Cam/Stall
#1
Staging Lane
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: C.C. TX
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Cam/Stall
So im replacing my oil pump here pretty soon so i figured while im at it why not do a cam. So i started looking around a little and from what i have read on a couple of threads i kinda like the 224/224 .581 .581 cam. So my question is do i need a Stall for that size cam?
#3
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: trumbull connecticut
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i dont know if you need a stall for that cam but if you have the money buy one. the yank ss3600 is a good choice. might want a 3200 for a daily driver. new cam ,stall and a tune it will be a new car. might want to put in some subframe connectors if you can also.
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#8
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Find a new tuner.
It is mandatory.
You will hate driving your car, especially at a stop in D.
I recommend a 3200-3400 ptc since it sounds like you are wanting to stay on the conservative side.
I'll play the game.. Can you? Sure. You can run an ms4 and stock converter... But it will be absolute hell to drive and a complete dog, bolt on cars would beat you.
A converter should be the first mod to an a4, period.
It is mandatory.
You will hate driving your car, especially at a stop in D.
I recommend a 3200-3400 ptc since it sounds like you are wanting to stay on the conservative side.
I'll play the game.. Can you? Sure. You can run an ms4 and stock converter... But it will be absolute hell to drive and a complete dog, bolt on cars would beat you.
A converter should be the first mod to an a4, period.
#9
Your probably going to be standing on the brakes at stopsigns to keep the car from rolling. Your tuner might be able to help you out on some of that but get the stall. It's as much of a performance upgrade as a cam.
#10
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Find a new tuner.
It is mandatory.
You will hate driving your car, especially at a stop in D.
I recommend a 3200-3400 ptc since it sounds like you are wanting to stay on the conservative side.
I'll play the game.. Can you? Sure. You can run an ms4 and stock converter... But it will be absolute hell to drive and a complete dog, bolt on cars would beat you.
A converter should be the first mod to an a4, period.
It is mandatory.
You will hate driving your car, especially at a stop in D.
I recommend a 3200-3400 ptc since it sounds like you are wanting to stay on the conservative side.
I'll play the game.. Can you? Sure. You can run an ms4 and stock converter... But it will be absolute hell to drive and a complete dog, bolt on cars would beat you.
A converter should be the first mod to an a4, period.
#16
Saw this and was just wondering if there is a size specific stall to cam ?
like if i got a 233/234 599. 601 cam(just an example) would i have to run a certain size stall (4000 or 3200) for it to be streetable or would pretty much any size work ?
like if i got a 233/234 599. 601 cam(just an example) would i have to run a certain size stall (4000 or 3200) for it to be streetable or would pretty much any size work ?
#17
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Anything 3200 or larger would work. But to bring out the potential in the larger cams, you need a larger converter. Ls1s LOVE big converters. Even with a stock cam they will perform better with a 4400 than a 3200.
Anything 23x/23x .600 113 imo requires a MINIMUM of a 3600. If you aren't wanting to go that big on the converter because of the size, you shouldnt be going that big on the cam for the size either. You can run very quick with a 226 cam. My times with a budget setup full weight 2200+da pass barely spinning with a nitrous tune is in sig. I'm not making excuses, just showing what is left with a clean pass. I can still swith to a fast intake setup, 17/8 headers, better merge, better tune, tweak suspension, chrs1313 ram air, ewp, the list goes on. It will run consistent 6.xxs with this cam and heads still full weight and average da. That's a ten second pass fwiw.
If you want to stay around a 3200, I don't recommend it for a few different reasons, you should stay around something similar to Texas speeds 224 cam and smaller.
I see you are in fort Campbell, plenty of guys up there with nice setups from mild to wild, ask if you can get a ride to see how different converters act.
Anything 23x/23x .600 113 imo requires a MINIMUM of a 3600. If you aren't wanting to go that big on the converter because of the size, you shouldnt be going that big on the cam for the size either. You can run very quick with a 226 cam. My times with a budget setup full weight 2200+da pass barely spinning with a nitrous tune is in sig. I'm not making excuses, just showing what is left with a clean pass. I can still swith to a fast intake setup, 17/8 headers, better merge, better tune, tweak suspension, chrs1313 ram air, ewp, the list goes on. It will run consistent 6.xxs with this cam and heads still full weight and average da. That's a ten second pass fwiw.
