2000NemeSS

iTrader: (2)

I got a leak coming from the steering rack thats going to cause me to replace it. Is there a trick to getting this thing out with somewhat ease? For what I read on Alldata I have to remove the alternator, support the engine and remove the "through" bolt on the driver side motor mount. Jack the motor and finish removing the assembly. Is there a quicker way or is this about it?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

(facepalm).......many threads on the subject young one......either raise the engine to get the drivers side bolt out OR cut that bolt......you have been schooled

2000NemeSS

iTrader: (2)

thanks, I put it in the search "steering rack removal" and got nothing about removing it, just about leaks and everyone saying to switch to manual rack and then it leading into a war between manual rack vs power vs if leak isnt bad leave it alone. Once again, thanks for the info but dont be a dick about it. Everyones gotta start somewhere

guy7bmwm83

iTrader: (5)

I am in the middle of this too. I took the "cut the driver side bolt" route to not deal with the motor mounts. I purchased a new bolt at the dealer, like $2. Just flush the system with new fluid before you remove the old one. And then bleed the system when everything is back together. I searched steering rack, steering gear, rack and pinion and found many threads about the details. I would suggest replacing any power steering hoses that may be bad while you are at it. I did notice my rack did not have the bushings and sleeve on the passenger bolt, so its been replaced before or it never had them. Check that out too or buy some. Moog has the kit.

Here are some of the threads I found helpful.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ack-few-s.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...k-removal.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-write-up.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...uid-flush.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...nion-play.html

I have read that some are uncomfortable putting one bolt upside down, however, my 97 Toyota Tacoma has both bolts mounted upside down. I am guessing its the original rack. I have owned it since 67,xxx and now has 212,xxx and if it's good enough for Toyota, it's good enough for me. I would use locktite as an extra measure along with the lock nuts.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

locktite on that bolt upside down is a must .........ask me how i know

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

Don't waste your time trying to jack the engine. Been there, done that ......... just cut the bolt ... will save you A LOT of f'ing around, just to find out you still don't have enough clearance to pull the bolt .

LS1121

iTrader: (17)

Just finished mine, actual working time was about 2 hours start to finish. I took a break after I got the old one out and went to the local car show. The whole job was a Piece of cake. I borrowed a battery operated sawzall from work and just cut thru the bolt on the driver side in like 45 seconds, didn't put much wear at all on a new blade and the battery still reads full. I could not believe how easy it was to cut. I was reading about people using 3 blades and taking 45 minets ....so simple. I put new ends on and just counted the threads on the old rack and matched to the new rack and the car even drives in a straight line lol. I will however take it in Monday for an alignment.

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

Cut the bolt and use metal locking nuts when you put the bolts back in upside down, you'll have no problems..

BirdsOfAFeather

FTR this is what I had to do today...beats taking off the alternator, the motor mount and lifting the motor.

This is the driver side bolts head cut off. Just buy a replacement bolt...you figure that part out. Luckily a friend of mine has a sh*t load of GM bolts available... I'm sure you'll find something at the hardware store or auto parts store.

Don't forget to put the replacement bolt back on the opposite way, it's the only way really.

I used a manual hand saw. Took me around 30-45 minutes of sawing...resting..sawing...resting, eventually it cut through. My hands are tired but the job was done..Just take your time.

Make sure your sway bar is down like this '''''''\____/'''''''' so you have enough room to have the saw move back and forth, the saw handle should rest on the sway bar for comfort. Oh and hold the bottom of the bolt with your other hand so the bolt doesn't spin as you're sawing it.

BTW, I purchased the Saw at my local Home Depot for $11...some extra saws for $4...teeth are still good on the one the saw came with + you can just flip it and use the other end.