inssanity21

iTrader: (16)

I just got my tune scheduled for the 25th. Got the SNS stage 3, stock 243 heads, fast 92/92, 25% under drive pulley, ARH 1 7/8 headers, monster stage 2 w/18 lb fly wheel, and a tick master. I cannot wait to get this done I wanna drive the car! Should have numbers by mid august after the clutch break in.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Should be a strong performer for sure!!! I need to get an invite to one of these "get togethers" you're taking these avatar pictures at....



Thought I'd post this link in here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post17536252
Another VERY strong performing SNS Stage 2 set-up!!!

camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

Martin, Ive been reading A LOT of your cams. I have a some questions. What are differences in LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 camshaft vs SNS torqueMAX Stage 2? Ive sent you my set up in an email but just to help others out that may be in my same situation.


For the people that dont read. Here is my current set up.

AI 243's 226cc
AI Fast 92mm
Trex v2.
Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)
dual Patriot Gold Valvesprings and Ti Retainers (replacing because trex)
ls2 Timing chain
ls6 ported oil pump
Ls7 Lifters. (going to replace due to around 4k miles with trex)
Stock rockers.
Stock Maf
92mm TB
SLP Lid
Ram HD clutch
Moser 9 4.30 gears.
TSP True duals
Hooker headers

Parts I have in Sig. I did have my pistions fly cut. 2.100-2.200 diameter, .100-.120 deep on the intake side and 1.65-1.80 exhaust with a CR at 11.1.

I will be getting new lifters and different springs for the reason for me pulling the trex is because of possible liter/spring noise and Im not talking a chance on it. Being a trex Cam owner and DD this thing. Id like to lose the Bucking and the surging. Also Id like to bump up the Tq. that is were the trex cam really lacks.

So in a nutshell Id like to have more tq and a smoother ride. A cam that is easy on my Valve Train. I do like a nice choppy idle and both cams seems to do that. Also You recommend me to get the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 Camshaft.. What are the differences between the LS2 street heat vs the Ls1 cam??? Or would you recommend a custom grind cam. OR do you have a FI cam that would give me similar results and characteristics just in case I wanted to pro charge later down the road. I hope this helps others.

And once again Thank you Martin

Raxus GTO

iTrader: (1)

Did you have to send AI your fast 92, or were they able to source one? I didnt even really consider porting the fast 92, but I also dont see an option for a new 92 with a port job. I was going to order it through TSP, but if AI could source it for me and port it, I would probably consider it for a little more money.

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

Martin, you got me thinking with regards to the HP Syris made in the other post.

If he had of run on a dynojet, what do you think his mustang dyno to dynoject corrected numbers be?

He was at 447HP and 395 TQ on a Mustang dyno.

Thanks,

Q

camarodude87

iTrader: (8)

I just sent them my fast that I already had. And why not spend the coin if you plan on squeezing out hp. Awesome guys at AI. I'd do it over again

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

I purchased my Vengance Ported FAST 92 along with a NW TB last week and it is scheduled for delivery this Friday. I think they have some kind of special going on right now on the porting. The turn around time was great!

Q

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I'm Nate (Rise of the Phoenix). I'm not sure what the guy's name is that has the other thread you're referring to. My car goes on the dyno next week. I'm hoping for 440 to 450 rwhp and over 400 rwtq with this cam and the mods in my sig.

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

Thanks..I made the correction

Good luck on the dyno!

Q

BigDaddy0381

iTrader: (7)

The run down.

2004 Z71
Lq4 block .030 over (370) with Flat tops pistons no relive
block decked .018
317 heads milled .008 and valve job
.040 gaskets
223/231 .610"/.617" 110+2 Tick Performance "SNS" torqueMAX Stage 1
Brian tooley double springs and tooled hardware.
LS2 Chain
GM LS Rocker Arms
Comp Trunnion Upgrade Kit
LS7 Lifters
LS2 Trays
head studs
Manley 7.400" Pushrods
circle D 3000 stall
4L80e
4.88 gears
35x12.50R17
tru-cool tranny cooler
magnaflow single in dual out 2.5
pacesetter headers with Y pipe no cats/ and lose pipe ( or sounds like it)

so far it runs strong only 100 miles on it so far, what oil would be good o run it this set up? I running 5w30 brad penn grade 1

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Brad Penn is a great oil. If you want something a little cheaper and more readily available though, try Valvoline Conventional VR1 10w-30.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

From my aspect it's a very clear difference, as I look at camshafts in terms of valve events. Not duration and LSA.

Comparing the two we get these events:
SNS Stage 2 LS1 227-235 110+3

6.5
40.5
50.5
4.5

LS2 Street Heat Stage 2

6.5
46.5
54.5
6.0

Just looking at the intake valve close event of the SNS Stage 2, I can come to the conclusion that it will make more torque under 5000rpm versus the LS2 SH Stage 2. I can also look at the exhaust valve opening event of the SNS Stage 2 and come to the conclusion that it will also make more peak torque than the Street Heat Stage 2.

