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Dumbest, simplest fix you've done to your car?

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Old 05-17-2007, 05:12 PM
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I've had the problem of being locked out of my house before too... Too darn tired to think sometimes.

When I was learning to drive, my dad had driven me out someplace and swapped with me so I could drive. I try to take off and the car stalls... Did this about 6-7 times before my Dad finally tells me I'm in 3rd gear.

I was living in the mid-west one winter. I started my car and drove just a little bit when I saw the thing had quickly started over heating and felt like it was going to croak on the spot. Took some time, but I finally remembered that when I did some radiator work during the summer, I just filled it with water (figured I'd do anti-freeze later when I had some more time and money). The entire coolant system was filled with ice.

Driving my TA one evening, I turn my lights on as the sun is going down. I notice that NONE of my dash lights are turning on. I pull over, check fuses, turn the lights on and off lots of time (just out of frustration)... Finally realize I must have bumped the dimmer **** and turned the lights all the way to off.
Old 05-17-2007, 09:06 PM
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I don't know if i should necessarily feel like a dumbass for doing it, but for the longest time after i bought my hawk, i'd roll down my windows and constantly hear this metal on metal scratching noise when i'd take a fast left turn or be cruising slow around a turn, and about a month or so later, im coming home and no one is on the road so i come to a complete stop to practice my launching for the strip, and i launch hard and break my torque arm, drive home at 5 mph thinking i ******* popped a spring off the right spring base, get it towed, fixed.. haven't heard it since, at least it doesnt sound like **** when i turn corners anymore haha
Old 05-21-2007, 03:17 PM
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I needed to do the front brakes on my car so I bought cross drilled/slotted rotors and brake pads. I put it all together and while driving I noticed whenever I hit the brakes I got a weird vibration in the sterring wheel. WTF? I take it all apart, check and reclean everything and reassemble. Still vibrated. I drove it around like that for about 2 weeks and I finally swallowed my pride and asked one of my friends whose a mechanic to look at it. He walks up to car, looks at rotor and says " Dude, your rotors are on backwards." I had put the driver side and passenger side rotors on the wrong side. After a good amount of ballbusting from my friend I swapped the rotors to the correct side and got new brake pads. No more vibration. Truly proving once again I can really be a moron.
Old 06-10-2007, 12:14 AM
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one day i went out to lunch with my gf at the time...we drove separate and met eachother, we ate and get in our cars and i leave, about 5 minutes later i get a call saying she is still at portillos and her car wont go anywhere and she needs my help...i get there, the key is in, she says she cant figure it out....

i say ok, i look at her dash and 0000 RPMs.... I tell her she needs to start the car to go places.
Old 06-11-2007, 12:39 AM
  #85  
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Everyone's locked their keys in the car at least once, even if it was in your driveway, while working on it. My wife has locked her keys in the car twice while it was running.

A friend of mine watched a guy lock his keys in the car, while it was running, and in drive, with the tires spinning. The car was stuck in the snow, and the auto loacks activated when it hit 10mph. He got out of the car and closed the door before he realized what happened.

Did you know that the 1999 F150 has a seperate fuse for each trailer turn light? Truck lights worked fine, but one of the trailer lights was dead. I was about 30-40 minutes into tracing wires, when I remembered my second rule of tracing electrical problems; check ALL the fuses. The first rule; make SURE you have a good battery.
Old 06-11-2007, 12:23 PM
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Has anyone had this happen? I locked the keys in the car, so I got a coathanger and tried to use the electric unlock button to open the door, coathanger = too weak. I got a thin metal rod and stuffed it down into the window and pushed on the lock button, still no go. I ended up pushing the lock switch out of the door panel I pushed so hard. Eventually I got tired of it and pulled the window out about 5 inches (bad) and stuck my arm in and opened the t-top, just for fun I pushed on the lock switch, worked fine with no effort.

Also, rebuilding the 4L60E and forgetting to put the pin in the 2-4 band, wondering why no 2nd or 4th. Solving this problem with the tranny in the car is easier than it seems, took all of 15 seconds once I got the pan back down and the valve body off.
Old 06-13-2007, 03:36 PM
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Brought my car to a shop to have them weld up an exhaust leak. There was no exhaust leak, #1 spark plug was loose
Old 02-02-2010, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by N3V3RL8T
Putting the scissor jack under your rear diff is dangerous and a bad idea. always use the propper lift points!

I dont have any cool easy fix storys. but there are some good ones here.
Since When is that not a good idea and dangerous?
Old 02-02-2010, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by todddchi
1.) I've changed a front hub when in fact the noise was feathered tires (but in my defense a shop told me that was the problem).
2.) I've changed rear axle bearings when in fact it was an oversized cheapy rotor rubbing on the caliper under cornering end play.
3.) I dropped a transmission pan 3 times for a shift kit install. 1st drop as normal, 2nd drop due to flipped gasket (dunno wtf I was thinking), 3rd drop found a misplaced check ball. That experience fried me.
4.) The fact that it took me a summer and a half to figure out the !HS mod. That design flaw jumped out at me the 1st day I had my new Z.

I'm thinking the 5th stupid thing on this list might be dynamating my doors. Hoping and praying that I have rock solid window motors.

