Tiago

iTrader: (27)

ever since my car has been done Ive had an issue with this...I shimmed my *** off on the stainless works bracket I made, decided to scrap that as it ate the belt anyway and almost took the motor out with it (overheating)...

Got a PTK bracket from Jose, he got it to me very fast to help me make an event (thanks again ) but I noticed it only works with the alternators that PTK uses on their kit, not the stock one. The bracket looks good, but like stated, doesn't bolt up to a stock alternator, I however made a few new brackets/supports to adapt it to one, groovy, shimmed it to line everything up, looks 100% but the f@#%@ belt still walks

Im fustrated as hell of this little thing keeping me from having some fun

Im not sure how the guys with PTK kits are doing, how does it line up with their alternator? any belt problems? Im coming close to ordering one of their alternators to see if it solves my problem but I hesitate to spend more $$$ to be screwed in the same position

Its either that or change a LOT of **** to get the alternator back in the stock location and be done with it

now someone please make a good quality bracket to work with the stock alternator without needing shims or adjusting, that would be great, thanks

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

i really dont understand why a company wouldnt do something like this.


on another note, why doesnt the vette bracket work with f-bodies?

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

the ones i made seem ok, i havent run mine but dont anticipate a problem, not sure if superdave has fired his up either.

maybe i should weld up a couple more for people that need them.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

shock towers are narrower in the fbody.
and the intake interfers with the 6.0 truck bracket.

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

oic i wonder if you ran a carb style intake with the truck bracket if it would fit?

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

its really cooking my noodles lol, the pulleys look perfectly aligned, Ive even put a straight edge across them, but as soon as I start the car the belt walks half way on the back of the tensioner. WTF.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

is it the tensioner that doesnt have a lip that goes on the outside of the belt right?
mine goes on the inside of the belt.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

Im runnign the stock tentioner, it has the lips on the outside as well as the ribs.

Im not using that bracket anymore but you can see the tensioner. It will climb the back lip of the tensioner pulley and ride there till it cuts it and breaks off

xssive

iTrader: (123)

See that bottom hole you arent using in the SW bracket? You are supposed to move the grooved tensioner pulley over to there and put a smooth idler pulley on the spring tensioner. Of course you are going to be cutting belts when you have the backside of them running on a spring loaded grooved pulley....

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

thats nice, but that bracket was never installed in anymanner like it was intended to I think. Every picture I have seen of someone using this bracket has had it setup differently. The belt is cutting on the side of the pulley, not on the grooves of the pulley.

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Tiff daily drives her car with the bracket I built her, never a problem with the belt. Its been on there since June.



Try swapping to a smooth pulley and see how that works, because as long as the bracket is straight, that's about the only difference I see between yours and hers.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

I will attempt to swap pulleys, however I still think someone should make a kit that is fool proof and simple. Not all this crap about having to adjust here and there, add support here and there. There is quite a market for this, can't believe noone makes a quality kit.


thanks,

xssive

iTrader: (123)

Swap that ribbed pulley you have for one that is a smooth idler with sidewalls.

Ping King

iTrader: (20)

any way you can post some more pictures of that?

RICE ETR

iTrader: (3)

i couldn't agree more...i had all kinds of trouble with mine....and almost lost my engine too, along with trashing a brand new $34 belt... i am running a voltage blaster and need the extra juice to keep things running right. I ended up spacing each of the mounts against the head/water pump with washers until the belt didn't come off. Seems to be working fine now.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

Ive messed with it further, my new findings is that the entire assembly bends down a little bit when you release the tensioner with the belt on, which sucks. I don't understand why it would bend with mine when others with their turbo kit seem to have no problem. Its such a subtle bend that its hard to notice unless you just pay attention to it when a second person loosens the tensioner. I will have to add a third support to teh bracket to try again. This was with the smooth idler pulley too.

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i dont know if the high lip pulley is still available from anywhere, but i got mine from thunder a couple years ago and the belt has not popped since.. stock tensioner..

frcefed98

iTrader: (16)

Pat man pulley or something like that right? I know they had a weird name for it.

HellRaiser

iTrader: (9)

I know how you feel!! Man did it suck big time to get the car running then BAM belt flies off. What I did was made the two back brackets shorter so when everything was tighting up the Alt sat slightly tilted back. Worked like a charm for me.

Nine Ball

iTrader: (38)

You can custom order the high flanged idler pulleys from ASP. They can make them in either ribbed or smooth. Damn, that sounds like a condom!