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Help needed with Crank Position Sensor

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Old 10-25-2010, 10:44 AM
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Default Help needed with Crank Position Sensor

The Story:
Well guys to make a long story short, I removed my engine and replaced the whole rotating assembly with Texas speed 347 rotating assembly. Had a machine shop put it together. And all i did was put the engine on the K-member and hook it all back up.

The Problem:
The car does crank and run just very rich and it is undrivable .Now the problem is im getting the crank position sensor code even after i replaced the sensor and my rpm gauge is not working. So far ive check all the grounds they all seem good, and i think it might be the wiring harness. I know its a 3 wires, green yellow and black i think, what should the voltage be with the key on?
Thanks in advanced
Frank

Here A Vid of the idle:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbsWFe6ji8E

Last edited by w06gto; 11-09-2010 at 01:45 PM. Reason: Added info
Old 10-26-2010, 08:17 AM
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Bump At least some one tell me to search or something come on guys help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 10-26-2010, 08:56 AM
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is the reluctor wheel hitting the sensor ? is the spacing correct ? Did you perform a crank relearn ?
Old 10-26-2010, 09:11 AM
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If the tach isn't working, I would think it is a cam sensor not a crank sensor. That is where the tach picks up signal from. What is the number on the code you are seeing?

Jon
Old 10-28-2010, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jon@Texas-Speed
If the tach isn't working, I would think it is a cam sensor not a crank sensor. That is where the tach picks up signal from. What is the number on the code you are seeing?

Jon
The Code that i got was P0336 CPK Preformance
Old 10-28-2010, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by oange ss
is the reluctor wheel hitting the sensor ? is the spacing correct ? Did you perform a crank relearn ?
I don't know how would i check to see if the spacing is correct?
I have not preformed crank relearn on the car i was told it doesn't need to be done unless you change PCM
Thanks in advance
Frank
Old 10-29-2010, 02:59 PM
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Bump for the weekend someone let me know!!!!!!!!!!
Old 10-29-2010, 04:50 PM
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try a different sensor
Old 11-01-2010, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by oange ss
try a different sensor
I already did!

Does anyone Know how many volts i should be getting, key on to the wires going to Crank position sensor
Old 11-01-2010, 10:29 AM
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Shoot me your name you ordered the rotating kit under....I'd like to check on that crank and see if there's any chance the reluctor wheel could have been on there backwards (or you can check it visually if you take the pan off).
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:29 AM
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Got your PM, Frank, and shot you one back.
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:58 AM
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Bump Anyone??
Old 11-02-2010, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by w06gto
Bump Anyone??
Do you have the correct reluctor? 24x or 58x?
Old 11-02-2010, 01:11 PM
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^^Yea, we verified that one...brand new GM 3.622" 24x crank....I was hoping it'd be that easy!
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
^^Yea, we verified that one...brand new GM 3.622" 24x crank....I was hoping it'd be that easy!
Had to ask!
Old 11-02-2010, 02:13 PM
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Yea, I hear ya...like I said, I was really hoping it was going to be that easy!

A reluctor on backwards we have seen them just fire 4 cylinders of the 8 (1, 4, 6, and 7 or the other 4)...so no joy there either
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Last edited by Sales2@Texas-speed; 11-03-2010 at 10:43 AM.
Old 11-02-2010, 03:12 PM
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Acording to Elkyss, conditions for code , voltage is out of range for less than two seconds. It is a 12 volt sensor. If you have tried a new sensor and the reluctor wheel is undamaged then i am assuming maybe you pinched a wire and it gets low voltage for at least part of the time. That possibly could be the computer not puting out the correct voltage.
Also give some more info on the car. Year, did any tuning get done, did you change cam, heads,?????
Old 11-03-2010, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by youguessit
Acording to Elkyss, conditions for code , voltage is out of range for less than two seconds. It is a 12 volt sensor. If you have tried a new sensor and the reluctor wheel is undamaged then i am assuming maybe you pinched a wire and it gets low voltage for at least part of the time. That possibly could be the computer not puting out the correct voltage.
Also give some more info on the car. Year, did any tuning get done, did you change cam, heads,?????
Thanks for taking the time to help!
It is a 1999 Z28 Texas Speed rotating assembly, MS3 Cam, Stock 853 Heads milled 30 thousands, All new bolts gaskets pretty much new engine, and Texas speed mail order tune for the pcm that i got just to get it running and idling
What wire should read the voltage the green which is ignition voltage/ the blue wire witch is crank position signal/ or the yellow which is ref low?
I also changed the sensor with an after market one from discount auto parts

Last edited by w06gto; 11-03-2010 at 10:50 AM.
Old 11-03-2010, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by w06gto
The Story:
Well guys to make a long story short, I removed my engine and replaced the whole rotating assembly with Texas speed 347 rotating assembly. Had a machine shop put it together. And all i did was put the engine on the K-member and hook it all back up.

The Problem:
The car does crank and run just very rich and it is undrivable .Now the problem is im getting the crank position sensor code even after i replaced the sensor and my rpm gauge is not working. So far ive check all the grounds they all seem good, and i think it might be the wiring harness. I know its a 3 wires, green yellow and black i think, what should the voltage be with the key on?
Thanks in advanced
Frank
Are you getting crank position circuit code? I just went thur this on my car, pull the number one plug ground it have someone turn the motor over. If you do not have spark you have the 58x reluctor wheel. LPE sell the coinvertor box that you need to wire along with that you will need to buy the LS3 front timing cover, LS3 timing set with cam sprocket, and new cam position sensor.

Even if all the paper work say 24x on them doesnt mean that you dont have the 58x wheel. My crank came from Callies delivered from Scoggin Dickies, the box said 24x and my reciept said 24x well guess what. it was 58x it looked like a bike sprocket lots of teeth. you can visually inspect it with out taking the pan off.

disconnect the battery, drop starter, remove the 10mm bolt that holds the crank position sensor in, use a mirror with a flash light to look in the hole. You will tell right away, 58x has lots of teeth like a bike sprockets, 24x has long sperated teeth.

Not trying to bash anyone on here with that post either, o and no one was willing to work things out either!

Last edited by RsSean; 11-03-2010 at 10:46 AM.
Old 11-03-2010, 10:43 AM
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^^That's not the best or a full-proof test We've seen them fire #1, 4, 6, and 7 with the wrong wheel on there....we've also seen them fire the other 4 and not fire those.
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