Currently I'm trying to figure out why the passenger side *** end of my car sits a good 3/4" lower (uneven) after a 10 bolt swap assembly for assembly. Hoping that I'll eventually find something stupid.
did you forget to reinstall the spring isolator rubber donut?
Old 02-03-2010, 07:02 PM
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Had an 04 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP. Had this really f-ing annoying click when I hit bumps. Changed wheel bearings, struts, half shafts, steering shaft. Still had the damn noise. Replaced sway bar end links and...fixed. So for 80 bucks worth of problem, I spent 500 bucks.
Old 02-03-2010, 08:23 PM
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After having the car for about 6 months I started to feel like...what the hell...it just doesn't have the power I was expecting, it seemed a little sluggish.

So I went to a speed shop and they recommended a bolt-on mod, a stroker engine.

I pulled my stock engine out, and bolted a stroker engine in. It fixed all the problems. It was no longer sluggish and all of a sudden I was walking away from stock Vipers.

Best single fix I ever did. I recommend it.

.
Old 02-04-2010, 08:36 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by LS6427
After having the car for about 6 months I started to feel like...what the hell...it just doesn't have the power I was expecting, it seemed a little sluggish.

So I went to a speed shop and they recommended a bolt-on mod, a stroker engine.

I pulled my stock engine out, and bolted a stroker engine in. It fixed all the problems. It was no longer sluggish and all of a sudden I was walking away from stock Vipers.

Best single fix I ever did. I recommend it.

.
I lol'd

Tightened a sparkplug for me!
Old 02-19-2010, 01:04 AM
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my girlfriends cars would not start. i changed the starter. the original did not start causr the transmission was not in park..
Old 02-19-2010, 01:59 AM
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On my Cadillac it has those wreath and crest emblems on the vinyl top by the rear door. They were all faded, so I replaced them.

I kept hemming and hawing on what part I was supposed to order, they came with pegs on the back and without. I finally just ordered the ones with pegs, and said **** it if they aren't right I'll cut the pegs off.

So I got out my screw driver and to my amazement it was just a press fit with the pegs on the back. Took all of one minute being careful with a flat blade screw driver to get them off. Super easy to steal them if somebody wanted to.
Old 02-19-2010, 03:01 PM
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Bought a PCM, had it tuned...cost $300.00! The real fix: $4.00 relay!
Old 02-19-2010, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Pewterpower
On my neighbor's truck:

Damn thing wouldn't start, not even a click. It was fine the night before.
We undid all the posts, all the grounds, etc... cleaned them all up. Still nothing. Checked fuses, took readings, etc... still nothing.

THE DAMN THING WAS NOT IN PARK !!!
did that once. at my summer job, i get to drive a the crappiest ford f150. no radio, no a/c, no heat, no door locks, have to open the door from the outside (inside door handle doesnt work), tail gate doesnt open, somethings always breaking, gear indicator on the dash doesnt work,etc. well one day after going back to the truck after picking up coffee at the deli, the car wouldnt start. open the hood, check everything. so i thought the battery finally died and ended up calling a co worker and telling him to meet me at the deli. well stupid me left it in reverse and i had to explain to he other guys why i was late coming back from the deli.

same **** happened a week later. that time i knew the first thing to do was make sure it was in park
Old 02-20-2010, 02:10 PM
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many stories here but mostlly customer cars not mine

1) customer complains that the car (5.0 foxbody) would never start and there is compression,spark,air/fuel ... soo i take a look at the firing order and distributer and they did not match it was in the right order but they were all forward by 1 spot

2)customer car with "custom intake" (fleabay) it was a ls2 powered vette
every time he floors it, it would go into "reduced power mode" and the problem was the cheap intake was too small and the TB blade would hit it every time he floors it

3) customer did not know the difference between "high volume" and "high pressure" oil pump so he did the old back yard trick of streching the spring and his engine leakd oil from almost every where
Old 02-20-2010, 05:36 PM
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When I first got the car I couldn't figure out why my right blinker would "stick" on the console, as opposed to to blinking. Called multiple shops before I figured the bulb had gone out...
Old 02-20-2010, 06:18 PM
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Not really a fix, but I didn't know there was a flip out cup holder on the center console for like 6 months when I bought my TA. Now I use it all the time.
Old 02-21-2010, 11:42 AM
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I've got 2.

I had a 94 Caprice 9C1 that quit running 2 miles from my buddy's house, had it towed there (~$90), spent most of a day tearing into the ignition, removed an MSD that I had (maybe it went bad?) checking the coil, etc. Finally, my buddy went around and ran a rubber hose down into the gas tank... dry. We had been messing with the gauges recently and they weren't reading correctly.

Second, my 97 SS hit a big puddle and killed the opti, I moved away (PA to GA) and left the car at my brother-in law's. A few months later came back to visit, replaced the opti, and the car wouldn't stay running. It would run, then once it got hot it would stumble and stall. Re-start and it would run for about 30 seconds, then stumble and stall. Messed with it for a while but then had to go back to GA.

Months later, came home and tried gain, it started up and ran fine. Took it for a spin around the block, and ran fine until I got back to he house and then it just quit. Popped the hood, see that the coil wire is arcing when we try to start it. Replace the coil wire and drove it 800 miles to it's new home.

Ugh. A whole year of car time lost.


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