New cams from Tick Performance


Thought I'd post this link in here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...l#post17536252
Another VERY strong performing SNS Stage 2 set-up!!!
For the people that dont read. Here is my current set up.
AI 243's 226cc
AI Fast 92mm
Trex v2.
Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)
dual Patriot Gold Valvesprings and Ti Retainers (replacing because trex)
ls2 Timing chain
ls6 ported oil pump
Ls7 Lifters. (going to replace due to around 4k miles with trex)
Stock rockers.
Stock Maf
92mm TB
SLP Lid
Ram HD clutch
Moser 9 4.30 gears.
TSP True duals
Hooker headers
Parts I have in Sig. I did have my pistions fly cut. 2.100-2.200 diameter, .100-.120 deep on the intake side and 1.65-1.80 exhaust with a CR at 11.1.
I will be getting new lifters and different springs for the reason for me pulling the trex is because of possible liter/spring noise and Im not talking a chance on it. Being a trex Cam owner and DD this thing. Id like to lose the Bucking and the surging. Also Id like to bump up the Tq. that is were the trex cam really lacks.
So in a nutshell Id like to have more tq and a smoother ride. A cam that is easy on my Valve Train. I do like a nice choppy idle and both cams seems to do that. Also You recommend me to get the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 Camshaft.. What are the differences between the LS2 street heat vs the Ls1 cam??? Or would you recommend a custom grind cam. OR do you have a FI cam that would give me similar results and characteristics just in case I wanted to pro charge later down the road. I hope this helps others.
And once again Thank you Martin
For the people that dont read. Here is my current set up.
AI 243's 226cc
AI Fast 92mm
Trex v2.
Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)
dual Patriot Gold Valvesprings and Ti Retainers (replacing because trex)
ls2 Timing chain
ls6 ported oil pump
Ls7 Lifters. (going to replace due to around 4k miles with trex)
Stock rockers.
Stock Maf
92mm TB
SLP Lid
Ram HD clutch
Moser 9 4.30 gears.
TSP True duals
Hooker headers
Parts I have in Sig. I did have my pistions fly cut. 2.100-2.200 diameter, .100-.120 deep on the intake side and 1.65-1.80 exhaust with a CR at 11.1.
I will be getting new lifters and different springs for the reason for me pulling the trex is because of possible liter/spring noise and Im not talking a chance on it. Being a trex Cam owner and DD this thing. Id like to lose the Bucking and the surging. Also Id like to bump up the Tq. that is were the trex cam really lacks.
So in a nutshell Id like to have more tq and a smoother ride. A cam that is easy on my Valve Train. I do like a nice choppy idle and both cams seems to do that. Also You recommend me to get the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 Camshaft.. What are the differences between the LS2 street heat vs the Ls1 cam??? Or would you recommend a custom grind cam. OR do you have a FI cam that would give me similar results and characteristics just in case I wanted to pro charge later down the road. I hope this helps others.
And once again Thank you Martin
If he had of run on a dynojet, what do you think his mustang dyno to dynoject corrected numbers be?
He was at 447HP and 395 TQ on a Mustang dyno.
Thanks,
Q
Last edited by Qfly; Jul 11, 2013 at 09:31 AM.
Q
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

Good luck on the dyno!
Q
2004 Z71
Lq4 block .030 over (370) with Flat tops pistons no relive
block decked .018
317 heads milled .008 and valve job
.040 gaskets
223/231 .610"/.617" 110+2 Tick Performance "SNS" torqueMAX Stage 1
Brian tooley double springs and tooled hardware.
LS2 Chain
GM LS Rocker Arms
Comp Trunnion Upgrade Kit
LS7 Lifters
LS2 Trays
head studs
Manley 7.400" Pushrods
circle D 3000 stall
4L80e
4.88 gears
35x12.50R17
tru-cool tranny cooler
magnaflow single in dual out 2.5
pacesetter headers with Y pipe no cats/ and lose pipe ( or sounds like it)
so far it runs strong only 100 miles on it so far, what oil would be good o run it this set up? I running 5w30 brad penn grade 1
For the people that dont read. Here is my current set up.
AI 243's 226cc
AI Fast 92mm
Trex v2.
Thunder Racing Pushrods (7.400)
dual Patriot Gold Valvesprings and Ti Retainers (replacing because trex)
ls2 Timing chain
ls6 ported oil pump
Ls7 Lifters. (going to replace due to around 4k miles with trex)
Stock rockers.
