New cams from Tick Performance
TECH Enthusiast
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Doug
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
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I've been sent this direction from the CTS-V section. I've got an 04 that I sent in for a rebuild after losing my oil pump and fearing internal damage after finding metal shavings in my pan. I don't have much time these days to mess with anything. Especially rebuild status.
They pulled my cam and it was pretty chewed up. So I'm cam shopping!
The other mods on the car are;
dum* Spec stage 3+ clutch
* Katech short throw
* BMR anti hop kit
* K&N intake
* Patriot heads
* Titanium valvesdum
* Dual valve springs
* Lingefelter 160* statdum
* Custom built plug wires
* Pacesetter headers
* Full 3" true duals
I had a GX3 242/112 in it, and it pulled pretty hard. What would be your guys suggestions to replace it with?
They pulled my cam and it was pretty chewed up. So I'm cam shopping!
The other mods on the car are;
dum* Spec stage 3+ clutch
* Katech short throw
* BMR anti hop kit
* K&N intake
* Patriot heads
* Titanium valvesdum
* Dual valve springs
* Lingefelter 160* statdum
* Custom built plug wires
* Pacesetter headers
* Full 3" true duals
I had a GX3 242/112 in it, and it pulled pretty hard. What would be your guys suggestions to replace it with?
Might be interested in going to a larger cam in my car. I have a 2000 C5 with a stock shortblock (80k miles), PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads (not sure if they are milled or not, they were in the car when I bought it), FAST 92/90, longtubes/no cats. Stock 3.42 gears. I drive the car quite a bit in the summer, usually as a daily-driver-type thing, highway cruising, etc, but occasionally there will be an accelleration comparison on the weekend. Currently have a 228R (228/228, .588/.588) on a 112. I believe the heads still have the PRC dual springs. I would like a cam that's relatively easy on valvetrain.
Which cam that you sell would work best with these heads/intake combo? I realize that a set of 3.90/4.10 gears would be beneficial but I don't want to change them at this time. I want maximum midrange tq as well as a strong pull to a 6700rpm-ish shift point, plus a more pronounced idle lope that I have now. I have a good local tuner that I'm confident can get driveability good with a larger camshaft.
Maybe the Stage 3 Torquemax with the less-aggressive lobes?
Which cam that you sell would work best with these heads/intake combo? I realize that a set of 3.90/4.10 gears would be beneficial but I don't want to change them at this time. I want maximum midrange tq as well as a strong pull to a 6700rpm-ish shift point, plus a more pronounced idle lope that I have now. I have a good local tuner that I'm confident can get driveability good with a larger camshaft.
Maybe the Stage 3 Torquemax with the less-aggressive lobes?
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 7,480
Likes: 18
From: Mount Airy, NC
5-8rwhp. The way I look at it is when you're installing a cam it's right there in front of you.
Our SNS Stage 3 cam (235/243 .621"/.624" 111+2) would be a perfect replacement for your G5X3 camshaft.
I would go with our LS2 Stage 3 which is 235/239 .621"/.624" 112+2 for your upgrade. It has 13 degrees of overlap so it isn't as aggressive as the Stage 3 LS1 SNS cam or the Polluter, but will be a nice upgrade to what you have now. We also offer it on the mild lobes as well!
I've been sent this direction from the CTS-V section. I've got an 04 that I sent in for a rebuild after losing my oil pump and fearing internal damage after finding metal shavings in my pan. I don't have much time these days to mess with anything. Especially rebuild status.
They pulled my cam and it was pretty chewed up. So I'm cam shopping!
The other mods on the car are;
dum* Spec stage 3+ clutch
* Katech short throw
* BMR anti hop kit
* K&N intake
* Patriot heads
* Titanium valvesdum
* Dual valve springs
* Lingefelter 160* statdum
* Custom built plug wires
* Pacesetter headers
* Full 3" true duals
I had a GX3 242/112 in it, and it pulled pretty hard. What would be your guys suggestions to replace it with?
They pulled my cam and it was pretty chewed up. So I'm cam shopping!
