Could seafoam have killed my motor?
04-23-2008, 03:07 PM
#1
Could seafoam have killed my motor? As some of you know, my 3800 V6 spun a rod bearing a couple weeks ago 
Replacement going in right now finally (no, not an LS1, not enough cash to do that unfortunately...). I said I wanted to seafoam the replacement motor (has 55K miles) to be sure the motor is good and clean. My brother and dad started going after me on the seafoam treatments, telling me never to use it again because it killed my first motor (did it on my car about 6 months/5k miles ago). First several lifters in january went bad, now the rod bearing.
Their reasoning:
Seafoam breaks up sludge and crap in the motor and the oilpan, like it is supposed to do,
The stuff then floats around in the motor, then a glob of it gets stuck over an oil channel which starves part of the motor of oil.
I don't think this makes sense, because that is what the oil filter is supposed to do, filter out crap in the oil, right? Plus that was 3 oil changes ago (1 after seafoaming, 1 3000 miles later, and 1 when the lifters were replaced). I think it is due to the previous owner beating on it and not changing the oil routinely (there was a burnt black spot on the tip of the dipstick too).
So, who is right here?
Replacement going in right now finally (no, not an LS1, not enough cash to do that unfortunately...). I said I wanted to seafoam the replacement motor (has 55K miles) to be sure the motor is good and clean. My brother and dad started going after me on the seafoam treatments, telling me never to use it again because it killed my first motor (did it on my car about 6 months/5k miles ago). First several lifters in january went bad, now the rod bearing.Their reasoning:
Seafoam breaks up sludge and crap in the motor and the oilpan, like it is supposed to do,
The stuff then floats around in the motor, then a glob of it gets stuck over an oil channel which starves part of the motor of oil.
I don't think this makes sense, because that is what the oil filter is supposed to do, filter out crap in the oil, right? Plus that was 3 oil changes ago (1 after seafoaming, 1 3000 miles later, and 1 when the lifters were replaced). I think it is due to the previous owner beating on it and not changing the oil routinely (there was a burnt black spot on the tip of the dipstick too).
So, who is right here?
04-23-2008, 04:55 PM
#2
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On your replacement engine, rather than using Seafoam use Auto-RX.
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
It cleans slowly and is not harmful in any way.
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
It cleans slowly and is not harmful in any way.
04-23-2008, 05:29 PM
#3
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As some of you know, my 3800 V6 spun a rod bearing a couple weeks ago Replacement going in right now finally (no, not an LS1, not enough cash to do that unfortunately...). I said I wanted to seafoam the replacement motor (has 55K miles) to be sure the motor is good and clean. My brother and dad started going after me on the seafoam treatments, telling me never to use it again because it killed my first motor (did it on my car about 6 months/5k miles ago). First several lifters in january went bad, now the rod bearing.
Their reasoning:
Seafoam breaks up sludge and crap in the motor and the oilpan, like it is supposed to do,
The stuff then floats around in the motor, then a glob of it gets stuck over an oil channel which starves part of the motor of oil.
I don't think this makes sense, because that is what the oil filter is supposed to do, filter out crap in the oil, right? Plus that was 3 oil changes ago (1 after seafoaming, 1 3000 miles later, and 1 when the lifters were replaced). I think it is due to the previous owner beating on it and not changing the oil routinely (there was a burnt black spot on the tip of the dipstick too).
So, who is right here?
Replacement going in right now finally (no, not an LS1, not enough cash to do that unfortunately...). I said I wanted to seafoam the replacement motor (has 55K miles) to be sure the motor is good and clean. My brother and dad started going after me on the seafoam treatments, telling me never to use it again because it killed my first motor (did it on my car about 6 months/5k miles ago). First several lifters in january went bad, now the rod bearing.Their reasoning:
Seafoam breaks up sludge and crap in the motor and the oilpan, like it is supposed to do,
The stuff then floats around in the motor, then a glob of it gets stuck over an oil channel which starves part of the motor of oil.
I don't think this makes sense, because that is what the oil filter is supposed to do, filter out crap in the oil, right? Plus that was 3 oil changes ago (1 after seafoaming, 1 3000 miles later, and 1 when the lifters were replaced). I think it is due to the previous owner beating on it and not changing the oil routinely (there was a burnt black spot on the tip of the dipstick too).
So, who is right here?
04-23-2008, 05:30 PM
#4
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On your replacement engine, rather than using Seafoam use Auto-RX.
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
It cleans slowly and is not harmful in any way.
http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html
It cleans slowly and is not harmful in any way.
04-23-2008, 07:40 PM
#5
I think if there was enough gunk in the engine to be loosened up by the seafoam, it was in poor condition regardless.
If it did loosen up enough gunk they think it would clog the oil pump pick up screen or maybe even the filter but at that point you'd see the oil pressure drop. The oil pressure drop would cause the failure.
Next time you have a gunked up engine part laying around let it soak in some seafoam, the gunk dissolves pretty good, it doesn't fall off in chunks. And if it does fall off in chunks, like I said the gunk was the ultimate problem, not the seafoam.
