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Best low end torque cam for LS1..

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Old 06-01-2005, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DWillTA
Here is some threads I ran into while searching. You may have seen these, but if not hope they help.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96215
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/79019-224-224-565-565-110lsa-106icl-comp-xe-dyno-graph.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/72972-224-224-110lsa-106icl-cam-dyno-results-very-happy.html

These were posts orignally by dailyaluminumblock. He goes by a new name now. The links to the dyno graph are dead. Hopefully he can chime in and repost it up. From what I read that cam made 380 ft lbs of torque at about 2800 rpms.
Awesome! That's what I'm talking about, thanks.
Old 06-01-2005, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by DWillTA
Here is some threads I ran into while searching. You may have seen these, but if not hope they help.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96215
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79019
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72972

These were posts orignally by dailyaluminumblock. He goes by a new name now. The links to the dyno graph are dead. Hopefully he can chime in and repost it up. From what I read that cam made 380 ft lbs of torque at about 2800 rpms.
It's suprising to me that more people don't follow along the same path that he did. Those were just x-e high lift lobes making all of that power.

I'd also like to see the dyno graph.
Old 06-01-2005, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SSCoulter
If you don't have anything constructive to add to this thread please resist the urge to type something.
Just being a smartass I realize there is no way for you to understand how a larger cam will feel, but I still think you wouldn't be dissapointed.
Old 06-01-2005, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DMNSPD
Just being a smartass I realize there is no way for you to understand how a larger cam will feel, but I still think you wouldn't be dissapointed.
Your probably right. I was just hoping to do all my homework before I made a cam choice. This has been a good thread, I have learned a lot.
Old 06-01-2005, 09:56 PM
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It's not LS1, but the principle applies ... I run the same cam in both of my 69 GTO's - 220/230@.050, 110LSA & 106 ICL with factory "Ram Air" manifolds. Lumpy idle, gobs of torque down low, great around town, and will pull way beyond where stock Pontiac rods should go.
Old 06-01-2005, 11:23 PM
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I have the comp 216/220 114 cam, still waiting to be put in. How well do you guys think it would fit the criteria?
Old 06-02-2005, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Redneck Z
I have the comp 216/220 114 cam, still waiting to be put in. How well do you guys think it would fit the criteria?
Back in te begining of LS1 aftermarket mods the "Old Faithfull" 216/220 was the shitznit, like the 224 is now. It will work very nice and is capable of 400rwhp in M6 with stage 2 heads + bolt ons.
Old 06-02-2005, 11:56 AM
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If you are looking for a good street cam that will make good power under teh curve, give Eastside a call. The cam that Ken did for my car made a peak of 403 rwhp thru a 12 bolt with 4.10's and a steel driveshaft. The hp peaked at 403, but was at 400 from about 5700 to about 6500, and it pulls accordingly The tq was also good, over 350 from 3000 to 6200, peaked at 4900 at 387. I took it to the track, and even with my heavy race weight, the car ran consistant 12.4 to 12.5, best being a 12.39. Lopes nicely, idels perfect, etc. etc. and the gas mileage isn't a total nightmare either. the car feels like I gained alot everywhere in the rpm range, gears probably help the bottom end, but the dyno sheet says it gained from where the car was before. Car has headers, cats, stock maf, stock water pump, pulley, lid, LM catback.. no shortbelt of any other dyno tricks, on 93 pump gas.
Old 06-02-2005, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
In general, any cam with 0 or less degrees of overlap @ .050 will pass with a good tune.
How to calculate:
(Int Dur + Exh Dur)/2 - (2 X lsa) = * of overlap
(these numbers at .050 lifts)
Zero or less degrees, I guess meaning negative degrees?

Also, would having zero or less degrees of overlap ruin the sound? If I were to do a cam, I'd like to get that nice loping sound, ya know! But still pass inspection..
Old 06-02-2005, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
Go back and read what I said about the Ausie cams. Shorter duration, narrower LSA. They make monster torque in the low to mid range while still pulling nicely above 6000 rpm. Too many on this board have tunnel vision or just follow the masses. There's a great big world of cam choices out there. While they may not put up "dyno queen" numbers, they'll plant a smile on your face every time.

Do a search for the member Plan B. He's an Ausie and on top of his game. As a refresher, the cams they run tend to be in the 106-110LSA range. The duration runs from mild to wild with their cams. Knowing that you want big block torque down low and crisp driving manners, I still stand firm by the 216/220 110LSA 110ICL cam. It will give you what you want. Choose your favorite cam grinder and have them whip one up.
What "he" said...