Now looking at the events of the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2, the first thing that jumps out at me is the intake valve close event. It's 6 degrees later than the SNS Stage 2, which means it will carry torque further into the RPM range making a higher peak horsepower figure, but less bottom end power. I can look at the intake valve open and exhaust valve close event and see that this profile carries a fair amount of valve overlap so I know it will still make good torque under the curve if compression is adjusted for the added overlap and later intake valve closing event. It still will not make the torque of the SNS Stage 2 even with added compression though.

With CNC ported heads, and good compression the LS2 Stage 2 SH camshaft can make great average power and under the curve power, but it will never make what the SNS Stage 2 does just due to valve events and pumping losses that are the result of holding the valves open longer.

That said, with the LS2 SH Stage 2 making more peak power, if the compression is right, gearing is right, stall converter is right along with everything else regarding the combination it will be the faster cam on the track. For a street car though that doesn't care about making a big number on the dyno or being the fastest car at the track, the SNS Stage 2 is the winner. Without everything being perfectly set-up for a larger cam, the SNS Stage 2 will always be faster. Even with everything perfect for the larger cam, the SNS Stage 2 will hang right there with it with CNC stock castings or aftermarket heads.

It really is an awesome all around camshaft.

The LS1 Street Heat Stage 2 camshaft is intended for lighter vehicles like a Corvette that do not need as much torque under the curve to allow for a quick E.T. at the drag strip or on the street. It has a later intake valve closing event and a early exhaust valve opening event to shift the power curve higher so that traction is not as much of an issue like it would be in a Vette or lightweight LS swap vehicle. It also drives very well as it only has 8.5 degrees of overlap.

That said, with good compression it can also make good torque under the curve. It will still be out powered under the curve by the LS2 SH Stage 2 in the same set-up due to the LS2 versions later exhaust valve opening event.

The LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 cam was meant for guys wanting 400-415rwhp cam-only while still retaining a solid torque curve. It is good for heavier vehicles because of this, but works well in lighter corvettes as well.

I have a guy with a 97 C5 with the oldest crappiest LS1 heads made, LS6 intake, catted x-pipe, LT headers and exhaust with the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 cam that made 416rwhp/394rwtq on a dyno jet cam only.
I will tell you like I tell most of my other customers Sean. Comparing dyno numbers from a Mustang Dyno and comparing them to a dyno jet is a bad idea. Mustang Dyno's along with a few other eddy current dynos can be manipulated very easily into a false reading. Since they take into account aerodynamics, weight and drag for their horsepower calculations it's very easy to fudge those figures and pump out a false reading. Say you have a car that really weighs 3800lbs., but you tell the dyno it weighs 2800, you will end up with a higher number than what should be registered due to less load being placed on the rollers.

I am in NO way discrediting the shop that dyno'd Syris' car, I am merely stating though that it's not a good idea to compare from a Mustang Dyno to a Dyno Jet. It's not a good idea to compare Dyno Jet to Dyno Jet as every single dyno reads differently, and even the same dyno can give you a different number on a different day. Dyno's are a tuning tool and nothing more.

I think you should be looking for anywhere between 450-470rwhp/415-430rwtq on a Dyno Jet.

Qfly

iTrader: (1)

Copy all Martin and thanks for the explanation.

I am pretty excited about this project and am sure the car will make a ton of hp and tq!



Q

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I think it will too Sean. Good luck.

BigDaddy0381

iTrader: (7)

what about a brad penn 10w-40? is it s myth on roller lifters not pick up synthetic oil as good as conventional oil with it being so slick?

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Never heard of that one before. We use conventional oil in 95% of the vehicles that come through our shop. Valvoline VR1 to be exact. I don't see anything wrong with 10w-40, but I'd run the weight oil that your builder recommends based of clearances in your engine.

StormTrooperZ06

I'm in the process of installing my sns stage 3 cam! Just waiting for some parts to arrive! Want to hear the darn chopping sound lol

BigDaddy0381

iTrader: (7)

There basically factory clearances bearing wise. I'll grab some VR1 conventional and see how she dose.

RyderTA

iTrader: (3)

Got my SNS stage 2 milder installed Friday night and it sounds awesome! I only have a starter tune based off a previous car I built with a similar sized cam but it drives great, with just a simple tune it doesn't surge in neighborhoods or parking lots as long as i'm above 1000 rpm's. It pulls strong and feels great, i'm very pleased with this cam so far and can't wait to see what it does with a full street/dyno tune. Thanks Martin!

darkvader0

I read through this whole thing and don't think I saw it asked anywhere, so I will ask now.

What is the difference in "philosophy" between the Street Heat cams and these SNS? I'm torn between the Street Heat stg 2 and SNS stg 2. I understand what the goals were with the SNS cams. What about the Street Heat ones?