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Hello everyone! I am the proud owner of a recently pulled L92 from an 07 Yukon. The engine has 180k on the clock and seems to have very slight lifter tick. At a minimum, I'm going to do all 16 lifters. Thankfully it has a smooth valley cover so i don't need to do the AFM delete. However it's been recommended (and makes sense) that i do a cam and springs upgrade while I'm in there. I have the following questions.
Which cam would be best for my needs? On the surface, it seems like putting the most aggressive cam that can work with stock pistons is the way to go. However, if this is significantly going to shorten the life of the bottom end, I don't want to go ***** to the wall. Is there a happy medium in terms of aftermarket cams? Keeping in mind this engine will be living inside a 2800lb car so 500hp is going to be plenty. It's just that if all the work is the same, why not have the extra power on tap before i stuff everything into the engine bay.
What parts are things that would be smart to do for longevity and reliability while i have the heads off and the engine on a stand? Can i get away with just top end stuff like the head gasket and valve springs? Timing chain, water pump? I'm hoping to get at least about 100k out of this motor so if it means pulling the pistons and doing new bearings, i can do it. I'm just trying not to go down a huge rabbit hole here.
Is there any reason not to do the cam and just do the lifters? Is it going to significantly diminish the reliability if it go with even a mild cam?
I really appreciate any input you folks have. I'm new to LS's but I'm excited to learn. You guys are a great resource.
2800 pound car with what type of transmission, what type of rear end & gear ratio?
Refreshing the top end with a reasonable new cam, new lifters, fresh rockers and new valve spring kit shouldn't reduce engine longevity very much. Usage & maintenance are typically key factors too. Saying that based on running a heads & cam package over 130,000 miles on my 99 T/A.
Thanks for the response. Engine is going into a BMW E30. Stock diff will be retained (is an LSD) and is a 2.93 ratio. Transmission will be a T56 but i don't have one yet. Likely gonna buy a new one unless i get a super good deal on a low miles one.
Some others have said that oil pump and timing chain would be good to do while i have the heads off. Anything else?
If you're doing new lifters, get new GM plastic trays too.
I don't know which lifters you'll be using, but Summit has a package deal with Morel LS7-style lifters and trays (SUM-HTLSKIT-3) for $238.99.
Includes Morel 7717 lifters, (4) trays, and (4) tray bolts.
Thanks for the response. Engine is going into a BMW E30. Stock diff will be retained (is an LSD) and is a 2.93 ratio. Transmission will be a T56 but i don't have one yet. Likely gonna buy a new one unless i get a super good deal on a low miles one.
Cam wise, Cam Motion or Geoff at Engine PowerSystems or Pat G or one of the many cam guru's will have better suggestions than mine. With that said something like a Cam Motion Titan 3 LS3 Camshaft (227/237-113+3.5) would probably be in the ball park, depending on what you want.
The 2,800 pounds will help with the 2.93 rear gear. Most T56 have the 2.66 1st gear which may be a little unfun with 2.93 rear gear. Might be more fun to have a T56 from a GTO with the 2.97 1st gear.
Magnums are also a great choice if you decide to buy a new transmission.
others have said that oil pump and timing chain would be good to do while i have the heads off. Anything else?
Thanks again for the response.
-Josh
Sure, new timing set & oil pump - might as well while into the engine. With heads off, I'd get at least a performance valve job & clean up of the bowl area.
Happy add my .02 of opinion.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 03-13-2022 at 04:33 PM.
Cam wise, Cam Motion or Geoff at Engine PowerSystems or Pat G or one of the many cam guru's will have better suggestions than mine. With that said something like a Cam Motion Titan 3 LS3 Camshaft (227/237-113+3.5) would probably be in the ball park, depending on what you want.
The 2,800 pounds will help with the 2.93 rear gear. Most T56 have the 2.66 1st gear which may be a little unfun with 2.93 rear gear. Might be more fun to have a T56 from a GTO with the 2.97 1st gear.
Magnums are also a great choice if you decide to buy a new transmission.
