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They won't because they are way bigger. Drivers side takes some maneuvering. But expect way better performance.
I am doing it on the floor. No lift to get them in. I am hoping that having poly motor mounts in will have the engine high enough not to have to unbolt it.
I am doing it on the floor. No lift to get them in. I am hoping that having poly motor mounts in will have the engine high enough not to have to unbolt it.
I had the exact same thing. Poly mounts and bbk headers. I had to literally bash the drivers side up into the bay. If you don't want to do that you're gonna at least have to unbolt the steering.
I had the exact same thing. Poly mounts and bbk headers. I had to literally bash the drivers side up into the bay. If you don't want to do that you're gonna at least have to unbolt the steering.
I will save myself the hassle then and unbolt the motor mount. Did they clear the K-Member ok?
Just ordered my 1 7/8th headers. Will be replacing a set of 1 3/4 BBK's. I hope they go in as easy as the BBK's did.
I just installed 1 7/8 this past weekend.Passengers side dropped in from the top and drivers side went in very easy from the bottom.No hitting or struggle.I didn't have to remove anything but the coil packs.Easiest headers I have ever put in.
Thank you guys for the business.. Yes, passenger side goes in without removing any major pieces. Drivers side just requires one steering shaft bolt to be removed, and pushed to the side. Other than that it should side right in with ease.
Headers went in very easy. Just had to move the steering linkage as mentioned and the went in super easy. Fitment is awesome, plenty of space all around them and they aren't close to making contact with the K-member.
The Y-Pipe on the other hand.....F*^K that sob. I had to walk away. The provided clamps don't fit well at all and when I did finally get them on they don't actually squeeze the pipes together. Ill be going to a local exhaust shop and grabbing some better ones in the morning.
Headers went in very easy. Just had to move the steering linkage as mentioned and the went in super easy. Fitment is awesome, plenty of space all around them and they aren't close to making contact with the K-member.
The Y-Pipe on the other hand.....F*^K that sob. I had to walk away. The provided clamps don't fit well at all and when I did finally get them on they don't actually squeeze the pipes together. Ill be going to a local exhaust shop and grabbing some better ones in the morning.
SE knows the clamps suck, they mention it a couple of times in what is now a giant thread. They also recommend which ones to get. Kind of weird, I know, but they give you these and then tell you to get those. At least they're honest.
AnotherWs6: Our latest batch of Y-Pipes have a little bit better clamp than our previous one. They actually listen to our bitching lol. If you look at the picture our clamps now include the center wedge on the bolt, similar to the Magnaflow clamp we were recommending.
AnotherWs6: Our latest batch of Y-Pipes have a little bit better clamp than our previous one. They actually listen to our bitching lol. If you look at the picture our clamps now include the center wedge on the bolt, similar to the Magnaflow clamp we were recommending.
Sean
Thanks, I got mine at a local trucker parts house. I think they were $6 or $16 each. They are flat, wide and soft which form to the different size pipes as you can see in the picture. Seal perfect.
I bought the summit brand lap joint clamps. they work much much better. I think they were 8$ each too.
Even the new and improved ones pictured above wouldn't clamp down enough to hold the joint firmly. Even after impacting them down I could still slip the pipe off.
How many do you need with out going and opening the box? 4 plus the cat back connection?
5 plus the cat-back connection. They definitely work. I had a small exhaust leak on the connection to the collector that was playing hell on my fuel trims. The lap joint clamp sealed it up perfectly and now my trims are behaving again.
my buddy and I replaced my Hooker LT 1 3/4 headers and y-pipe and installed Speed Engineering 1 /7/8 LT headers and off road y-pipe (Part #: 25-1020+25-1002). The headers and y-pipe went in smoothly with no issues but when I tried to connect the y-pipe to my Magnaflow exhaust, (Part #: 15684), the tubing was to long. Looking at it from under neath my T/A, the tubing connect to the y-pipe would push past the connection that goes over my rear-end.
It looks like I need to cut off about 2" inches off the tubing but I was wondering if anyone else had similar issue(s) or may have another solution on this setup. Thanks for any advice/help.
my buddy and I replaced my Hooker LT 1 3/4 headers and y-pipe and installed Speed Engineering 1 /7/8 LT headers and off road y-pipe (Part #: 25-1020+25-1002). The headers and y-pipe went in smoothly with no issues but when I tried to connect the y-pipe to my Magnaflow exhaust, (Part #: 15684), the tubing was to long. Looking at it from under neath my T/A, the tubing connect to the y-pipe would push past the connection that goes over my rear-end.
It looks like I need to cut off about 2" inches off the tubing but I was wondering if anyone else had similar issue(s) or may have another solution on this setup. Thanks for any advice/help.
I did. I didn't like how the SE Y-Pipe necked down to go into the I-pipe anyway so I cut it out. I used a straight 3" clamp from the the local auto parts store to then connect the Y-pipe to my exhaust. It worked great with no leaks.
I did. I didn't like how the SE Y-Pipe necked down to go into the I-pipe anyway so I cut it out. I used a straight 3" clamp from the the local auto parts store to then connect the Y-pipe to my exhaust. It worked great with no leaks.
Thanks for the response. I'm debating if I should try and fix this myself or take it to my exhaust guy to weld the y-pipe and install it so it would ride w/o any rattling or deal w/ any exhaust leak.
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