Is running the engine at 160* and below safe?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 470
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From: Plano, Tx.
Is running the engine at 160* and below safe? With the cooler weather here in Texas now it takes my car about 20 min to even get above 160* with the Meziere water pump and I think that's just too cold for the motor. 
I would prefer temps to be at least at 175*, but that takes 30 mins and by then I'm done driving.
Is there anything that could go wrong with running the motor that cold for that amount of time?
I would prefer temps to be at least at 175*, but that takes 30 mins and by then I'm done driving.
Is there anything that could go wrong with running the motor that cold for that amount of time?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 470
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From: Plano, Tx.
I was doing some reading and it looks like if the coolant is too cold it will set off a SES light after having the car on for awhile.
I never got that because my SES has been on for not having EGR AND AIR.
I never got that because my SES has been on for not having EGR AND AIR.
That's pretty unusual. I had my Hype160 in, in Carolina cold (30s)
and it would still warm up in under 5 minutes I'd say (definitely by
the first traffic light, a couple of miles in to town). Maybe the
Meziere pump 'stat has some bypass that lets too much flow
through the radiator and has you cooling from the get-go?
and it would still warm up in under 5 minutes I'd say (definitely by
the first traffic light, a couple of miles in to town). Maybe the
Meziere pump 'stat has some bypass that lets too much flow
through the radiator and has you cooling from the get-go?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 470
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From: Plano, Tx.
With the Meziere you use a SBC 160* thermostat which you're supposed to drill two (3/16") holes in so air doesn't get stuck on the thermostat preventing it from opening.
The problem is the holes are too large and allow coolant from the radiator to flow thru the engine preventing a proper warmup.
I'm thinking of switching to a 160 with 1/16" holes instead and see if that helps warm up the car quicker.
jmx has a very good write-up on the Meziere here.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=26
The problem is the holes are too large and allow coolant from the radiator to flow thru the engine preventing a proper warmup.
I'm thinking of switching to a 160 with 1/16" holes instead and see if that helps warm up the car quicker.
jmx has a very good write-up on the Meziere here.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=26
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Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 470
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From: Plano, Tx.
I should mention it takes 20 min to get above 160* when the outside temp is below 55*.
When the temps outside are 60* and above it takes about 10min to heat up to the high 160's coolant temps.
A funny story.
A week ago when it was 45* outside I was testing the car out and put the heater on full blast and it felt like the a/c on low.
When the temps outside are 60* and above it takes about 10min to heat up to the high 160's coolant temps.
A funny story.
A week ago when it was 45* outside I was testing the car out and put the heater on full blast and it felt like the a/c on low.
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I would not drive my car at that low of a temperature for a period of time. You should try switching the T-stat to a stock temp one. I would also Atap the car to check the temp.
That's why I didn't get one because I live in MN. For the few winter drives it would be too cold to drive with a EWP. The plus side will be in Summer where you will reap the benefits.
That's why I didn't get one because I live in MN. For the few winter drives it would be too cold to drive with a EWP. The plus side will be in Summer where you will reap the benefits.
my car takes about 4 miles to get up to 168 and it sits there, only problem for me is i eat a lot more gas. as long as u go in closed loop then it should be ok. is tehre any way to put a resistor in the power line for thw EWP so it doesnt opperate as fast, where u can have it like that on cold days ?
Somebody needs to invent an electronic thermostat for these pumps. Take a reading of the coolant temp sensor and turn the pump on and off accordingly. Any electrical engineers reading this?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 304
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From: Richmond, Va.
Originally Posted by Cobraeater
I should mention it takes 20 min to get above 160* when the outside temp is below 55*.
When the temps outside are 60* and above it takes about 10min to heat up to the high 160's coolant temps.
A funny story.
A week ago when it was 45* outside I was testing the car out and put the heater on full blast and it felt like the a/c on low.
When the temps outside are 60* and above it takes about 10min to heat up to the high 160's coolant temps.
A funny story.
A week ago when it was 45* outside I was testing the car out and put the heater on full blast and it felt like the a/c on low.
Those two 3/16" holes are giving you a fair bit of flow,
I reckon. You only need 1/16" to let air bubbles by and
keep the thermostat "in the loop". How about getting
a new SBC 'stat and starting with smaller hole diameter,
one hole, and only enlarge it if you find you are getting
temperature oscillation/surge during warmup?
I reckon. You only need 1/16" to let air bubbles by and
keep the thermostat "in the loop". How about getting
a new SBC 'stat and starting with smaller hole diameter,
one hole, and only enlarge it if you find you are getting
temperature oscillation/surge during warmup?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,631
Likes: 2,552
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by Cobraeater
With the Meziere you use a SBC 160* thermostat which you're supposed to drill two (3/16") holes in so air doesn't get stuck on the thermostat preventing it from opening.
The problem is the holes are too large and allow coolant from the radiator to flow thru the engine preventing a proper warmup.
I'm thinking of switching to a 160 with 1/16" holes instead and see if that helps warm up the car quicker.
jmx has a very good write-up on the Meziere here.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=26
The problem is the holes are too large and allow coolant from the radiator to flow thru the engine preventing a proper warmup.
I'm thinking of switching to a 160 with 1/16" holes instead and see if that helps warm up the car quicker.
jmx has a very good write-up on the Meziere here.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=26
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 272
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From: Ashburn, VA
Flex-a-lite Adjustable Temp Control Switch
Hook this sucker up to a relay- then to your water pump- and you should be all set!
Will also save wear/tear on your water pump since it won't just automatically be kept on all the time. I'd say setting it at 185 or so should be sufficient.
Hook this sucker up to a relay- then to your water pump- and you should be all set!
Will also save wear/tear on your water pump since it won't just automatically be kept on all the time. I'd say setting it at 185 or so should be sufficient.
Last edited by z28hokie; Jan 19, 2004 at 10:05 PM.
Well, I wouldn't recommend either of the above ideas... if you switch the pump completely off, you're going to get hot spots, boiling and steam pockets.. you need some amount of circulation at all times. Just think of what your engine would go through, getting very hot, then the fans and pump kick on and start to circulate.. you're looking at widely fluctuation temps, and the associated problems. When I spoke with meziere, they didn't wan't us to do any sort of resister/speed control, because they felt the pump could actually stop, even if it was still getting a reduced voltage source(in the attempt to reduce temps). My thoughts are, reduce the bypass hole size, and if you have the electronic skills, try to reduce the pump voltage (when engine is below 150 degrees) to a level that assures positive pump movement (make sure it's still spinning, although at a slower speed), yet is able to switch to full voltage at 160 + degrees. Although Meziere recommends against it, I think it could be done with enough testing.. with the appropriate voltage/speed control, it should be doable.