ronnjonn

I'm sure we've all seen the pics of the DIY honing, typically using the hone called either a "dingle-ball" or "bottle-brush"
I've used one, successfully, they're very easy and safe. But they're nothing like a Sunnen CK-10 that many machine shops have been using for decades.
I'm sure most of you will insist your honing be done on a Sunnen or similar.
But this time, I honed my LM7 block with the "3-finger" or "3-stone" style.
It's much cheaper.
Now, before pics, I thought mineral spirits were clear. But when I poured these, they were white.
In the first pic you'll see what all you need to copy me.

I think I took that pic after doing a cylinder. This next one, I'm sure was after I had done a cylinder.

and closer in

ronnjonn

This was more difficult than the other style of hone in having to be more careful about plunging too far, or pulling too far. I dinged the stones a wee bit.
It's also more difficult in adjusting the pre-load spring. I knew I didn't want coil bind, just like valvesprings, but I ran it relatively close:

ronnjonn

I ran the drill at about half speed, and I ran my arms near full speed, to get the cross hatch angle I found in there from GM. Lots of try-it-and-see. I had to dip the hone in the spirits about 3-4 times per cylinder.
This next pic is about 5 seconds in:


Then I finished one side, wiped them all out, and sprayed the WD40

ronnjonn

There were some stains that wouldn't hone away, but they weren't a problem for HotRod's 1200-HP 4.8L, so I'm not stressing.

ronnjonn

After all 8 were done, here's how my stones were:

idle

iTrader: (5)

I like it! What does this accomplish as far as power/reliability is concerned? I'm pretty unfamiliar with this... but looks DIY-able!

ronnjonn

Not counting the drill or electricity, nor the safety glasses, but with 1/2 the cost of the hone, (it should do another V8 yet) 1/2 the spirits, (didn't need that big a quantity)the scotch brite pad and the paper towels, the cost was $20.
As I was wiping the table off, I was able to get an idea of how much iron and stone I had removed.

ronnjonn

Well, If the cylinders have rust, this will prevent damage to the rings. But the basic idea is to restore the ring seal.
I'm not clear on how many miles this should extend the life of the standard-bore, probably not as long as a power hone on a Sunnen, but this is sure to be better than just running it the way I got it, with probably around 100,000 miles on it.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Your next post will be asking why your engine makes no power and/or drinks a case of oil between changes.

Cuts are way too deep into the wall surface. Good luck anyway.

ronnjonn

Oh, yeah, that's real bright. Don't even ask what grit the stones are, or how the pre-load on this compares with the pre-load of the Sunnen. Just start with your criticism.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Ruthless,



but, i'd have to agree that you might have gotten a little over-aggressive with the hone-job. I hope it doesnt come back to bite you in the ***.


Props for doing it yourself! I'm also not sure i would have use some of those stones....they've seen better days.

ronnjonn

Thanks, very decent of you.

cause4panic

iTrader: (2)

should have used ATF to lubricate.

ronnjonn

Why? The machine shop told me to use the mineral spirits.

tim99ws6

iTrader: (31)

Same here. The detergents in the ATF are a must have from what my guy told me. I will say, go back and clean out the cylinders one more time with ATF just to make sure they are clean before you assemble. I bet the paper towel comes out dirty... :-)

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

Congrats for having the guts to try it yourself, but I'll stick with the Sunnen with the torque plate

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

Mineral spirits? Are you sure they didn't tell you to use that for cleaning after honing? On every engine I have ever honed I used 30w oil but everyone is different when it comes to prep and assembly on their engine. As for the 3-stone it is a little aggressive to use for finish honing. It is best to get a rough hone at the shop and then finish hone to the bore size you are looking for at home.

The only time I use a 3-stone is to cut through rust and what not on an old core I am building to get a good start and to see if an overbore is necessary.

The bottle/ball/dingle hone is the best(my opinion) for actual finish before assembly. Not to mention, i have over 12 engine builds on a single hone and its still going.

ronnjonn

Like you had to type that? Like anyone doesn't realize you're a rich guy, working at a shop that has a Sunnen? Wealthy people have NO right to condemn nor criticize the efforts of those with lesser resources.

ronnjonn

You like oil or ATF? Use oil or ATF. You don't have to do everything my way. No one can force you.
I do agree with you on the choice of hone, but I couldn't until I had tried both.

Sales2@Texas-speed

iTrader: (5)

LOL, I drive a 1994 Nissan Altima that usually doesn't start, leaks oil like a sieve, has hail damage all over it, and is missing a rear view mirror. That paired with two kids and a wife = me broke as a joke

The extra cost associated with the new rings alone that will be purchased when this one is consuming crazy amounts of oil and needs a rebuild will come close to offsetting the cost of getting the work done by a machine shop.