Speed Engineering Race Version Headers Now Available!!
11-25-2014, 07:13 AM
#721
Well that didn't take long. Does anybody have pics of the the stainless headers AND y-pipe installed? I would like to see what the ground clearance is like. A friend of mine is good at custom exhaust, so I will likely have him fab up true duals next spring. Doing mandrel obviously means a lot of cutting and welding as we dont have access to a mandrel bender. A thought we kicked around was buying a yipe and cutting it just before the merge. That would take care of a good amount of bends, the connection to the headers and leave us with two pipes right in the area they need to be to run duals side by side following the same path as the factory setup. If the clearance for the SE piece is good it seems like a no brainier given the price.
11-25-2014, 10:57 AM
#722
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Well that didn't take long. Does anybody have pics of the the stainless headers AND y-pipe installed? I would like to see what the ground clearance is like. A friend of mine is good at custom exhaust, so I will likely have him fab up true duals next spring. Doing mandrel obviously means a lot of cutting and welding as we dont have access to a mandrel bender. A thought we kicked around was buying a yipe and cutting it just before the merge. That would take care of a good amount of bends, the connection to the headers and leave us with two pipes right in the area they need to be to run duals side by side following the same path as the factory setup. If the clearance for the SE piece is good it seems like a no brainier given the price.
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cino (01-14-2020)
12-04-2014, 06:10 PM
#730
Anyone know what if any true dual set-ups the 1-7/8" longtubes might fit up with? Would like to go that route but don't have the time/skill/tools to make one myself, worst case scenario I'll just run the y pipe and a turn down.
12-07-2014, 06:48 AM
#731
Speed Engineering race headers with TSP ory questions hi - headers are awesome but we have issues with the y pipe.
1) the drivers side front piece of the Y pipe (short) sort of goes over the header at a very slight angle. When tightening it, it seems like it puts pressure on the collector.
2) Related to above because its the same piece in question, the first short pipe on the drivers side that has that kink in it to avoid hitting the floorboard still hits or lies against the floorboard. I couldn't "swivel" it around to get the notch to clear the floorboard. Any tips or pointers here? I haven't driven the car yet but I know its gonna rattle against it.
3) The factory cross over piece that attaches to both sides of the tranny tunnel won't fit because the Y pipe is in its way. Seems like its 2-3 inches from being able to put that factory piece back in.
4) Do I need to hit a muffler shop to get this perfect?
5) I bought the mufflex anti-rattle thingy just in case but can't even see how to use it since the Y pipe is right against the floor.
Here is super short idle clip with the setup. Stock 98 WS6 cat-back (single on the left). Stock motor but we did LS6 intake, alum flywheel, SLP lid, accufab t-boday at the same time as the headers. No tune yet.
1) the drivers side front piece of the Y pipe (short) sort of goes over the header at a very slight angle. When tightening it, it seems like it puts pressure on the collector.
2) Related to above because its the same piece in question, the first short pipe on the drivers side that has that kink in it to avoid hitting the floorboard still hits or lies against the floorboard. I couldn't "swivel" it around to get the notch to clear the floorboard. Any tips or pointers here? I haven't driven the car yet but I know its gonna rattle against it.
3) The factory cross over piece that attaches to both sides of the tranny tunnel won't fit because the Y pipe is in its way. Seems like its 2-3 inches from being able to put that factory piece back in.
4) Do I need to hit a muffler shop to get this perfect?
5) I bought the mufflex anti-rattle thingy just in case but can't even see how to use it since the Y pipe is right against the floor.
Here is super short idle clip with the setup. Stock 98 WS6 cat-back (single on the left). Stock motor but we did LS6 intake, alum flywheel, SLP lid, accufab t-boday at the same time as the headers. No tune yet.
Last edited by 2MCHPWR; 12-08-2014 at 05:07 PM.
12-08-2014, 12:43 PM
#732
McNasty: The TSP and eBay true duals work with our headers. Not sure if the Kooks true dual system connects to them or not.
2MCHPWR: Ya, unfortunately some cars are much closer than others. We have seen the issue on several applications where the chassis is a little tweaked casing the issue. You have really two options. Straiten the chassis of the car and weld sub-frame connectors on it, or knotch that specific section of the sub-frame.
Thanks
Sean
2MCHPWR: Ya, unfortunately some cars are much closer than others. We have seen the issue on several applications where the chassis is a little tweaked casing the issue. You have really two options. Straiten the chassis of the car and weld sub-frame connectors on it, or knotch that specific section of the sub-frame.
Thanks
Sean
Last edited by Speed Engineering; 12-08-2014 at 04:08 PM.
12-08-2014, 02:18 PM
#733
TECH Apprentice
hi - headers are awesome but we have issues with the y pipe.
2) Related to above because its the same piece in question, the first short pipe on the drivers side that has that kink in it to avoid hitting the floorboard still hits or lies against the floorboard. I couldn't "swivel" it around to get the notch to clear the floorboard. Any tips or pointers here? I haven't driven the car yet but I know its gonna rattle against it.
3) The factory cross over piece that attaches to both sides of the tranny tunnel won't fit because the Y pipe is in its way. Seems like its 2-3 inches from being able to put that factory piece back in.
2) Related to above because its the same piece in question, the first short pipe on the drivers side that has that kink in it to avoid hitting the floorboard still hits or lies against the floorboard. I couldn't "swivel" it around to get the notch to clear the floorboard. Any tips or pointers here? I haven't driven the car yet but I know its gonna rattle against it.
3) The factory cross over piece that attaches to both sides of the tranny tunnel won't fit because the Y pipe is in its way. Seems like its 2-3 inches from being able to put that factory piece back in.
The tunnel brace wouldn't go back on my car either. I tried jacking the exhaust up then putting the brace on, but when I did that the exhaust hit the torque arm. At first I was thinking of making spacers out of steel tubing and using longer bolts, but I didn't feel like dragging it all over the place. I ended up not bolting it back on. I don't notice any difference with it off.
12-08-2014, 04:15 PM
#734
Ya, its a pain man. The first time we found out about the issue we thought it was screw up with one of our headers, but it ended up being the chassis. We had the guy ship them back to us, trying figure out what was going on. They measured out just fine/sent them back. The guy trued his car put sub-frame connectors on it, and they slid right in without any issues. Crazy how much the chassis move in these cars. We even pushed the drivers collector down 3/8" of an inch at one point just to help with the issue.
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
12-08-2014, 11:34 PM
#736
No, welding them on alone doesn't true a frame. In this specific circumstance I am not sure if the guy had access to a frame bench, or did what he could with his own shop tools/floor anchors. He did take before and after pictures for us at one point however showing almost an inch of difference between the two collector tips. Pretty wild, but makes sense as we have cracked windows leaving hard in these cars even with bolt in SFC's.
Sean
Sean
12-11-2014, 05:47 PM
#737
Teching In
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Got my 1-3/8 LT's installed.. They fit perfect with no issues what so ever! Not sure about the Y yet...only mocked into place until I decide what to run for the rest of the exhaust. Thanks Speed Engineering.