SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

This is on my lm7 powered truck, not the camaro.

I've noticed a gasoline smell while checking and or changing the oil. Also my oil psi drops about 20psi hot and cold about 1000 miles after an oil change.

Some background info, I believe the truck needs intake gaskets because when its really cold I get a lean code on both banks, also when super cold out it surges at idle. Other than that the truck runs great, no hesitation, doesn't seem to be down on power.

Could the lean condition from the intake gaskets be adding way to much fuel that is getting past the rings and into the oil? Also could the excess gas in the oil be causing the oil psi drop?

Thanks for any help in advance.

truckdoug

iTrader: (26)

could be a combo. dirty injector spraying rich so the truck tried to go lean. my first thing would be intake gaskets though.

cheapest stuff first, clear the codes and see what happens

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input! I planned on doing the intake gaskets soon. Truck needs shackle brackets as well, but that's a totally different story.

Now that the racecar is busted out of winter jail though I won't need to depend on the truck every day, so I'll start off by doing the intake gaskets.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Intake gaskets will not make it run rich, but it can make it run lean on that cylinder. But that's not going to go lean enough for the O2 to cause the mixture to richen enough to put gas in your oil. Its not getting into the oil while running most likely unless your exhaust is pouring black smoke while running.

You most likely have a stuck injector leaking when its not running which drains all the fuel into the cylinder which then goes past the rings and into your oil. Put a pressure gauge on the rail and see if it bleeds down, I am betting it does.

And yes, gas in the oil will thin it causing the pressure to drop. And it can also damage bearings.

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

Any suggestions on how to unstick them if they are stuck? I'll get a psi gauge and measure psi a few hrs after I shut it off.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

Stuck is basically dirty/clogged/varnished so it cant close all the way reliably. If stockish(cheap) injectors, I would try a different set. You can pull those and rig up something to apply 12V accross the pins to open the injector and spray cleaner through or look into a proper fuel injection cleaning setup.. I am looking at OTC 7448 pretty hard just to have.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Won't a stuck PVC cause that too?

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

I think not. My logic is this..vacuum leaks(intake gaskets), rich conditions caused by that or otherwise, PCV, etc...ENGINE RUNNING issues are going to burn up in the chamber and/or go out the tailpipe. Not enough time to get past the rings on quantity. If quantity of fuel(enough for a gas smell and low pressure) is getting into the pan, likely this is happening at rest(engine not running) and at rest the only force you still have active is the residual pressure in the fuel rail. This only gets into the cylinders(and then pan) if an injector is leaking this pressure out either immediately or even overnight.

If this is early, return-style fuel system, the regulator could be leaking fuel back through the vacuum hose. That's even easier to check.

That's my thought process at least, right or wrong. I don't see where PCV can enter the equation for fuel in the oil but I like to learn.

SlasherVRGR

iTrader: (1)

I actually changed the PCV valve to the one that was in my ls1. It was good, I just switched to the new style in the car. The one that came from the truck originally was all gunked up.

It's a 99 truck, haven't really done anything to it or done any research so I have no idea what fuel system it has. Once the weather breaks I'll probably just pull the injectors and toss them in a sonic cleaner full of seafoam.

It's not a big concern at the moment, I'd just like some opinions before I start digging into it in a month or so.

Thanks for all the help and info so far though, I appreciate it.

Mercier

iTrader: (15)

99 should be return-style with a real regulator on the rail and a fuel feed and return line. Regulator is round-ish and about at the mid point on the driver side fuel rail where the fuel lines connect. Should have a small vacuum line coming off of it. Run the fuel pump(cycle key on/off several times or just run the vehicle), then pull that vacuum line and check for gas.

If stock 99 truck injectors, those are the least desirable and you can probably pick up a set for next to nothing. Nothing wrong with them; just not much overhead for performance.