sr71bb

iTrader: (3)

Anybody use either one of these driveshafts and what have been the results. HP increases, track time decreases, etc????.

bigSS

IMO CF driveshafts are NOT worth it... to expensive. They're only like 3 or 4 lbs lighter than stock... i can't imagine it getting you more than a few rwhp. Get a Dennys... www.dennysdriveshaft.com ... garunted you will not break it for only $360 bucks. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

DaveSchott

iTrader: (5)

They are a hellava lot lighter than that. Price is often the big factor, if you have to pay near retail for the cf you'll probably be better off with metal. Don't know if a cf can be altered in any way once built.

Sears

I have one, 2lbs lighter then my stock aluminum ds.

Air21

I broke the stock steel driveshaft in my GN goin 100mph, lifted the back of the car up and snapped the drive shaft in 2, the end also cut the floor up pretty good. I would got CF if you can afford it. Denny's nitrous ready driveshafts are nice too, but i think they weigh alot? 22lbs i think....

Colonel

I run a C/F shaft for strength, weight (about 4 lbs lighter than a stock aluminum shaft despite the heavier 1350 harware), and safety. I like the fact that if it should ever break (VERY unlikely to say the least) it will turn into thread rather than beating the **** out of my car.

This shaft is a custom built ACPT (NOT their standard shaft that most folks are running) that I ordered through Mark Williams. It is the strongest shaft they sell. No worries of breakage = <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

FASST

Total weight isn't really that important...weight distribution is. Given identical weights, the closer the weight is to the center of rotation, the easier the DS is to accelerate.

Something else you need to think about is application. What are the primary goals of your car? A CF driveshaft is great for putting down high dyno numbers, or doing high speed runs. Adversely...and I can't speak from experience, but I just don't see a CF DS lasting under repeated high RPM/load launches such as those seen with slicks at the track. The CF weaving is very strong, but I can't imagine that the adhesive that attaches it to the steel end pieces is stronger than a weld. On the other hand, Colonel hasn't had any problems with his...I guess I'd just like to see some durability tests before I drop $750.

As for safety, hands down it's the way to go. When they break they strip the paint off of the bottom of the car, but that's about it. Much better than finding some Shrapnel in your ***.

Colonel

"I just don't see a CF DS lasting under repeated high RPM/load launches such as those seen with slicks at the track."

I don't think you could break the shaft I have with 1500 HP. Mark Williams said they've never heard of one of these shafts breaking. Even the regular ACPT C/F shaft (that thing is NOTHING compared to the one I run now) I used to run held up fine running low 10s with 1.3 60 fts. I've had that shaft for over 3 yrs in three different Camaros. I'm running it in my '02 Z28 now.

Mark Williams admits that the ACPT shafts they sell are even stronger than the shafts they themselves make. It's what they recommended to me when I told them I planned to spin 9000 RPM and run 8 second 1/4s leaving on a transbrake at 7000 RPM.

<small>[ December 02, 2002, 04:30 PM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

Sears

2 local 6 speed cars both spun the yoke off their ACPT CF driveshafts. Mine has held up so far but I don't launch as hard as they do.

Justin

Colonel

Justin, I take that failed shafts were the standard C/F shaft and not the larger one with the 1350 hardware that I have in my '00?

<small>[ December 02, 2002, 07:18 PM: Message edited by: Colonel ]</small>

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Yes, Colonel is right as far as CF shafts go. Warren Johnson runs an ACPT shaft, and we all know what they put through it. Plus, the lighter weight will result in more power to the tires too.

If you get a CF shaft, try to get one made 3.5" in diameter, not 3, Or maybe its 4" and not 3.5....I forget, but pick the bigger of the 2.

Just keep an eye on the weld at either end. The joint where the weld overlaps itself contains a dimple. I have seen 2 crack here- Justin, Could be why those 2 spun the ends off...

FASST

I know this is probably a stupid question, but does ACPT give you any kind of guarantee or warranty against breakage? I'd just hate to pay that kind of money twice.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by FASST:
<strong>I know this is probably a stupid question, but does ACPT give you any kind of guarantee or warranty against breakage? I'd just hate to pay that kind of money twice.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Everyone I know that has had theirs break sends it back to them, and then they get a big break on their next purchase.

verbs

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jsears8:
<strong>2 local 6 speed cars both spun the yoke off their ACPT CF driveshafts. Mine has held up so far but I don't launch as hard as they do.

Justin</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I've been launching at 6k+ for a while with no problems so far. I have the 1310 yoke fitting on the shaft, but a 1350 yoke on the rear end.