Speed Engineering Race Version Headers Now Available!!
Thank you for the business.
Honestly it hasn't been decided when we are going to build the 1 7/8" version. The truck versions are in the works currently, as well as 98-02 F-Body intake kits, and 99-06 truck intakes. It all depends on sales, and timelines. I would say they are definitely next after those, but still a ways out.
Thanks
Sean
Honestly it hasn't been decided when we are going to build the 1 7/8" version. The truck versions are in the works currently, as well as 98-02 F-Body intake kits, and 99-06 truck intakes. It all depends on sales, and timelines. I would say they are definitely next after those, but still a ways out.
Thanks
Sean
The intakes will consist of a Stainless high flow Lid, Smooth Bellow, K&N Style Filter, and a cold air induction piece that picks up air in the radiator passage way. Not sure on pricing yet, still waiting on test products to come in. Items will probably be sold individually also.
We have received a new batch. However we still have approx 20 sets left of the old to sell prior to cracking into the new ones.
Thanks
Sean
We have received a new batch. However we still have approx 20 sets left of the old to sell prior to cracking into the new ones.
Thanks
Sean
I helped a friend install these over this past weekend. Sean, you'll recognize the buyer as the one who contacted you about his steering shaft hitting the primary. We determined he has a LT1-style steering rack which throws the angle of the steering shaft WAY off (car was purchased with 120k miles; previous owner did some funky stuff). This has NOTHING to do with Speed Engineering -- this would have happened with ANY brand header on this particular install. I only mention this on the forum because the LT1 racks can be used in LS1 cars when using factory manifolds. When buying a rebuilt rack, be sure to stick with a "FE2" or "FE4" rack.
I've only installed PaceSetter's before this install, so that's where I draw my comparison. Quality of welds were better than PaceSetter (I had to clean up my PaceSetter primary welds a bit; we didn't touch the Speed Engineering primary welds). Ease of install was better than PaceSetter (not that PaceSetter was bad; however, these slid *right* in without absolutely no fighting). It is important to note that we installed Prothane poly mounts at the same time, so we were not fighting worn, sagging, factory mounts (I did the same when I installed my PaceSetter's).
Aside from the Speed Engineering being stainless versus the PaceSetter steel, the next biggest plus for the SE's is that the dipstick tube bolt did not need modified to clear the flange! I had to Dremel the bolt when installing my PaceSetter's; however, there wasn't any clearance problem with the Speed Engineering flange and that bolt.
The Y-pipe went together just fine; however - and this was also a problem with my TSP y-pipe - a couple clamps simply would not tighten enough to seal the slip-fits. Whereas I had to purchase TorcTite clamps to seal my TSP y-pipe, my friend is going to cut reliefs on the pipes (like the factory intermediate pipe has) in hopes they'll tighten. Perhaps an option to upgrade to TorcTite clamps during checkout would be a good idea. Also, there needs to be a 2.75" clamp so as to connect to the I-pipe (my TSP y-pipe had the same issue -- it only came with 3" clamps).
edit: I guess I should add my final verdict
I would unquestionably purchase these Speed Engineering headers if one is on a budget. The only reason to purchase PaceSetter over these would be that PS are made in USA. Otherwise, there's no reason to get yourself inferior mild steel along with the need to modify the dipstick tube bolt.
While everyone is on the TSP bandwagon, don't forget TSP headers are made in China, too. Hell, they're probably in the same factory or one owned by the same people! Looking at today's prices, TSP are $180 more than SE. If one finds utility in spending that much more just to have TSP, then that's their prerogative. This isn't to say there is anything wrong with TSP, but with current pricing, it seems foolish. To be honest, I surmise that it'll only be a matter of time before TSP lowers their pricing to compete. With that said, TSP does have the velocity spike, but one needs to determine if that's worth $180.
For those who insist on 1 7/8", then one must determine if they are willing to spend $310 extra for TSP. This is nearly along the same lines as deciding between a LS6 intake or a FAST.
As for comparing to eBay (no-name) headers, the cheapest I just saw on there (as of today) are $58 less than Speed Engineering; however, they are 1 5/8" primaries until proven otherwise (see sticky thread) no matter what the auction description says.
Please, everyone, do yourself a favor and go with studs. It makes the job so much easier, especially if one does the install alone. Just install the studs, hang the gaskets on them (preferably an OE MLS gasket), and then slide the header up-and-on. No fighting bolts to get threaded while someone is trying to hold the header up -- while also trying to hold the gasket in place (we wasted a LOT of time, especially the rear bolts on the passenger side, using regular bolts). Just as with the TorcTite clamps, I'd suggest an option to upgrade to studs at checkout (I bought Alper Motorsports stainless studs for my install -- very affordable from eBay; ARP makes them, too).