Stock Maf
92mm TB
SLP Lid
Ram HD clutch
Moser 9 4.30 gears.
TSP True duals
Hooker headers
Parts I have in Sig. I did have my pistions fly cut. 2.100-2.200 diameter, .100-.120 deep on the intake side and 1.65-1.80 exhaust with a CR at 11.1.
I will be getting new lifters and different springs for the reason for me pulling the trex is because of possible liter/spring noise and Im not talking a chance on it. Being a trex Cam owner and DD this thing. Id like to lose the Bucking and the surging. Also Id like to bump up the Tq. that is were the trex cam really lacks.
So in a nutshell Id like to have more tq and a smoother ride. A cam that is easy on my Valve Train. I do like a nice choppy idle and both cams seems to do that. Also You recommend me to get the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 Camshaft.. What are the differences between the LS2 street heat vs the Ls1 cam??? Or would you recommend a custom grind cam. OR do you have a FI cam that would give me similar results and characteristics just in case I wanted to pro charge later down the road. I hope this helps others.
And once again Thank you Martin
Comparing the two we get these events:
SNS Stage 2 LS1 227-235 110+3
6.5
40.5
50.5
4.5
LS2 Street Heat Stage 2
6.5
46.5
54.5
6.0
Just looking at the intake valve close event of the SNS Stage 2, I can come to the conclusion that it will make more torque under 5000rpm versus the LS2 SH Stage 2. I can also look at the exhaust valve opening event of the SNS Stage 2 and come to the conclusion that it will also make more peak torque than the Street Heat Stage 2.
Now looking at the events of the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2, the first thing that jumps out at me is the intake valve close event. It's 6 degrees later than the SNS Stage 2, which means it will carry torque further into the RPM range making a higher peak horsepower figure, but less bottom end power. I can look at the intake valve open and exhaust valve close event and see that this profile carries a fair amount of valve overlap so I know it will still make good torque under the curve if compression is adjusted for the added overlap and later intake valve closing event. It still will not make the torque of the SNS Stage 2 even with added compression though.
With CNC ported heads, and good compression the LS2 Stage 2 SH camshaft can make great average power and under the curve power, but it will never make what the SNS Stage 2 does just due to valve events and pumping losses that are the result of holding the valves open longer.
That said, with the LS2 SH Stage 2 making more peak power, if the compression is right, gearing is right, stall converter is right along with everything else regarding the combination it will be the faster cam on the track. For a street car though that doesn't care about making a big number on the dyno or being the fastest car at the track, the SNS Stage 2 is the winner. Without everything being perfectly set-up for a larger cam, the SNS Stage 2 will always be faster. Even with everything perfect for the larger cam, the SNS Stage 2 will hang right there with it with CNC stock castings or aftermarket heads.
It really is an awesome all around camshaft.
The LS1 Street Heat Stage 2 camshaft is intended for lighter vehicles like a Corvette that do not need as much torque under the curve to allow for a quick E.T. at the drag strip or on the street. It has a later intake valve closing event and a early exhaust valve opening event to shift the power curve higher so that traction is not as much of an issue like it would be in a Vette or lightweight LS swap vehicle. It also drives very well as it only has 8.5 degrees of overlap.
That said, with good compression it can also make good torque under the curve. It will still be out powered under the curve by the LS2 SH Stage 2 in the same set-up due to the LS2 versions later exhaust valve opening event.
The LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 cam was meant for guys wanting 400-415rwhp cam-only while still retaining a solid torque curve. It is good for heavier vehicles because of this, but works well in lighter corvettes as well.
I have a guy with a 97 C5 with the oldest crappiest LS1 heads made, LS6 intake, catted x-pipe, LT headers and exhaust with the LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 cam that made 416rwhp/394rwtq on a dyno jet cam only.
I am in NO way discrediting the shop that dyno'd Syris' car, I am merely stating though that it's not a good idea to compare from a Mustang Dyno to a Dyno Jet. It's not a good idea to compare Dyno Jet to Dyno Jet as every single dyno reads differently, and even the same dyno can give you a different number on a different day. Dyno's are a tuning tool and nothing more.
I think you should be looking for anywhere between 450-470rwhp/415-430rwtq on a Dyno Jet.
Last edited by Sales@Tick; Jul 12, 2013 at 10:54 AM.
What is the difference in "philosophy" between the Street Heat cams and these SNS? I'm torn between the Street Heat stg 2 and SNS stg 2. I understand what the goals were with the SNS cams. What about the Street Heat ones?






