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6800-7000 rpm, how reliable, 05 GTO

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Old 03-13-2011, 09:32 PM
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Default 6800-7000 rpm, how reliable, 05 GTO

I am preparing to swap in some new pieces. Flowtech ported 243's, PAC 1521's, Comp Cams Ultra Pro-Magnum LSx Rocker Kit, Morel link-bar lifters, 5/16 push rods, EDC 235/241 .614 on 112. Already on the Goat are a FAST 102 and Vararam.

If this setup is still making power in the 6800-7000 range will a stock bottom end hold up or just become a huge bomb with a short fuse. Shooting for 400 to the wheels uncorrected.
Old 03-13-2011, 09:45 PM
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personally I dont think it will make power that high. 6800 should be fine. I wouldnt go higher if you dont need to though. I bet it peaks at 6600 imo
Old 03-13-2011, 09:55 PM
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how many miles are on your engine? personally i wouldnt go through all that work if the engine has more than 70k miles depending on how hard you drive your car. i mean if your going to tear your whole enigne apart you might as well do pistons and everything. you might want to consider puttng those parts on a new short block! and do you plan to do the work yourself?
Old 03-13-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1aiden
how many miles are on your engine? personally i wouldnt go through all that work if the engine has more than 70k miles depending on how hard you drive your car. i mean if your going to tear your whole enigne apart you might as well do pistons and everything. you might want to consider puttng those parts on a new short block! and do you plan to do the work yourself?
As much sense as that makes I don't have the funds to do the whole thing. The cam with 921's are already in the car with more miles on the 921's than I should have. A Couple outer's have broken and I am a bit nervous about the stock lifters. That is what has brought on the changes. I don't have the knowldege to do the work myself and Colorado is not a good place to be an enthusiast. I have been searching for a good builder, not much luck yet. I am only home to drive the car(68,000 miles) about 3 months out of the year. So when I do get to drive it, I drive it pretty hard.

Currently the power peak was right at 6600-6700 with just cam,LT's,exhuast, factory airbox. You guys are good!
Old 03-14-2011, 08:43 AM
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If anything, you should replace the rod bolts with ARP 2000s. And maybe a good tranny cooler as high RPMs is killer on transmissions.
Old 03-14-2011, 08:45 AM
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It Should be fine. I know a guy reving to 7200 on his ls2 for a couple of years now. Much larger cam than yours though.
as stated above rod bolts are always a good idea.
Old 03-14-2011, 11:18 AM
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Mine shifts 1-2 at 7000rpm, 2-3 at 6800rpm, and 3-4 and 6600rpm (never make it that far) ... rev limiter is set at 7200rpm. I've had it set up like this for over 60k miles now ... no issues. I do change my valve springs every ~35k and use the lightweight LS6 valves.
Old 03-14-2011, 02:18 PM
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Thanks for all of the info. Sounds like a resaonable gamble to spin it to those levels. I should of said it up front. My question about the rpm's was geared towards road racing. The gearing of a car just does not work perfectly at every track and sometimes a corner comes up and it just does not make any sense to grab the next gear for 1-2 seconds. It just ends up being faster to hold on to whatever gear your in even though you are out of your power band.
Old 03-14-2011, 09:46 PM
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I ran my Corvette to 7000 on a regular basis when it had the 01 6.0 with 130k mi on it. I had upgraded rod bolts, stock bottom end other than that. Now I run my 08 6.2 up there with just upgraded rod bolts. No problems on either one. I did replace the main bearings on the 6.0 but I don't think it had anything to do with my operating range, probably the mileage had more to do with it.
Old 03-14-2011, 11:43 PM
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ARP 2000 rod bolts and common sense driving eg. No banging off the rev limiter and get an accurate shift light or rpm gauge.
Old 03-15-2011, 01:48 AM
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used to have Flowtech ported 243's! very nice
Old 03-15-2011, 06:33 PM
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All right I am sure this will give you knowlegable guys a laugh but do rod bolt change outs require the engine to be pulled. Looks like alot of interference on the bottom of a GTO.
Old 03-16-2011, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by boatanchor
All right I am sure this will give you knowlegable guys a laugh but do rod bolt change outs require the engine to be pulled. Looks like alot of interference on the bottom of a GTO.
Don't have to pull it on the f-body. It's a PIA but the motor can stay. Don't know about GTO's though.
Old 03-16-2011, 11:35 AM
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Changing rod bolts without checking the concentracy (sp?) of the rod bearing could be a gamble. People do it and I've seen people have no issues, or get the bearings to tight/lose. It's best to measure the bolts stretch rather than torque value as the type of lube and bolt materials can change the torque requirement.
Old 03-16-2011, 04:29 PM
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My 5.7 went 75,000 miles with ARP 2000 rod bolts and RIDICULOUSLY abusing the CRAP out of that motor



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