I've only installed PaceSetter's before this install, so that's where I draw my comparison. Quality of welds were better than PaceSetter (I had to clean up my PaceSetter primary welds a bit; we didn't touch the Speed Engineering primary welds). Ease of install was better than PaceSetter (not that PaceSetter was bad; however, these slid *right* in without absolutely no fighting). It is important to note that we installed Prothane poly mounts at the same time, so we were not fighting worn, sagging, factory mounts (I did the same when I installed my PaceSetter's).
Aside from the Speed Engineering being stainless versus the PaceSetter steel, the next biggest plus for the SE's is that the dipstick tube bolt did not need modified to clear the flange! I had to Dremel the bolt when installing my PaceSetter's; however, there wasn't any clearance problem with the Speed Engineering flange and that bolt.
The Y-pipe went together just fine; however - and this was also a problem with my TSP y-pipe - a couple clamps simply would not tighten enough to seal the slip-fits. Whereas I had to purchase TorcTite clamps to seal my TSP y-pipe, my friend is going to cut reliefs on the pipes (like the factory intermediate pipe has) in hopes they'll tighten. Perhaps an option to upgrade to TorcTite clamps during checkout would be a good idea. Also, there needs to be a 2.75" clamp so as to connect to the I-pipe (my TSP y-pipe had the same issue -- it only came with 3" clamps).
edit: I guess I should add my final verdict
I would unquestionably purchase these Speed Engineering headers if one is on a budget. The only reason to purchase PaceSetter over these would be that PS are made in USA. Otherwise, there's no reason to get yourself inferior mild steel along with the need to modify the dipstick tube bolt.While everyone is on the TSP bandwagon, don't forget TSP headers are made in China, too. Hell, they're probably in the same factory or one owned by the same people! Looking at today's prices, TSP are $180 more than SE. If one finds utility in spending that much more just to have TSP, then that's their prerogative. This isn't to say there is anything wrong with TSP, but with current pricing, it seems foolish. To be honest, I surmise that it'll only be a matter of time before TSP lowers their pricing to compete. With that said, TSP does have the velocity spike, but one needs to determine if that's worth $180.
For those who insist on 1 7/8", then one must determine if they are willing to spend $310 extra for TSP. This is nearly along the same lines as deciding between a LS6 intake or a FAST.
As for comparing to eBay (no-name) headers, the cheapest I just saw on there (as of today) are $58 less than Speed Engineering; however, they are 1 5/8" primaries until proven otherwise (see sticky thread) no matter what the auction description says.
Please, everyone, do yourself a favor and go with studs. It makes the job so much easier, especially if one does the install alone. Just install the studs, hang the gaskets on them (preferably an OE MLS gasket), and then slide the header up-and-on. No fighting bolts to get threaded while someone is trying to hold the header up -- while also trying to hold the gasket in place (we wasted a LOT of time, especially the rear bolts on the passenger side, using regular bolts). Just as with the TorcTite clamps, I'd suggest an option to upgrade to studs at checkout (I bought Alper Motorsports stainless studs for my install -- very affordable from eBay; ARP makes them, too).
Last edited by demonspeed; Feb 26, 2014 at 01:21 PM. Reason: added final thoughts
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
I helped a friend install these over this past weekend. Sean, you'll recognize the buyer as the one who contacted you about his steering shaft hitting the primary. We determined he has a LT1-style steering rack which throws the angle of the steering shaft WAY off (car was purchased with 120k miles; previous owner did some funky stuff). This has NOTHING to do with Speed Engineering -- this would have happened with ANY brand header on this particular install. I only mention this on the forum because the LT1 racks can be used in LS1 cars when using factory manifolds. When buying a rebuilt rack, be sure to stick with a "FE2" or "FE4" rack.
I've only installed PaceSetter's before this install, so that's where I draw my comparison. Quality of welds were better than PaceSetter (I had to clean up my PaceSetter primary welds a bit; we didn't touch the Speed Engineering primary welds). Ease of install was better than PaceSetter (not that PaceSetter was bad; however, these slid *right* in without absolutely no fighting). It is important to note that we installed Prothane poly mounts at the same time, so we were not fighting worn, sagging, factory mounts (I did the same when I installed my PaceSetter's).
Aside from the Speed Engineering being stainless versus the PaceSetter steel, the next biggest plus for the SE's is that the dipstick tube bolt did not need modified to clear the flange! I had to Dremel the bolt when installing my PaceSetter's; however, there wasn't any clearance problem with the Speed Engineering flange and that bolt.