The other mods on the car are;
dum* Spec stage 3+ clutch
* Katech short throw
* BMR anti hop kit
* K&N intake
* Patriot heads
* Titanium valvesdum
* Dual valve springs
* Lingefelter 160* statdum
* Custom built plug wires
* Pacesetter headers
* Full 3" true duals
I had a GX3 242/112 in it, and it pulled pretty hard. What would be your guys suggestions to replace it with?
Might be interested in going to a larger cam in my car. I have a 2000 C5 with a stock shortblock (80k miles), PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads (not sure if they are milled or not, they were in the car when I bought it), FAST 92/90, longtubes/no cats. Stock 3.42 gears. I drive the car quite a bit in the summer, usually as a daily-driver-type thing, highway cruising, etc, but occasionally there will be an accelleration comparison on the weekend. Currently have a 228R (228/228, .588/.588) on a 112. I believe the heads still have the PRC dual springs. I would like a cam that's relatively easy on valvetrain.
Which cam that you sell would work best with these heads/intake combo? I realize that a set of 3.90/4.10 gears would be beneficial but I don't want to change them at this time. I want maximum midrange tq as well as a strong pull to a 6700rpm-ish shift point, plus a more pronounced idle lope that I have now. I have a good local tuner that I'm confident can get driveability good with a larger camshaft.
Maybe the Stage 3 Torquemax with the less-aggressive lobes?
Which cam that you sell would work best with these heads/intake combo? I realize that a set of 3.90/4.10 gears would be beneficial but I don't want to change them at this time. I want maximum midrange tq as well as a strong pull to a 6700rpm-ish shift point, plus a more pronounced idle lope that I have now. I have a good local tuner that I'm confident can get driveability good with a larger camshaft.
Maybe the Stage 3 Torquemax with the less-aggressive lobes?
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Awesome! Thanks so much for the reply. I'll probably order one
tonight. My only other question would is, I was told because the V is heavier, your stage 2 may give me better performance. I've not had much experience, so hopefully you could help me make my mind up between the Stage 2 and Stage 3 you guys offer.
tonight. My only other question would is, I was told because the V is heavier, your stage 2 may give me better performance. I've not had much experience, so hopefully you could help me make my mind up between the Stage 2 and Stage 3 you guys offer.
Hi Martin. It was me that sent him here from the V subforum. I thought you might rec the Stage 2 like you did for me. I think he's looking for the optimal cam for his setup, not necessarily a replacement for the G5X3.
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 7,480
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From: Mount Airy, NC
Peak horsepower will be higher with ls1 stage 3 as will torque above 5000rpm compared to the stage 2. If you're willing to lose 10-12rwhp with the stage 2 it is a nicer driving cam and makes much more low end torque. It also responds great to compression and cnc ported cylinder heads.
I see, then I agree that if I were given the choice myself to choose a cam for a cts-v that the ls1 stage 2 would be my choice.
Peak horsepower will be higher with ls1 stage 3 as will torque above 5000rpm compared to the stage 2. If you're willing to lose 10-12rwhp with the stage 2 it is a nicer driving cam and makes much more low end torque. It also responds great to compression and cnc ported cylinder heads.
Peak horsepower will be higher with ls1 stage 3 as will torque above 5000rpm compared to the stage 2. If you're willing to lose 10-12rwhp with the stage 2 it is a nicer driving cam and makes much more low end torque. It also responds great to compression and cnc ported cylinder heads.
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FormerVendor
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From: Mount Airy, NC
Since a manual transmission has no slip, and if you go WOT with a M6 in any gear at any rpm the car is going to start accelerating from that RPM and then of course rise in RPM from there. With a stalled A4 or A3 with a 3600 + stall speed, if you go WOT with that set-up you will instantly see 3600 rpm's or more because of the stall's flash speed.