A lot of lobe area with short duration, timing events that will result in a tighter LSA than most people would ever use...

Done all the time...

MEGA-TORQUE!

Ed
Old 06-02-2005, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSmoke
If I were to do a cam, I'd like to get that nice loping sound, ya know! But still pass inspection..
You basically won't get nice lope and pass a sniffer.
Old 06-02-2005, 10:09 PM
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I have the old B1 and dynoed with a 12 bolt/steel shaft with #'s in the sig. I did a thought out combo on my car and on the street it pulls REAL hard all thru the range.I've had 2 track jaunts this year and the learning curve on launching should net me a mid 11 with the MPH I have.
Old 06-02-2005, 10:10 PM
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Alan at Futral recomended the 221\224-114 cam. I told him what I was looking for and what bolt-on's I would have and this is the cam he came up with. I don't understand in light of what we have learned in this thread how he could recomend a cam on a 114? I understand the 221/224 part, just not the 114. I would like to think he knows what he's talking about but why would that be better than the 224/224 on a 112 at least? Why not a 220/224 on a 110? Anyone?
Old 06-02-2005, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by glennster
I have the old B1 and dynoed with a 12 bolt/steel shaft with #'s in the sig. I did a thought out combo on my car and on the street it pulls REAL hard all thru the range.I've had 2 track jaunts this year and the learning curve on launching should net me a mid 11 with the MPH I have.
What are the spec's on a B1 cam? Is this right? B1 : 221/221 558/558 114 lsa

Can you post the dyno sheet?

Here is my last dyno sheet, mods where all the free one's plus LM. Bone stock otherwise. No lid, and before my gears. I would love to keep that kind of torque curve only have it in the 360-385 range at 3,000rpm's.
Attached Thumbnails Best low end torque cam for LS1..-591306_45_full.jpg  

Last edited by SSCoulter; 06-02-2005 at 11:09 PM.
Old 06-03-2005, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
You basically won't get nice lope and pass a sniffer.
Dang!! Always a catch
Old 06-03-2005, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
You basically won't get nice lope and pass a sniffer.
Yes you can. But the durations will be small by modders standards nowadays.
Basically a cam with a negative degree of overlap at .050 will pass with good tuning.

for exemple:

214/220 on a 110+0 that is a (217-220)= -3* overlap at .050 and it will pass.
Old 06-03-2005, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
214/220 on a 110+0 that is a (217-220)= -3* overlap at .050
Oi. That's my cam. Mines retarded though.
Old 06-03-2005, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Yes you can. But the durations will be small by modders standards nowadays.
Basically a cam with a negative degree of overlap at .050 will pass with good tuning.

for exemple:

214/220 on a 110+0 that is a (217-220)= -3* overlap at .050 and it will pass.
But how much will a 214/220 lope? It's 3* away from any overlap at .05....

I suppose you could drop the idle pretty low, but still....

Well, I know it wouldn't lope enough for me.
Old 06-03-2005, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
But how much will a 214/220 lope? It's 3* away from any overlap at .05....

I suppose you could drop the idle pretty low, but still....

Well, I know it wouldn't lope enough for me.
Lope doesn't make power but it makes a lot of noise
It will lope enough to make any challenger think twice
Old 06-03-2005, 03:39 PM
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Another thing you want to take a hard look at is selecting a cam that raises your dynamic compression up above 8.0 to 1. Stock DCR is 6.977 to 1. Be carefull exceeding 8.5 to 1 because you start running lots of cylinder pressure and higher octane than 93 begins to matter. The 216/220 110LSA 110ICL cam has a DCR of 8.18 to 1. With an intake closing point of 38 degrees ABDC, it would make peak power below 6000 rpm. Probably more like 5800-5900. If you advance this cam 4 degrees (106ICL), the dynamic compression would be 8.42. Wow, that's a lot of cylinder pressure and hella torque. Only problem is, you'd run out of breath pretty quick with an intake valve closing point of 34 dgrees ADBC. Power peak would probably be around 5500 rpm, costing you 10-20 rwhp at 6000 rpm compared to the same cam on a 110 intake centerline.

As a comparison, the Futral recommended cam 221/224 114 would have the following DCRs and power peaks:
221/224 114LSA (+0) 7.79 DCR, 6300 peak hp
221/224 114LSA (+2) 7.93 DCR, 6200 peak hp
221/224 114LSA (+4) 8.06 DCR, 6100 peak hp
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