The Y-pipe went together just fine; however - and this was also a problem with my TSP y-pipe - a couple clamps simply would not tighten enough to seal the slip-fits. Whereas I had to purchase TorcTite clamps to seal my TSP y-pipe, my friend is going to cut reliefs on the pipes (like the factory intermediate pipe has) in hopes they'll tighten. Perhaps an option to upgrade to TorcTite clamps during checkout would be a good idea. Also, there needs to be a 2.75" clamp so as to connect to the I-pipe (my TSP y-pipe had the same issue -- it only came with 3" clamps).
edit: I guess I should add my final verdict I would unquestionably purchase these Speed Engineering headers if one is on a budget. The only reason to purchase PaceSetter over these would be that PS are made in USA. Otherwise, there's no reason to get yourself inferior mild steel along with the need to modify the dipstick tube bolt.
While everyone is on the TSP bandwagon, don't forget TSP headers are made in China, too. Hell, they're probably in the same factory or one owned by the same people! Looking at today's prices, TSP are $180 more than SE. If one finds utility in spending that much more just to have TSP, then that's their prerogative. This isn't to say there is anything wrong with TSP, but with current pricing, it seems foolish. To be honest, I surmise that it'll only be a matter of time before TSP lowers their pricing to compete. With that said, TSP does have the velocity spike, but one needs to determine if that's worth $180.
For those who insist on 1 7/8", then one must determine if they are willing to spend $310 extra for TSP. This is nearly along the same lines as deciding between a LS6 intake or a FAST.
As for comparing to eBay (no-name) headers, the cheapest I just saw on there (as of today) are $58 less than Speed Engineering; however, they are 1 5/8" primaries until proven otherwise (see sticky thread) no matter what the auction description says.
Please, everyone, do yourself a favor and go with studs. It makes the job so much easier, especially if one does the install alone. Just install the studs, hang the gaskets on them (preferably an OE MLS gasket), and then slide the header up-and-on. No fighting bolts to get threaded while someone is trying to hold the header up -- while also trying to hold the gasket in place (we wasted a LOT of time, especially the rear bolts on the passenger side, using regular bolts). Just as with the TorcTite clamps, I'd suggest an option to upgrade to studs at checkout (I bought Alper Motorsports stainless studs for my install -- very affordable from eBay; ARP makes them, too).
I've only installed PaceSetter's before this install, so that's where I draw my comparison. Quality of welds were better than PaceSetter (I had to clean up my PaceSetter primary welds a bit; we didn't touch the Speed Engineering primary welds). Ease of install was better than PaceSetter (not that PaceSetter was bad; however, these slid *right* in without absolutely no fighting). It is important to note that we installed Prothane poly mounts at the same time, so we were not fighting worn, sagging, factory mounts (I did the same when I installed my PaceSetter's).
Aside from the Speed Engineering being stainless versus the PaceSetter steel, the next biggest plus for the SE's is that the dipstick tube bolt did not need modified to clear the flange! I had to Dremel the bolt when installing my PaceSetter's; however, there wasn't any clearance problem with the Speed Engineering flange and that bolt.
The Y-pipe went together just fine; however - and this was also a problem with my TSP y-pipe - a couple clamps simply would not tighten enough to seal the slip-fits. Whereas I had to purchase TorcTite clamps to seal my TSP y-pipe, my friend is going to cut reliefs on the pipes (like the factory intermediate pipe has) in hopes they'll tighten. Perhaps an option to upgrade to TorcTite clamps during checkout would be a good idea. Also, there needs to be a 2.75" clamp so as to connect to the I-pipe (my TSP y-pipe had the same issue -- it only came with 3" clamps).
edit: I guess I should add my final verdict
I would unquestionably purchase these Speed Engineering headers if one is on a budget. The only reason to purchase PaceSetter over these would be that PS are made in USA. Otherwise, there's no reason to get yourself inferior mild steel along with the need to modify the dipstick tube bolt.While everyone is on the TSP bandwagon, don't forget TSP headers are made in China, too. Hell, they're probably in the same factory or one owned by the same people! Looking at today's prices, TSP are $180 more than SE. If one finds utility in spending that much more just to have TSP, then that's their prerogative. This isn't to say there is anything wrong with TSP, but with current pricing, it seems foolish. To be honest, I surmise that it'll only be a matter of time before TSP lowers their pricing to compete. With that said, TSP does have the velocity spike, but one needs to determine if that's worth $180.
For those who insist on 1 7/8", then one must determine if they are willing to spend $310 extra for TSP. This is nearly along the same lines as deciding between a LS6 intake or a FAST.
As for comparing to eBay (no-name) headers, the cheapest I just saw on there (as of today) are $58 less than Speed Engineering; however, they are 1 5/8" primaries until proven otherwise (see sticky thread) no matter what the auction description says.
