AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Got a "How To" video up of torquing down LSx heads with cheap "eBay" or Pro Comp head studs ($80). The torque sequence would apply to all head bolts or studs. The torque amount in this video is just my recommendation for these cheap studs. These studs dont usually come with instructions and leave people wondering how far to torque them. With my first set, I torqued them to ARP specs at 80ft lbs and learned that was a mistake. It streched a few of them. So I hope this helps someone out and makes the proecess a little smoother.

I welcome all of your feedback and experiences. With your added input this thread will be even more helpful to others trying out these studs.

We dont needd a debate here on which is better ebay studs vs ARP. That has already happened enough on other threads.

Keep On Wrench'n!


The final amount of torque is a personal preference since the studs come with no instructions. I chose a final torque of 70ft lbs. Its a good idea to reach that amount in three even steps.
I chose:
-1st pass at 30 ft lbs
-2nd pass at 50 ft lbs
-Final pass at 70 ft lbs

If looking to purchase these head studs, Coloradospeed is a sponsor here that provides them:
http://www.coloradospeed.com/colorad...6-p-29216.html



Attachment below has the torque sequence.

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

Thank you, nice how to video! Bookmarking this bad boy, hate TTY factory bolts, always break out into a cold sweat when removing them and installing them.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thank you 03Sssnake! yea, dealing with those TTY bolts is not fun.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Post the torque specs in the first post. I'm curious. I myself run ARP's (got em free) but have no issue at all with the pro-comps.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Good idea. Done!

poltergeist 02

iTrader: (65)

The way I did it was a three step process as well, but I used ARP torque lube. It seems to work better than oil IMO. Also, after the third pass I let them sit for 30 minutes, then double check the torque @ 70 ft lbs. The idea behind this is that if the stud is going to stretch it gives it time to do so before you final check them.

2muchboostNY

iTrader: (8)

Those are pretty much the torque specs that were recommended on a different thread in which people were giving insight on what torque sequence was used. The specs you posted are the same I was planning to use. Thanks for the vid!!!

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Great feedback so far! Keep it up. I've added a diagram of the torque sequence to the first post. Thought that'd come in handy.

sick_0n3

iTrader: (7)

Same specs I used a few months ago with them. Coloradospeed also sells them for those wanting to help out a sponsor.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the feedback and pointing out the sponsor. Do you have a link or a way to point towards that company so that I can post it in the first post? I dont know how to contact the sponsors here without googling their name and calling them. I'll post their name there now.

dangkhoavu

Hmm I never really considered using these bolts. I am glad I came across this thread. Thanks for the post OP!

sick_0n3

iTrader: (7)

http://www.coloradospeed.com/colorad...6-p-29216.html

COSPEED

iTrader: (331)

Thank you for the referral. We actually tested these on several cars, the first one being a boosted LS1 346 back in 2007. These studs work well so we decided to start selling them this year. We have a GP going, 75 bucks shipped with the 48 US states with a limited supply. Please go to the GP thread.

We have them for the Gen III and Gen IV at the same price and our own 7.4 pushrods for $60.

I think these are a great alternative even if you are running N/A. Just pay 30 bucks more over stock GM torque to yield head bolts. Why not?

I greatly appreciate the poster putting up the video and torque specs.

Thanks!

p.s. and remember "tight is tight".

mangler

Quick question. After torquing the smaller nuts to 22 along the intake ports, do the studs sit below the top of the nut or protrude out? I just installed a set of these and it seems like the studs are a bit short as they are sitting below the nut face.

COSPEED

iTrader: (331)

Which heads are you running. If it's thicker than stock then yeah. I know on the ETP heads I had to pull the studs out a little. I felt a little uncomfortable doing that. The ETP heads were even thicker than the AFRs.

mangler

Factory 862 heads, factory 3 layer MLS gasket.

Blazeracer

iTrader: (2)

Wish I would have seen this last week.. LOL

I just put a set of the ProComps on my LS1 and torqued them to 80 with no issues. Not having any instructions with the ProComp studs I went with ARP specs. I stumbled on this thread by accident. Went 40/60/80, which was about 1/4 turn each step, similar to the TTY bolts.

AFR 210 heads with MLS head gaskets. Hope it helps.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Thank you sick_0n3! First post has been updated with it.

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

Great info! Thanks for sharing and joining the conversation!

AGearHead4Life

iTrader: (5)

I remember noticing this also. Its real close. I think if it was slightly counter sunk it wouldn't be an issue.