Sure, new timing set & oil pump - might as well while into the engine. With heads off, I'd get at least a performance valve job & clean up of the bowl area.
Happy add my .02 of opinion.
Is the general thought that bottom end should be good as long as i stay relatively mild with the cam? At 180k miles, should the rings and bearings still be good? It was in a truck so I'm not too worried about abuse.
If you do a oil pump, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL IT PROPLY. They aren’t simply R&R like SBCs of old. A Improve Racing pick up tube brace is great insurance/idea and they are under $30.
I got the engine in my basement this morning so it's moving along. I discovered that I'll likely need an LS3 style intake because the truck intake won't clear my hood.
If you do a oil pump, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL IT PROPLY. They aren’t simply R&R like SBCs of old. A Improve Racing pick up tube brace is great insurance/idea and they are under $30.
I'm going to need a new oil pan for fitment. That reminds me, do any of you have a spare LS3 intake manifold that you could measure the height of? I'm trying to figure out exactly how much taller the vortec one is.
You've received some great advice from the community. This sounds like a cool swap you have going here.
We want to throw our hat in the ring for cam options. First, we noticed you didn't answer @99 Black Bird T/A question about what this is going to be used for. Putting the biggest cam in might be great for a dyno number and bragging rights. However, if this is something you want to daily or have easy to get along with manners you might want to draw that back a bit. If it's just a weekend toy for joy rides maybe something on the rowdy side would be good for you.
Option 1: Our Pro LS SUM-8715R1 known as the "Ghost cam". Specs on it are .600/.575, 222/234, 115+3 with -2* of overlap. It's popular for folks with 6.2's that want some good power but want excellent driveability. It's mild-mannered and easy to get along with but packs a punch. You'll have a smooth idle to noticeable lope depending on idle speed. It'll be happy to run out to 6,800 plus with our SUM-174004 .600" lift beehives.
Option 2: Our Pro LS stage 3 "extra clearance" SUM-8710R1. Specs on it are .625/.605, 230/242, 113+3 with 10* of overlap. Designed around rec port head engines such as the L92. This allows the heads to be milled slightly for compression and still maintain PTV clearance. This will have a strong steady lope. It will accelerate hard in the mid-range with a good top-end out to 7,000+. This shifts the power band to the right from the Ghost cam and you might get some bucking at low speed. Although, the larger cubes of the 6.2 and a good custom tune should help with that. You'll need some dual springs for this cam. The Trickflow .660" lift TFS-2500286Pduals work well and keep the valvetrain happy.
Option 3: Our Pro LS stage 4 "extra clearance" SUM-8711R1. Specs on it are .625/.605, 234/248, 113+3.5 with 14* of overlap. This has a strong lope and is designed for maximum acceleration with the factory rec port manifold. It's the largest Pro LS cam we offer that will fit an LS3 with unmilled heads. We still recommend checking PTV clearance before final assembly. This will have some character/bucking with a 6-speed and stock gears. We would highly recommend steeper gears before going with this cam. Even with gears and a good custom tune chances are there will still be some character to put up with at 14* of overlap. This will push the powerband out even further to the right and carry power on past 7,000. You'll want the same Trickflow .660" lift duals above to keep the valvetrain happy.
This gives you three very different options that will all clear the valves on a stock LS3/L92. It's kind of a mild to wild list and lets you see what's possible. This is why when asking for cam recommendations it's important to provide how you'll use the vehicle and what you're looking for out of the swap.
Something else to consider with the cam swap is since this is an L92 you would have VVT. You'll need a new 3-bolt/4-pole timing gear and a new timing cover. We happen to have a VVT Delete kit part number CMB-09-0027.
This gives you some things to look over. Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
You've received some great advice from the community. This sounds like a cool swap you have going here.
We want to throw our hat in the ring for cam options. First, we noticed you didn't answer @99 Black Bird T/A question about what this is going to be used for. Putting the biggest cam in might be great for a dyno number and bragging rights. However, if this is something you want to daily or have easy to get along with manners you might want to draw that back a bit. If it's just a weekend toy for joy rides maybe something on the rowdy side would be good for you.