If you want to stay around a 3200, I don't recommend it for a few different reasons, you should stay around something similar to Texas speeds 224 cam and smaller.
I see you are in fort Campbell, plenty of guys up there with nice setups from mild to wild, ask if you can get a ride to see how different converters act.
#18
Anything 3200 or larger would work. But to bring out the potential in the larger cams, you need a larger converter. Ls1s LOVE big converters. Even with a stock cam they will perform better with a 4400 than a 3200.
Anything 23x/23x .600 113 imo requires a MINIMUM of a 3600. If you aren't wanting to go that big on the converter because of the size, you shouldnt be going that big on the cam for the size either. You can run very quick with a 226 cam. My times with a budget setup full weight 2200+da pass barely spinning with a nitrous tune is in sig. I'm not making excuses, just showing what is left with a clean pass. I can still swith to a fast intake setup, 17/8 headers, better merge, better tune, tweak suspension, chrs1313 ram air, ewp, the list goes on. It will run consistent 6.xxs with this cam and heads still full weight and average da. That's a ten second pass fwiw.
If you want to stay around a 3200, I don't recommend it for a few different reasons, you should stay around something similar to Texas speeds 224 cam and smaller.
I see you are in fort Campbell, plenty of guys up there with nice setups from mild to wild, ask if you can get a ride to see how different converters act.
Anything 23x/23x .600 113 imo requires a MINIMUM of a 3600. If you aren't wanting to go that big on the converter because of the size, you shouldnt be going that big on the cam for the size either. You can run very quick with a 226 cam. My times with a budget setup full weight 2200+da pass barely spinning with a nitrous tune is in sig. I'm not making excuses, just showing what is left with a clean pass. I can still swith to a fast intake setup, 17/8 headers, better merge, better tune, tweak suspension, chrs1313 ram air, ewp, the list goes on. It will run consistent 6.xxs with this cam and heads still full weight and average da. That's a ten second pass fwiw.
If you want to stay around a 3200, I don't recommend it for a few different reasons, you should stay around something similar to Texas speeds 224 cam and smaller.
I see you are in fort Campbell, plenty of guys up there with nice setups from mild to wild, ask if you can get a ride to see how different converters act.
Thanks for the input.. i was hoping to go fairly wild with my set up and im starting to look for an a4 car for it seems like things tend to last longer in the a4 cars like the tranny itself and the 10bolt.. not saying it wont break just seems like it takes more abuse than the m6 cars thats all.
My plans were to go 1 7/8th kooks LT's with true straight pipes, aftermarket LID (depending on car i get), tsp 23X, 23X 115 cam with valve springs and push rods, 373 gears and 31 spline axels, and i was thinking of trying to go with a yank 3600-4000 stall, with 18" c6 wheels with mt et streets.
Oh and a nice nos plate system to boot, prob run a 150shot to start and work my way to a 200shot, try to run deep into the 10's with a 1.60 60ft
I have priced the parts and all that would cost me around 3-4k
#19
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
Thanks for the input.. i was hoping to go fairly wild with my set up and im starting to look for an a4 car for it seems like things tend to last longer in the a4 cars like the tranny itself and the 10bolt.. not saying it wont break just seems like it takes more abuse than the m6 cars thats all.
My plans were to go 1 7/8th kooks LT's with true straight pipes, aftermarket LID (depending on car i get), tsp 23X, 23X 115 cam with valve springs and push rods, 373 gears and 31 spline axels, and i was thinking of trying to go with a yank 3600-4000 stall, with 18" c6 wheels with mt et streets.
Oh and a nice nos plate system to boot, prob run a 150shot to start and work my way to a 200shot, try to run deep into the 10's with a 1.60 60ft
I have priced the parts and all that would cost me around 3-4k
My plans were to go 1 7/8th kooks LT's with true straight pipes, aftermarket LID (depending on car i get), tsp 23X, 23X 115 cam with valve springs and push rods, 373 gears and 31 spline axels, and i was thinking of trying to go with a yank 3600-4000 stall, with 18" c6 wheels with mt et streets.
Oh and a nice nos plate system to boot, prob run a 150shot to start and work my way to a 200shot, try to run deep into the 10's with a 1.60 60ft
I have priced the parts and all that would cost me around 3-4k
Also.. With that setup on motor you should cut a 1.5X short times... Bottom 1.4s on a decent nitrous hit.
Factor in suspension, you will need it.