well lets hope that the 2nd time around is a charm then shall we?

 

Let's not try any short cuts. Do it right the first time.

 

My fingers were crossed for ya last time, but I'll do it again.

 

the part about not following the torque sequence and claiming to be capable of doing this should be screaming alarm bells for everyone here...

at the very least, you should have someone around that's done this before.

I'm gonna sit and wait for the next 15 page monster I screwed up x item next...

 

Well god damny all im sorry, I thought the ARP bolts, you just bolted down in order and you were done with it, end of story. I thought it did away with turning this bolt 50* and then turning that bolt to 75ft bls blah blah blah.

I had a bit of mis-information but now ive been re-informed with the correct info I need. I thank yall for letting me know that the ARP's still have a sequence, and I'll follow it.

 

The only reason that was pointed out for you was that you blurted out your thinking here.

Imagine how many other incorrect procedures you have in your head that may have caused your first two engine failures.

This is why I point out that your "learn by doing" approach instead of reading the big thick service manual is going to be a long, expensive process.

 

There is a picture of the tq sequence and numbers for each of the three passes on here somewhere... let me find it for you.

Here, use this as a guide...
http://www.blackcamaro.com/headstud.htm

But, one thing I do differently is after the final torque, let it sit for a couple hours, then go over it again. Leave it sit overnight, then do one more pass. Never a problem doing it this way and it's the safest bet possible. Don't rush this one.

Also, my final torque was to 70 ft/lbs but that was b/c I have iron heads/block.

 

I agree, scotch brite wheel on an angle grinder to clean even an iron deck is trouble.
Nice pics, yea they look like heads alright yippie.
Just run the head bolts down with a 1/2" impact.

 

Sorry yall, been kind of irritable the last few days, ltos of family **** going on.

But thank you for that link, im actually printing it out now - however do those apply to just head bolts? I dont have the studs, just normal ol bolts.


As far as the learn by approach vs reading - its the truth, I truely can not do the reading thing, I have to actually sit down and do it, not read about it. Sure vie made a few **** ups, and expensive ones at that, its the way I learn and learn best.

 

Eh, I think bolts may be slightly diff tq numbers, but the sequence is the same.

 

Ok, so is there any other sites that say the specific torque numbers?

 

torque specs...

*Note*

there are multiple passes for the head bolts dont mess this up! and dont forget the copper spray gasket and use fel pro graphites and I think you have a chance

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1

 

For torque specs on head bolts...

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2

Scroll down to "If using ARP head bolts..."

 

schweeeet I printed out that sequence, much better than turning this and that bolt 50* and drawing lines all over the bolts.

I got stock GM graphite gaskets, but I always put the copper stuff on there just to help the gasket stick and not move around anyway.

 

Well is that bitch back on the road yet or what?!

 

You don't need/want to use copper spray on graphite's.

 

no? I'll make the copper spray yalls call. Yes or no.

 

I vote no, since you're using graphite-coated gaskets. I only use copper spray/liquid sealant on uncoated shim gaskets.

 

ok no copper it is then. Last time I used the FelPro gaskets from autozone and everyone gave me **** about them so I got the GM gaskets this time around.

 

Good now send me my damn video CHARLES!!