If it did loosen up enough gunk they think it would clog the oil pump pick up screen or maybe even the filter but at that point you'd see the oil pressure drop. The oil pressure drop would cause the failure.
Next time you have a gunked up engine part laying around let it soak in some seafoam, the gunk dissolves pretty good, it doesn't fall off in chunks. And if it does fall off in chunks, like I said the gunk was the ultimate problem, not the seafoam.
04-23-2008, 10:25 PM
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Sounds like to me the OP drove around with the stuff in the engine, maybe had too much in there. Thats HARMFUL. So it can be harmful "in a way". On most engine flush products it says DO NOT rev the engine, just let it idle. Its for a reason, so you don't eat up the gaskets.
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04-23-2008, 10:30 PM
#8
I think if there was enough gunk in the engine to be loosened up by the seafoam, it was in poor condition regardless.
If it did loosen up enough gunk they think it would clog the oil pump pick up screen or maybe even the filter but at that point you'd see the oil pressure drop. The oil pressure drop would cause the failure.
Next time you have a gunked up engine part laying around let it soak in some seafoam, the gunk dissolves pretty good, it doesn't fall off in chunks. And if it does fall off in chunks, like I said the gunk was the ultimate problem, not the seafoam.
If it did loosen up enough gunk they think it would clog the oil pump pick up screen or maybe even the filter but at that point you'd see the oil pressure drop. The oil pressure drop would cause the failure.
Next time you have a gunked up engine part laying around let it soak in some seafoam, the gunk dissolves pretty good, it doesn't fall off in chunks. And if it does fall off in chunks, like I said the gunk was the ultimate problem, not the seafoam.
So, opinions, should I clean the replacement motor or just wait? It has a 1 year warranty so even if something were to happen it would be covered...
04-23-2008, 10:32 PM
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04-23-2008, 11:28 PM
#12
if your original engine lasted 6 months and 5000 miles after seafoaming it (ESPECIALLY after having changed the oil 3 times since the seafoam was done), then there is virtually no chance in hell that engine "gunk" is what killed it. when the oil was changed, there would have been huge globs of junk in it, and your oil filter would have had chunks of stuff falling out of it when it was removed. if you did the oil change yourself, you would have seen both. if you had the oil changed by a shop, they would have at least seen the chunks of stuff falling out of the filter, and if they were worth a crap, would have told you about it.
anyway, if this is your car, and you are paying for everything, who cares what your dad & brother think? they can continue being ignorant to the facts, but it doesn't make seafoam any more dangerous to use. as long as you follow the instructions posted in the seafoam sticky thread, you should be OK.
even if someone else is helping you pay for the new engine, i'd still do the seafoam.....just don't let them know about it. what they don't know, won't hurt them. then you can bring it up a year or two down the line after your engine keeps running strong, and prove to them that it was just the condition of the original engine, and not the seafoam that caused it to die.
anyway, if this is your car, and you are paying for everything, who cares what your dad & brother think? they can continue being ignorant to the facts, but it doesn't make seafoam any more dangerous to use. as long as you follow the instructions posted in the seafoam sticky thread, you should be OK.
even if someone else is helping you pay for the new engine, i'd still do the seafoam.....just don't let them know about it. what they don't know, won't hurt them. then you can bring it up a year or two down the line after your engine keeps running strong, and prove to them that it was just the condition of the original engine, and not the seafoam that caused it to die.
04-23-2008, 11:44 PM
#13
No chunks or globs in the oil, it was black as night and a tad thicker than normal (which again is expected) but nothing worse than that, and every successive oil change was what you'd expect, moderately used looking oil but nothing funny about it.
I'm just asking the question, I highly doubted the seafoam had anything to do with it (especially considering the timeframe) but just checking opinions. I'm paying every penny for the replacement motor, my car so I deal with the costs related to it.
I may wait until this summer to do it, time isn't my ally right now. Maybe this time around it won't want to stall out while the vacuum line is disconnected...
I'm just asking the question, I highly doubted the seafoam had anything to do with it (especially considering the timeframe) but just checking opinions. I'm paying every penny for the replacement motor, my car so I deal with the costs related to it.
I may wait until this summer to do it, time isn't my ally right now. Maybe this time around it won't want to stall out while the vacuum line is disconnected...
04-24-2008, 08:15 AM
#14
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I wouldn't think the sea foam had anything to do with your engine failing. It sounds to me that it was on its way out anyway!
Flushing an older engine like that sometimes does more harm then good! If it was negected by the previous owner, nothing you can do will save it. If your oil is turning black between services that just means the temperatures in the engine are to high, usually bearing related. No " magic in a can" can fix that!
If i were to "flush " an engine like that I would just use a quart of diesel fuel. It will rinse down the engine as good as anything else IMHO. then just change the oil with some cheap generic oil run it a few minutes and change it again. Then use the good stuff!
