getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I have been looking for a budget minded cam for my 01 WS6 that will be my DD for awhile and I'm very much about squeezing as much as I can from everything I modify and I would never just go with the "bigger is better" attitude. I have LT's,ORY,built T56/LS7 clutch,and the usual things like LID,ported stock T/B,drill mod. I got down to 13.1@105mph with just lid and street tires, then for over a year now I havnt been able to mod since the LT's,ORY, T56 build and I've got down to 12.7x@110mph, 12.49@112mph with 3500 launch on DR's and still not tuned. Well Its time to install a cam after I fab up some SFC's and get a aftermarket T/A and T/A girdle, I just installed 4.10 gears from a junkyard 7 5/8 s10 rear. The cam I wanted b4 it was a DD was a split duration around 222/226 .580 112LSA but now I want reliability and since the 4.10 gear I love the low end pull and really want a cam that makes solid power from 1500-63-6500 but I want the low LSA only for the bump. I am wanting to concentrate on heads also, either have my 241's port matched etc. for the cam I get or go with AFR's depending on how deep I wanna get into this. I bought LS2 yellow springs,retainers,locks rated to .570 lift but to be safe I dont want over .560 lift on the cam. I wish I could find a spec close to GMhotcam cam but with more lift. Something around 219/228 .551/.560 112 LSA. What do you all think would be the best bet for the valve springs I have and engine setup, gears, and also the big reason I'm doing this is because I am sending off for a mail order tune finally and dont want to have to come up with the money again after a cam swap, and to let people know...even if money wasnt an issue the best setup i'd go with and biggest cam would be PRC or equal dual springs and 224/224 .581 or 227/224, but its got to be under .560 lift.

xpensivehabit

Very top of the page in the middle....."Search"

garygnu

comp cam LSr cams ,or Damian had a nice cam that made great power.or get a custom cam.$150 for some pac1218 springs.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Why not get tuned by someone local rather than do the mail order thing? From what I read there are two places that tune fbodies local to St. Louis. P-2 Performance and Redline Performance.

Also it's too bad you don't want to go over .560 lift because I think this comp lsr cam would be pretty awesome.

Comp 54-456-11 219/227 .607/.614 112LSA 1500-6700

Also found these. Not sure if anyone still has the crane one in stock.
224/224 .551/.551 - 114LSA

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=2570

and

Comp 222/224 .566/.568 - 112LSA

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=160

or

Thunder racing also has the TR 220/220 which = .551/.551 on a 112 or 114LSA

http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...ain/Camshafts/

zacht

iTrader: (18)

Oh man.....im going to drop the EPS bomb....do one. Making amazing power without sacrificing valve train and drivability. Search some epa cams. Also I second the LSr cams.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

One piece of advice.

There is no need to freak out about cam sizes when your dealing with LSx stuff. The Specs people see are much different then standard SBC GENI stuff. 228/230 VRX4 cam from Vengence is considered small. Runs in the .580's for lift on 112 LSA.

When you start getting into the upper 230's and into the 240's then thats getting big for a stock cube, stock compression motor. Open up the cubic inches and even those cams get swallowed up and act more civil.

tittan1500

iTrader: (8)

that hurts to read.....

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I've searched for 2 months, im on a very small budget and if I cant do it right I wont do it but it can be done,its just over the 2 months checking classifieds daily the only cam close to any spec I want was a 212/218 truck cam, then its like theres none under 230 dur, .600 lift.....

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I'm glad theres 1 person that isnt saying 224 .560 cam is tiny and isnt worth it....I've researched a wholeee lot to where my friends hassle me for looking into every mod far too much but its the way to go. I see everyone wanting peak hp or whatever it be, I know the lift isnt a big issue either, i've seen test with a 230/232 .581/.581 112 LSA make 20ftlbs more trq from 2k-4k than the same 230/232 but it was .601/.614 113LSA and the peak hp was only 5rwhp difference. I have studied flow charts more than anything and it seems a stock CI LS1 with LS6 intake, ported 241's, headers wont gain much or lose much after lift is over .550 with the 01-02 LS1 from the F body since my cam is just .479 lift, the .550 jump is plenty, its the duration I dont want to go over 228, that seems like the point where they start tearing up valvetrains and the tunes get complicated. The fasest LS1 with the setup like I just explained that I have seen in person ran 10.80's N/A with a 229/226 .581/.581 114+2, it was an A4 with 3800 stall and wasnt over done at all.

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

Yea I can get er done a little too much in detail sometimes lol

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

There is plenty of places to tune around here that do a good job but since I lost my "real job" I have no way of even thinking about things like that and as long as I can keep paying my car payment/ins I will keep this car and do what I can do to make it do what I can with what $ make without half assing it. 2 years ago right after I installed my headers etc. I was going to have it dyno tuned but it was $450 and I got laid off b4 I even got the car together and thats when the entire US hit the fan lol....I got used to believing id never make even close to 20-30 bucks an hr again and gave up until recently when I got a decent job offer and I am starting work again this week. I still have read so much about tunes that it seems the frost mail order tunes could be better than a dyno tune and its $150 compaired to $450, I've had 2 buddys get very very bad tunes in the past year by local shops and they blame it on them getting too big of cam with stock CI and stock heads, one of them broke a piston and it only put down 380rwhp with a 238/241 .610/.614 113lsa custom comp, I was beating him in every street race also up till then, both have T56. I like the 220 .581 but if I have to go with PAC or other .600 springs I would just go with something around 226/224 .581/.581 112lsa, I just dont see why theres no for example 224/228 with lower lift like .560-.550 for people that dont need the big lift, to me the flow and dyno charts dont show a big difference after .550 lift with stock CI, stock head motor. I am not looking for HUGE HP or any dyno #'s, I just want 500-600 more rpms per gear and some big pull difference and a cam that I can drive 500 miles a week on, yea I drive 500mi per week.

