How much will a stock block take
How much will a stock block take Im getting my motor built with forged goodies etc, and should see 700rwhp out of it with some help from my friend n20. I know its a huge stress, but i wanted to see if anyone here has blew a block or anything with a big hp number. Thanks
Well all blocks are not the same. Are you talking about the LS1 or the LQ9/LQ4 block. I bet the ls1 would hold some realy good power like 700hp but not for long. If you want to have cheap insurance but add 80lbs in the front end go with the LQ9/LQ4 block.
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: NV
This is making me uncomfortable with my plans to spray my 422 Darton wet sleeved engine that I just had built. Even though my "Super Stroker" was based on an LS1 block, (without the large oiling windows of the LS6) and everything was top shelf parts, from rotating assembly to valve train, ARP studs & bolts, the best machine work money could buy, 42 lb. injectors, biggest Walbro intank pump they make, etc. Am I to believe that making 500 RWHP +, I can only safely spray a 100 shot? With good LS1 Edit tuning on a wide band equipped dyno, and running at least 100 octane gas, it would seem to me that holding the HP down to 600 because GM only designed the LS1 for 600 HP is being a tiny bit conservative? No? 
Seems to me that a lot of peeps have been flirting with disaster and getting away with it for years then. Many are spraying up to a 300 shot with good tuning and high octane gas, and have gotten away with it for a long time. I wonder how they managed that?
Seems to me that a lot of peeps have been flirting with disaster and getting away with it for years then. Many are spraying up to a 300 shot with good tuning and high octane gas, and have gotten away with it for a long time. I wonder how they managed that?
Last edited by ChevyGoldfinger; Apr 24, 2004 at 03:56 AM.
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From: BFE
Are you talking just LS1 "Block" ?
The block itself can handle 600>700, provided you do not run into detonation, or crancase pressure problems, especially a well aged and cured block.
Spend as much as you can into a pro machining job for blueprinting, tolerances and balance and you should have no problems.
IMO it is Head sealing I would be more worried about.
The block itself can handle 600>700, provided you do not run into detonation, or crancase pressure problems, especially a well aged and cured block.
Spend as much as you can into a pro machining job for blueprinting, tolerances and balance and you should have no problems.
IMO it is Head sealing I would be more worried about.
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From: NV
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
BTW,
Wade Stevens's car (98 Z) has over 1000hp on a 400+ shot DP.
All of this on a 422 LS1 (Not so stock)
Wade Stevens's car (98 Z) has over 1000hp on a 400+ shot DP.
All of this on a 422 LS1 (Not so stock)
and what about those FI cars like the LPE twin turbo Corvettes? As well as many others who have fairly reliably been putting down at least 700 to 800 RWHP? Most all of the component failures that I read/hear about are related to pistons/rods, or valve train. I would personally be much more concerned about my upper end components having a problem before the LS1 seasoned block that was used in my 422 build. Not that I want to tempt fate and spray some crazy 400 or 500 shot of N20, but I think that it will take a 250 shot with good tuning & race gas. I cannot afford to grenade this new motor, so plan to stay N/A for several thousand miles to make sure there aren't any issues that crop up. After a few dozen passes N/A and a few thousand highway miles, I plan to gamble with some N20, and I wonder what other peeps here think would be the biggest shot a well built stroker would handle?
Opinions sure are welcome. 
Launching!
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From: NV
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
repeatedly? well with the right components (Forged pistons, rods and at least nitrate treated crank) and of course the proper tune
<300>
<300>
And much, much more. . . anyhow, I wouldn't be spraying it "repeatedly". Only on occasion, and only with the proper tune & octane in place. 300 shot has been mentioned before, but I think maybe starting out with less, like a 150 NX shot into the intake, then if and when we step up to 250/300, go with a Direct port. Maybe the LSX intake will have the issues solved by then and I can get a 90 mm setup and use that to set up a DP.