Option 1: Our Pro LS SUM-8715R1 known as the "Ghost cam". Specs on it are .600/.575, 222/234, 115+3 with -2* of overlap. It's popular for folks with 6.2's that want some good power but want excellent driveability. It's mild-mannered and easy to get along with but packs a punch. You'll have a smooth idle to noticeable lope depending on idle speed. It'll be happy to run out to 6,800 plus with our SUM-174004 .600" lift beehives.
Option 2: Our Pro LS stage 3 "extra clearance" SUM-8710R1. Specs on it are .625/.605, 230/242, 113+3 with 10* of overlap. Designed around rec port head engines such as the L92. This allows the heads to be milled slightly for compression and still maintain PTV clearance. This will have a strong steady lope. It will accelerate hard in the mid-range with a good top-end out to 7,000+. This shifts the power band to the right from the Ghost cam and you might get some bucking at low speed. Although, the larger cubes of the 6.2 and a good custom tune should help with that. You'll need some dual springs for this cam. The Trickflow .660" lift TFS-2500286Pduals work well and keep the valvetrain happy.
Option 3: Our Pro LS stage 4 "extra clearance" SUM-8711R1. Specs on it are .625/.605, 234/248, 113+3.5 with 14* of overlap. This has a strong lope and is designed for maximum acceleration with the factory rec port manifold. It's the largest Pro LS cam we offer that will fit an LS3 with unmilled heads. We still recommend checking PTV clearance before final assembly. This will have some character/bucking with a 6-speed and stock gears. We would highly recommend steeper gears before going with this cam. Even with gears and a good custom tune chances are there will still be some character to put up with at 14* of overlap. This will push the powerband out even further to the right and carry power on past 7,000. You'll want the same Trickflow .660" lift duals above to keep the valvetrain happy.
This gives you three very different options that will all clear the valves on a stock LS3/L92. It's kind of a mild to wild list and lets you see what's possible. This is why when asking for cam recommendations it's important to provide how you'll use the vehicle and what you're looking for out of the swap.
Something else to consider with the cam swap is since this is an L92 you would have VVT. You'll need a new 3-bolt/4-pole timing gear and a new timing cover. We happen to have a VVT Delete kit part number CMB-09-0027.
This gives you some things to look over. Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!
Thanks so much for the detailed reply!
I'd say I'm probably looking at something right down the middle (option 2)
For the rest of the folks looking at this thread, I've assembled a parts list. Can you take a look and tell me if I'm missing anything? Since I made this post initially I have already purchased a new LS3 intake and 42lb injectors.
Depending on your intended use maybe a SFI flex plate if you are going auto. Rebuild the starter? New timing chain guides? New water pump. Rebuild the alternator?
As far as the intake height on the LS3 intake from the valley cover mounting surface to the top of the LS3 intake is about 7".
Valley cover gaskets. If your "new" LS3 intake is used new intake gaskets. If the 42lb injectors are new to you but used I would suggest sending them out for cleaning. May seem over the top but I hate start up issues. It's so cool on the first start you turn the key you can hear the fuel pump cycle and the engine just starts and runs.
I've done two L92 to LS3 swaps using similar cams to the Summit Ghost cam from Texas Speed. I wouldn't go any bigger if you want something that will super easy to tune and totally be streetable. Both right at 420 RWHP on the chassis dyno.
On my first L92 to LS3 swap I used the truck DBW throttle and it worked well. On my current L92 to LS3 swap I used a Corvette DBW throttle body because I got a package deal on the LS3 intake complete.
Good luck with your swap.
Depending on your intended use maybe a SFI flex plate if you are going auto. Rebuild the starter? New timing chain guides? New water pump. Rebuild the alternator?
As far as the intake height on the LS3 intake from the valley cover mounting surface to the top of the LS3 intake is about 7".
Valley cover gaskets. If your "new" LS3 intake is used new intake gaskets. If the 42lb injectors are new to you but used I would suggest sending them out for cleaning. May seem over the top but I hate start up issues. It's so cool on the first start you turn the key you can hear the fuel pump cycle and the engine just starts and runs.
