LoneSStar

thinking of going with this cam, cant find anything on search, want to know how the power range is and sound with the 112 lsa ? ive got 02 m6 camaro ss with long tubes no cats and msd coils, wanted to stay with the stock 241 heads , plannig on 410's soon, thinking about asking pat g to do the tuning?
any input is appreciated!

LoneSStar

also should i worry about the rod bolts,? since its an 02?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Any advance in the cam?

LoneSStar

no its just the off the shelf tsp cam?

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Why not just ask said Pat G to spec you a cam based on your mods and wants. Instead of wondering how a cam may perform (in the case of the 233/239), you'll know for sure coming directly from the mouth of a reputable tuner and cam vendor. That way you have the guy tuning your car also spec you a cam so it all works smoothly together.

Also, given that it's an off the shelf TSP cam have you thought about asking the very people that designed this cam, aka TSP themselves? They might know a thing or two about it...

Just my 2 cents.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

What are your goals?

How do you want it to drive?

There's essentially two things to look at with any cam in a 346. One is the valve events and the other is the overlap. Overlap makes power but it also makes it harder to drive as you ratchet up the overlap. When you combine the valve events (opening and closing of the int/exh valves) and overlap together you end up with the shape of the torque curve and the intensity of the curve. It's what the sticky at the top talks about with why LSA doesn't matter. Pick your valve events and then pick how you want it to drive to determine the duration and LSA numbers. The valve events are pretty well set for the 346 with the plastic intakes. So the rest is tuning it for how you want it to drive and, ultimately, how much compression you wish to use.

For example, a 228/232 112+2 and a 234/238 110+3 will peak about the same RPM with the 234 making more peak power in a more violent fashion. It will drive worse and have less linear power delivery. But it will make a good 15-20hp more. Both like about the same amount of compression due to the same intake valve closing event. But the driving dynamics are significantly different as are the shapes of the curve due to the tighter LSA on the 234/238.

LoneSStar

Thanx guys , talked to tsp and they got me setup..but I'm still wondering about rod bolts..?? Any input? I'd hate to pull the motor just to do rod bolts and cam.. I heard if I do go ahead and do rod bolts get th katech ones and not the arp..why is that??

nj02z

iTrader: (6)

I run this cam. This is my cam only 02 z28.The only other upgrades to the engine have been the Prc springs and TPS push rods. The car gets raced every weekend and has over 250 passes and everything has been fine. The car has been 11.502 so I am pretty happy with the cam This is real world results not some dyno number. Runs fine ,drives fine and sounds good too.

Hamrdown

iTrader: (25)

Finally a voice of reason in these threads! Always wondered why people ask questions like this without actually calling the vendor themselves.

Tsp also specs cams as well. Before they release their cams they did a ton of engine dyno & track testing so they've got a pretty good handle on this stuff. I remember them posting results back in the day on their 228r cam & everyone thought that cam was going to her too huge & not even clear. Then we were all blown away by the results. Just call them directly for info on the cam & see what they say & see if a different cam would be better or even a custom one.

poltergeist 02

iTrader: (65)

I wouldn't bother with rod bolts unless you decide to spin the thing over 7000 rpm and even then you are probably still ok.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

I run the TSP 233/239 112 with livernois motorsports LS6 heads. This cam is about the biggest cam i would run in a daily driver. Just make sure you got a tuner.

Drives smooth, and has a nasty lope..

1fastls1ss

iTrader: (7)

What he said^. I love the cam, works great with my 3600 stall. You will be fine as far as the bottom end of the motor, but a good tuner will be needed to get the idle just right.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

I have this cam and love it. It pulls really good and the power range for the 112 lsa is 1800-6200rpm if I remember right. Mine is a stalled auto with a 3600 stall and it shifts at 6500rpm, but still feels like it could pull more too. I have a couple sound clips I will post for you since you asked for the sound of it. The first one is with a 3/4" plate that I made for the borla. It is a little more muffled (no pun intended) since it forces some of it through the muffler. The second is without a plate in the borla and it is just ridiculously loud at wot bypassing the muffler with long tubes and no cats. I daily drive this car with no problems at all and I only have 2.73 gears. You'll really like this cam without any regrets with the 4.10's and being a m6. Better get some good radials because you'll need them. Good luck and hope this helps.

1st clip 3/4" plate

2nd clip no plate, sounds a lot cleaner and you can hear the lope better, but loud at wot.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

It's an old cam, using I think XE high lift lobes, which are fine. They are easier on the valve train and work well.

One thing I don't like is the 112+0... it needs about 3 to 4 degrees advance to make it perform "optimally." A 233 duration intake lobe on a 112 ICL is too late for a 346 unless you have a lot of compression. You lose some bottom end with it but it should extend the power past peak pretty nicely.

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Maybe it's because my car is stalled idk, but I wouldn't say I'm missing any bottom end and I only have 2.73's with stock 241 heads. I've had no problems at all with any car of similar mods/horsepower from a dig or slow roll.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

Anybody else running this 233/239 cam?

Jtm2085

iTrader: (1)

I ran that cam in my 04 GTO. Pulled like a **** up top. My car did lose a significant amount of bottom end how ever. Being a heavier car with the stock 3.46 gears didnt help for sure. Big cam, LTW flywheel, heavy, and stock gears sucked dick from a dig.

b1er

iTrader: (1)

I have that cam in my Z06... it drives nice and pulls hard to 6800... I'm thinking about putting one in my TA with a 4k stall... should be fun...

Deeohgie69

iTrader: (3)

Was this a m6 car? Asking because it will make a difference with you only having 3.46 gears with a 6 speed vs a stalled auto from a dig. You do make a good point, because if you have an m6 with 3.42's, then you probably want a different cam with more low torque unless you're planning on putting different gears in it, especially being a heavier car. If you have a stalled auto it closes the gap as far as gearing goes, so this cam wouldn't really notice much low end loss (at least from what I've experienced).

OP like he said, if your car is a m6 then you need different gears to go with it and you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll be having to reel them in once you get your rpm's up. If your car is an automatic then just get at least a 3600 or higher stall and you'll be fine.

03EBZ06

Not your cam, but IMO a 232/240-112+4, is your garden variety cam for a 350cid engine and will probably work out.

As far as tuning, get someone that tunes fast cars at the track in your area.