Keep in mind that what ever your flushing out of the engine for the most part will be pumped back into it through the oil pump thus your just recirculating that same garbage. Yes the filter will catch alot of it but if it gets to full it will go into bypass( if it has a bypass valve) or just starve the engine from that point!
Black oil is a symptom of overheating,( not related to the temp gauge). Generally its a bearing with excess friction thats the cause! Even the cheap oil will survive well in a fresh clean engine.
Most oil filters only filter down to 20 microns, anything smaller can pass through and get into the bearings. It only takes a few small particles like this to cause an overheated bearing, and once that starts, its purpetual, it just gets worse!
Just my opinion!
Flushing an older engine like that sometimes does more harm then good! If it was negected by the previous owner, nothing you can do will save it. If your oil is turning black between services that just means the temperatures in the engine are to high, usually bearing related. No " magic in a can" can fix that!
If i were to "flush " an engine like that I would just use a quart of diesel fuel. It will rinse down the engine as good as anything else IMHO. then just change the oil with some cheap generic oil run it a few minutes and change it again. Then use the good stuff!
Keep in mind that what ever your flushing out of the engine for the most part will be pumped back into it through the oil pump thus your just recirculating that same garbage. Yes the filter will catch alot of it but if it gets to full it will go into bypass( if it has a bypass valve) or just starve the engine from that point!
Black oil is a symptom of overheating,( not related to the temp gauge). Generally its a bearing with excess friction thats the cause! Even the cheap oil will survive well in a fresh clean engine.
Most oil filters only filter down to 20 microns, anything smaller can pass through and get into the bearings. It only takes a few small particles like this to cause an overheated bearing, and once that starts, its purpetual, it just gets worse!
Just my opinion!
Last edited by 1toDV8; 04-24-2008 at 08:21 AM.
04-24-2008, 11:40 AM
#15
What oil and filter do you recommend I use? I've been typically been using valvoline 10W-30 non-synthetic and a Mighty oil filter.
I've been considering going to synthetic but is there benefit to doing that on the V6? Would you go to a blend first for a change or two before full synthetic or just do a total switch? The replacement motor has 55K on it.
Been thinking of that synthetic "walmart oil" a.k.a. rebadged mobil 1 oil. Mind you I'm a college student so I can't afford $100 oil changes or anything like that. Maybe I would just be best sticking with what I've been using.
I've been considering going to synthetic but is there benefit to doing that on the V6? Would you go to a blend first for a change or two before full synthetic or just do a total switch? The replacement motor has 55K on it.
Been thinking of that synthetic "walmart oil" a.k.a. rebadged mobil 1 oil. Mind you I'm a college student so I can't afford $100 oil changes or anything like that. Maybe I would just be best sticking with what I've been using.
05-12-2008, 07:51 AM
#16
My bet is that your motor spun a bearing because the lower intake manifold gasket cracked and leaked.
Check this out: 45k mile 1998 L36 LIM gaskets that I believe caused a spun rod bearing and subsequent broken rod
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Dexcool sucks.
Check this out: 45k mile 1998 L36 LIM gaskets that I believe caused a spun rod bearing and subsequent broken rod
Dexcool sucks.
07-30-2008, 08:18 PM
#18
I think if there was enough gunk in the engine to be loosened up by the seafoam, it was in poor condition regardless.
If it did loosen up enough gunk they think it would clog the oil pump pick up screen or maybe even the filter but at that point you'd see the oil pressure drop. The oil pressure drop would cause the failure.
Next time you have a gunked up engine part laying around let it soak in some seafoam, the gunk dissolves pretty good, it doesn't fall off in chunks. And if it does fall off in chunks, like I said the gunk was the ultimate problem, not the seafoam.
If it did loosen up enough gunk they think it would clog the oil pump pick up screen or maybe even the filter but at that point you'd see the oil pressure drop. The oil pressure drop would cause the failure.
Next time you have a gunked up engine part laying around let it soak in some seafoam, the gunk dissolves pretty good, it doesn't fall off in chunks. And if it does fall off in chunks, like I said the gunk was the ultimate problem, not the seafoam.
This is the only post I would pay any attention to except the post about the gaskets & broken rod, I see that problem at least once a month at the shop, not the rod issue but the gaskets, but I do not know if the camaro V6 uses the same gaskets and the grand am/ grand prix etc.. V6
I would say its just coincidence what happened or if the seafoam did loosen crap up it would collect on the oil pickup screen, it probably wouldnt even make it to the filter, pull the pan off the old motor, if the screen is clogged the motor was already trash, you just helped it over the edge.
07-30-2008, 09:06 PM
#19
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x2 on the Auto-Rx. Regardless of what caused it I'm sure the seafoam did not help. Shock carbon treatments are never good for an engine.
http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/
http://www.auto-rx.com/rms13/
07-30-2008, 11:00 PM
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It says on cans of engine cleaner to NOT drive or rev the engine. Pressure will let the chemicals squeeze/seep into the gaskets where they do not belong. If you can't understand or see the logic there, you're the one with the problem. Otherwise the manufacturers of some engine cleaners would tell you to drive the car 