With that taken into account, the LS1 Stage 2 with it's smaller intake duration and earlier intake valve close event will make more torque at a lower RPM than the LS2 Stage 2. The LS1 Stage 2 closes the intake valve at 40.5 degrees after bottom dead center where as the LS2 Stage 2 closes the intake valve at 44.5 degrees after bottom dead center. This will move the peak RPM that torque and horsepower occur at up, along with the RPM it begins to produce "put you back into your seat torque". Because of this, the LS2 Stage 2 is well suited for a stalled automatic with a 3600+ stall over the LS1 Stage 2. You will never notice the loss of torque under 3600 rpm with the LS2 Stage 2 because the flash speed of the stall will put you above 3600 rpm every time you go WOT. Thus why the LS1 Stage 2 with its smaller intake duration, further advanced ICL and earlier intake valve closing event are better suited for a M6 or a stalled auto with a 2400-3200 rpm flash speed.
Hopefully this makes sense!
The LS2 Stage 2 is a camshaft that I use for cars with 3600+ stall converters that need and/or meet the exact same requirements as the LS1 Stage 2 fills.
Since a manual transmission has no slip, and if you go WOT with a M6 in any gear at any rpm the car is going to start accelerating from that RPM and then of course rise in RPM from there. With a stalled A4 or A3 with a 3600 + stall speed, if you go WOT with that set-up you will instantly see 3600 rpm's or more because of the stall's flash speed.
With that taken into account, the LS1 Stage 2 with it's smaller intake duration and earlier intake valve close event will make more torque at a lower RPM than the LS2 Stage 2. The LS1 Stage 2 closes the intake valve at 40.5 degrees after bottom dead center where as the LS2 Stage 2 closes the intake valve at 44.5 degrees after bottom dead center. This will move the peak RPM that torque and horsepower occur at up, along with the RPM it begins to produce "put you back into your seat torque". Because of this, the LS2 Stage 2 is well suited for a stalled automatic with a 3600+ stall over the LS1 Stage 2. You will never notice the loss of torque under 3600 rpm with the LS2 Stage 2 because the flash speed of the stall will put you above 3600 rpm every time you go WOT. Thus why the LS1 Stage 2 with its smaller intake duration, further advanced ICL and earlier intake valve closing event are better suited for a M6 or a stalled auto with a 2400-3200 rpm flash speed.
Hopefully this makes sense!
Since a manual transmission has no slip, and if you go WOT with a M6 in any gear at any rpm the car is going to start accelerating from that RPM and then of course rise in RPM from there. With a stalled A4 or A3 with a 3600 + stall speed, if you go WOT with that set-up you will instantly see 3600 rpm's or more because of the stall's flash speed.
With that taken into account, the LS1 Stage 2 with it's smaller intake duration and earlier intake valve close event will make more torque at a lower RPM than the LS2 Stage 2. The LS1 Stage 2 closes the intake valve at 40.5 degrees after bottom dead center where as the LS2 Stage 2 closes the intake valve at 44.5 degrees after bottom dead center. This will move the peak RPM that torque and horsepower occur at up, along with the RPM it begins to produce "put you back into your seat torque". Because of this, the LS2 Stage 2 is well suited for a stalled automatic with a 3600+ stall over the LS1 Stage 2. You will never notice the loss of torque under 3600 rpm with the LS2 Stage 2 because the flash speed of the stall will put you above 3600 rpm every time you go WOT. Thus why the LS1 Stage 2 with its smaller intake duration, further advanced ICL and earlier intake valve closing event are better suited for a M6 or a stalled auto with a 2400-3200 rpm flash speed.
Hopefully this makes sense!
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From: BFE
That is one of the reasons Martin is successful at matching combos, he understands the dynamics and the effects in the powerband.
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
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From: Mount Airy, NC
Get me some numbers on that thing Avery! When are you putting it in? I know you got all your nitrous stuff as well.
I will be finishing it up the engine this weekend but I still have some cutting to do and a k-member to install. Hoping to have it all finished in the next couple weeks so I can get a few shake down passes on it before dragging rights. I'm also probably going to get hp tuners as well. I'll def let you know how it does on the dyno and on the track. Thanks again for the help Martin!
Thread Starter
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 7,480
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From: Mount Airy, NC
I will be finishing it up the engine this weekend but I still have some cutting to do and a k-member to install. Hoping to have it all finished in the next couple weeks so I can get a few shake down passes on it before dragging rights. I'm also probably going to get hp tuners as well. I'll def let you know how it does on the dyno and on the track. Thanks again for the help Martin!