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

Amazing power I dont care for at all, I just cant stand valve floating at 5,800 and redline @6k especially now with 4.10's. I always heard 01-02 with the 6.0 truck cam like I have .479 lift 197dur has even gained 50rwhp with full exhaust and a hotcam when a 98-00 with full exhaust and hotcam only would gain 25-30rwhp. I drive 500mi a day and soon as I get going a few months on this new job It will be a weekend warrior again but I will never over do a vehicle again while I still owe a lot of money on it, and I've put of any mods for 2yrs for money issues and I was going to get PAC .600 springs and go with a mid 220's dur .581 lift cam until I got a really good deal on LS2 yellow springs-$40 with retainers,locks. I'd put a LS6 cam in if I had to, anything to pull past 5,500rpm! I will be able to do it for under $200 total minus tune, and people said I couldnt put in 4.10's for under $300 and I did it for $75 and paid a shop $20 to press/pull pinion bearing. Theres a lot of us out here that wont give up their LS1's cause a job was taken from them and i'm one of them and it is so nice to run better than a guy that pays for his work or that joe dirt rigs his 4th gen and it runs great till his lack of precision measuring skills/tools bites him in the *** and breaks while im still putting solid times down. People think money grows on trees....

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I'm a laid off person or I was until this week, I shoulda been more specific, If I had the money to get the good stuff I would, and if your thinking "just dont do the mods if you dont have the $" well I have done that and do you have a clue what its like to do that for 2yrs all the while hoping either someone totalled your car out or eventually the payment was down to where u could sell it and not owe? Well I've managed to get within .5 tenths from 11's with just DR's and a 3k launch no suspension or tune, 12.70 on fuzion tires 3.42's idle takeoff, I dont know how but I did because I researched ways to go fast that most wouldnt bother with and fabbed things that most would buy,like p/s pump went out and I almost had to sell the car since it was $50 for a pump and $90 for a reservoir, well I paid the $50 and then fabbed a bracket/remote reservoir, then I found one on ebay for $10 a month later, but thats what i've done for 2yrs now and the car beats my buddys SS that he had $9k in work done with just 238/242 .601/.614 113lsa,4.10's,46lbhr injectors,Fast 102mm, I put money into building my t56 so I hit my gears unlike him and I did my headers and gears for $400 compaired to his $800"same headers both bought new" and $600 for his 4.10 w/install to my $75. I'm not an idiot and I dont know it all, I went to a tech college and took up welding instead and yea I was jobless awhile but its nuts to pay $10k for cam/heads when used they r $2k, you people and your huge cam and bigger is better and a used set of 4.10's or used cam isnt worth the effort I wish you people would lose your jobs and get a taste of real life. Thanks to the people that tried actually helping, I guess theres nowhere to find a used LS cam under .560 lift 228 duration lol

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Good heads & cam with all recommended hardware isnt even close to 10k, who told you this? Not gonna get it for 2K either, unless its used.
Um, the cam you are trying to find is TINY! Not many buy a cam that small, thats why youre having sooo much trouble. IMO new parts you have less trouble, problems & headache.
Quit bragging about your abilities when the thing you posted about isnt that far out of reach, except the fact that you are unemployed & a cheap *** anyway from the sounds of it.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Cam Lobe technology has changed greatly over the past decade so those gains are subjective. As for track results, Automatic cars run faster.

garygnu

comp 54-408-11.

SSCamaro99_3

iTrader: (1)

I made 381/373 on stock heads and a small cam.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

If you're unemployed don't buy car parts.

You're talking about possibly buying high dollar heads but too cheap to get good valve springs?

Sounds like you should just get a ls6 cam or something.

Bocefus

iTrader: (17)

Why not just buy a used Hotcam or ASA cam?

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

While it's amazing how modern electronics and the latest tuning can tame the enormous cams, that doesn't make a mild cam inferior for all apps. Most guys on this forum either never saw, or forgot, the results from various tests of the Lunati VooDoo 212/218 113+4 531/531 cam. Okay, it peaked at 5800, and was done by 6200, but it improved on the Ls6 cam just as much at 3000 as it did at 5800. Yet these guys bash these cams, and call them "baby" and "tiny".
I say go to this page, and click on the link to the dyno graph for their 224-112 cam. The lift is what you're asking for, the powerband will be great with your gears, and they sold enough of these that you should be able to find a used one. http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...-Cams_947.html
I don't see any need for a dual-pattern or reverse-split cam in your car. If you find a deal on something like this, try it. Plus with a grind like this, the tunes were figured out years ago, so a mail-order tune is a safer proposal.