I've done two L92 to LS3 swaps using similar cams to the Summit Ghost cam from Texas Speed. I wouldn't go any bigger if you want something that will super easy to tune and totally be streetable. Both right at 420 RWHP on the chassis dyno.
On my first L92 to LS3 swap I used the truck DBW throttle and it worked well. On my current L92 to LS3 swap I used a Corvette DBW throttle body because I got a package deal on the LS3 intake complete.
Good luck with your swap.
Whoah, so much info in such a short post. Thank you so much for replying. You're literally exactly who I've been wanting to talk to.
The car is going to be mated to a T56 magnum manual transmission. I assume I need a new flywheel/thrust bearing/pilot bearing/ and clutch. Is there anything else I need for this motor considering it came from an auto?
Timing chain guides and water pump are probably a great idea. What's the failure rate on the alt and starter in these cars? Considering they're non critical, exterior parts, I might just roll the dice with them unless they are specifically prone to failure before 150k miles.
The intake manifold and injectors are brand new as they came from a crate motor. The owner informed me that the engine was fired up once to verify function and then the parts were removed. They certainly look as though he's telling the truth so I'll leave those as is.
Can you explain the what you mean by tunability being better with the milder cam? Is it just that the overlap makes the car buck happy at low revs? My biggest reason for going with a mid range cam is the same reason I'm doing all this other stuff, I'd hate to get the swap complete and feel like I could handle the extra 50 hp from a more aggressive cam. The car will be a weekend spring and summer cruiser, with a track day thrown in here and there. Definitely not going to be a drift missile or track car.
That brings me to my next big question, do I keep the VVT and get a VVT cam or get rid of it and go for a standard cam? I understand that the power ceiling for the VVT cams are lower but if it's much more streetable, that might be a fair tradeoff.
I plan on using the stock ECU. I have the throttle body from the truck intake as well as the throttle body from the LS3 intake. Which is preferable? Is there a big difference? Is there a compelling reason to NOT use the truck ECU and get an LS3 one?
Last question involves the Intake manifold swap. I know there's the bracket for relocating the alternator but I've heard there's a few more things you need to modify to accomplish this. I was wondering if you could direct me to the resources you used for your conversions or perhaps share some tips you have based on your experience.
I really super appreciate your help and consideration here. Hearing that you've done this exact conversion before makes me feel hopeful. Given the prices of LS3's these days, I expect more and more people will be going this route.
On my first L92 swap I used a TKO 600. I bought a kit from Kiesler. They are no longer in business. The TKO worked great. Shifting was a bit notchy but still worked well. 3.73 rear end gears.
I'm not a tuner guy but as I understand the bigger the cam more the chance you can have low speed driveability problems. You can always put in a bigger cam later.
I deleted the VVT because it reduces parts. Keep in mind the L92's came out of heavy trucks and SUV's that need all the low end torque they can get. My L92 projects are second gen Camaros that weigh in at 3600 lbs.
The LS3 throttle body is a bit "prettier" with the right side aluminum cover. Both will work.
ECM wise I like using the stock GM stuff. You will only need the engine ECM since you are using a T56. Many are using the the Holley stuff and like it a lot. Your call.
Front brackets wise I go with 2002 Fbody FEA. Some go with C5 FEA. I like the Fbody FEA because it kind of gets the alt out of your face and down. But that's my personal opinion. If you use either you won't have throttle body issues.
I've used ICT for FEA brackets and they worked well.
Valve seals are typically included in the valve spring/push rod upgrade kits. Check with Summit or Texas Speed. I would replace them no matter what. You will have the heads off so run them down to your local machine shop and have them touch up the valves and seats. Then install the upgraded springs.
Starter wise it's not really easy to replace with the headers on. Also change out the crank sensor. It's almost impossible to get at with the headers and and starter installed.
Couple of pics. Orange car first L92 swap. Second is my current project.
Again good luck with your swap.
03-13-2022, 02:56 PM
What parts to do on an L92 that's out of the car? 