Please, everyone, do yourself a favor and go with studs. It makes the job so much easier, especially if one does the install alone. Just install the studs, hang the gaskets on them (preferably an OE MLS gasket), and then slide the header up-and-on. No fighting bolts to get threaded while someone is trying to hold the header up -- while also trying to hold the gasket in place (we wasted a LOT of time, especially the rear bolts on the passenger side, using regular bolts). Just as with the TorcTite clamps, I'd suggest an option to upgrade to studs at checkout (I bought Alper Motorsports stainless studs for my install -- very affordable from eBay; ARP makes them, too).
also.... i saw some people talking about running these with true duals. is there any specific models that i should look into if i purchase these headers?
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12 Second Club
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Excellent review demonspeed. I've been looking for some performance headers and these seem to fit the bill nicely for my build. You review helped me make my decision and will be putting these on this spring.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Dundee, OR
pricing I have been looking at your headers on ebay for a while. Just found today that Speed Engineering is a sponsor on LS1tech. I have had OBX exhaust systems for a turbo Eclipse and for a Twin Turbo 300zx. If your quality is at least as good as theirs then I will be very happy to purchase your headers soon. Your "race" version headers are free of the air and egr ports, piping, flanges that your "air/egr" headers have which means less work and parts go into them. So, why the $30 premium for the "race" version?
demonspeed: Thank you for the review. Appreciate the comments.
possessedsaint: From what we have heard both TSP & Ebay true duals will work with our headers.
Amber02ws6: So, why the $30 premium for the "race" version? Simply said those guys just plain do more volume than we do. China is all about volume, and were just not there yet to compete at there pricing. Ours, I would like to say are a way better header as well:
-Larger Primaries
-O2 Sensors Holes on the inside
-Don't have fitment issues etc
Thanks
Sean
possessedsaint: From what we have heard both TSP & Ebay true duals will work with our headers.
Amber02ws6: So, why the $30 premium for the "race" version? Simply said those guys just plain do more volume than we do. China is all about volume, and were just not there yet to compete at there pricing. Ours, I would like to say are a way better header as well:
-Larger Primaries
-O2 Sensors Holes on the inside
-Don't have fitment issues etc
Thanks
Sean
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Dundee, OR
You missed what I was saying.
Why are YOUR race headers $30 more than YOUR air/egr headers when more work, labor, materials go into YOUR air/egr headers than your race headers?
Also, thank you for taking the time to answer everyone.
Why are YOUR race headers $30 more than YOUR air/egr headers when more work, labor, materials go into YOUR air/egr headers than your race headers?
Also, thank you for taking the time to answer everyone.
We get them cheaper. They are more of a generic header out of China which many companies can get. Where the race version is our proprietary header we have built for us only.
Thanks
Sean
Thanks
Sean
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Dundee, OR
OK, that makes sense. I'll be ordering from you soon. Thank you for your excellent customer service.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
demonspeed: Thank you for the review. Appreciate the comments.
possessedsaint: From what we have heard both TSP & Ebay true duals will work with our headers.
Amber02ws6: So, why the $30 premium for the "race" version? Simply said those guys just plain do more volume than we do. China is all about volume, and were just not there yet to compete at there pricing. Ours, I would like to say are a way better header as well:
-Larger Primaries
-O2 Sensors Holes on the inside
-Don't have fitment issues etc
Thanks
Sean
possessedsaint: From what we have heard both TSP & Ebay true duals will work with our headers.
Amber02ws6: So, why the $30 premium for the "race" version? Simply said those guys just plain do more volume than we do. China is all about volume, and were just not there yet to compete at there pricing. Ours, I would like to say are a way better header as well:
-Larger Primaries
-O2 Sensors Holes on the inside
-Don't have fitment issues etc
Thanks
Sean
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
got my headers and y pipe the other day. quick delivery, and they shipped them in great packaging because I told them the UPS in my area are rough with rural packages. Most parts i get are battered by the time they get to me. Sean, thanks a lot. A+ customer service.
As for the headers themselves, they appear to be pretty nice quality for a budget header. the flanges look good, the welds are decent, the bends are nice, etc. the stainless looks beautiful. I have yet to install them, but if they go in decent without rubbing or banging ill be happy. The ORY seems nice as well.
my only concerns are ones stated here already. The o2 bungs are deep, but i dont know whether or not that would affect readings. hopefully not.
overall, great buy, best deal on stainless headers really. hope they stay pretty.
As for the headers themselves, they appear to be pretty nice quality for a budget header. the flanges look good, the welds are decent, the bends are nice, etc. the stainless looks beautiful. I have yet to install them, but if they go in decent without rubbing or banging ill be happy. The ORY seems nice as well.
my only concerns are ones stated here already. The o2 bungs are deep, but i dont know whether or not that would affect readings. hopefully not.
overall, great buy, best deal on stainless headers really. hope they stay pretty.