larger turbine and housing most likely. Anyone else have an opinion on intake manifold, keeping in mind the weight of the truck , gears, converter, trans , cam , displacement etc... ? My thoughts are that the early truck or better the nnbs / tbss intake will make a lot more torque in the usable rpm range and especially in the converter stall area . Better VE in that area area would mean more exhaust volume which would mean better/faster spool , more torque in that area would actually stall the converter higher , more rpm would also mean more exhaust -even faster spooling. Snow ball effect , it's a win win IMO . Anyone with comparison results?

NicD

iTrader: (7)

You can't hook it up like that to dump it all at once as that will actually hurt your spool time because it's not triggering at a particular RPM. Actually the retard build timer function MIGHT work if you time it correctly, but it's still not how it should be done as that box just doesn't give you that level of control. What you really need is more RPM...

Tommy42088

yes that's my plan, I'll just wire the orange wire directly to the switch I have for the 2 step so it activated and gives me whatever timing i set it too all at once. My brakes are getting a little worn out that's why I say I'm going to put some new pads on it and I think I can hold back a little more and bump the 2 step a notch. Even if I can get 1 or 2 psi out of it like that and hopefully the timing retard will take over from there and get me a few more psi out of it.

Tommy42088

that's why I was planning to use to delay feature, im hoping i can play with the delay seconds so im not instantly slamming it with a big jump in timing retard but in a since progressing it in with the delay, and im 100 percent with you on the more rpm. My brakes are actually getting a little worn out. Thats why i say im going to put new brake on it and bump up the rpm on the 2 step and try and get a few psi that way and then let the timing take over from there

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Who is your tuner?

I'd first swap over the parts and with your tuner see how it comes up on the 2 step as a baseline. You'll kinda know if it's lighting off in a decent amount of time or is on the laggy side. I'm not a tuner but perhaps your tuner or the guys on here who have tweaked they spooling-up aspect of their tunes can advice you on what to do.

My buddy who went from S483 / 370 to S491 had to for the first time retard timing to get it to spool in a reasonable time window.

Tommy42088

I definitely plan to look it over with him but I for will have to do it because if it wasn't spooling the first turbo on the line then it definitely isnt going to spiil the new one since it's a decent size bigger ar. When I take it to his house I'll have it all hooked up and ready so it's easy to make the adjustments.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Definitely do it on the current setup. 1 change at a time.