C6Z Solid Roller LS7 Build
So i am having the header collector stepped up to 3.5in with a 3in to 3.5in vband and then having a 3.5in x pipe made, for far cheaper than the setup through ARH. The standard 3.5in ARH x pipe necks back down to 3in after about 2.5ft (probably 18in after the x merge). Is that enough to length to realize most of the gains from the 3.5in collector? Does the exhaust really slow down enough in that 2.5ft length to not be affected by going back down to 3in?
i know the ideal solution is to dump it asap after the collector, but i am not about that life at this point. i am also not fabbing up 3.5in over the axle and modifying the cans. The extremes are already straight through. I am ultimately trying to decide if its worth it to incorporate a cutout when it goes back down to 3in before going over the axle.
i know the ideal solution is to dump it asap after the collector, but i am not about that life at this point. i am also not fabbing up 3.5in over the axle and modifying the cans. The extremes are already straight through. I am ultimately trying to decide if its worth it to incorporate a cutout when it goes back down to 3in before going over the axle.
I think I would install a set of cutouts and call it a day.
when I go to the track I just pull the pipes back to x pipe and install turndowns.were I live in a rural area I can get by doing this .I’ve been riding around like this since the first of November.but I’m getting ready to pull the motor so I don’t what to add work to myself
as far as over the axle 3” pipes ,were I’m running a trans brace I had to modify mine with a hammer to clear the brace (passenger side) in order to get my Corsa muffler straight
when I go to the track I just pull the pipes back to x pipe and install turndowns.were I live in a rural area I can get by doing this .I’ve been riding around like this since the first of November.but I’m getting ready to pull the motor so I don’t what to add work to myself
as far as over the axle 3” pipes ,were I’m running a trans brace I had to modify mine with a hammer to clear the brace (passenger side) in order to get my Corsa muffler straight
The 3.5 inch for 2.5 feet will work fine. The 3 inch manderel over the axles is fine - it cools off quickly. I think there have been some dyno tests on a 468 Corvette in Arizona and there really was not much difference on the stuff you were talking about above. The 3.5 inch for the 2.5 feet will get you 95% of the way there on what might be only a 20 hp gain to begin with so you get 19 of the 20 hp.
If you do run it open headers or cutouts you will want at least 16" of tubing before dumping the exhaust. Open headers just at the collectors will be down quite a bit.
The power gains from 3.5" is likely from the larger collector, not from having 3.5" tubing after the 3" collector. I'd be interested to see a comparison.
The power gains from 3.5" is likely from the larger collector, not from having 3.5" tubing after the 3" collector. I'd be interested to see a comparison.
The 3.5 inch for 2.5 feet will work fine. The 3 inch manderel over the axles is fine - it cools off quickly. I think there have been some dyno tests on a 468 Corvette in Arizona and there really was not much difference on the stuff you were talking about above. The 3.5 inch for the 2.5 feet will get you 95% of the way there on what might be only a 20 hp gain to begin with so you get 19 of the 20 hp.
I think I would install a set of cutouts and call it a day.
when I go to the track I just pull the pipes back to x pipe and install turndowns.were I live in a rural area I can get by doing this .I’ve been riding around like this since the first of November.but I’m getting ready to pull the motor so I don’t what to add work to myself
as far as over the axle 3” pipes ,were I’m running a trans brace I had to modify mine with a hammer to clear the brace (passenger side) in order to get my Corsa muffler straight
when I go to the track I just pull the pipes back to x pipe and install turndowns.were I live in a rural area I can get by doing this .I’ve been riding around like this since the first of November.but I’m getting ready to pull the motor so I don’t what to add work to myself
as far as over the axle 3” pipes ,were I’m running a trans brace I had to modify mine with a hammer to clear the brace (passenger side) in order to get my Corsa muffler straight
If you do run it open headers or cutouts you will want at least 16" of tubing before dumping the exhaust. Open headers just at the collectors will be down quite a bit.
The power gains from 3.5" is likely from the larger collector, not from having 3.5" tubing after the 3" collector. I'd be interested to see a comparison.
The power gains from 3.5" is likely from the larger collector, not from having 3.5" tubing after the 3" collector. I'd be interested to see a comparison.
Thanks all!
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Going full 3" exhaust from the stock mufflers, that neck down to 2.5" at the muffler, is worth ~10whp on most setups. If you're trying to eek out every last bit of power, I would absolutely keep it 3.5" all the way or have a cutout put in right before it necks down. Going to dumps was worth some power on my setup according to the ol' butt dyno.
Going full 3" exhaust from the stock mufflers, that neck down to 2.5" at the muffler, is worth ~10whp on most setups. If you're trying to eek out every last bit of power, I would absolutely keep it 3.5" all the way or have a cutout put in right before it necks down. Going to dumps was worth some power on my setup according to the ol' butt dyno.
I see your running a QuickTime bell house and a mantic clutch me to.
since you don’t like doing maintenance I’m with you ,I cut a window in mine at the bottom were I could see what going on.around 4 1/2 w by 2 1/2 h
and also I drilled one hole inline with the pressure plate bolts if they back off.
I shouldn’t have any issues because I throw the nuts away that mantic sends with
the clutch and buy locking ones.
and I also do a little more clearance around we’re bleeder line come out.
in case I have to tighten them up.
i think we’re on the same page as far as to we’re we want to get our cars
I’m waiting on pistons /my best et was 10.52 /136.18 with a 1.605 /60 foot NA
ps from what I read I would stay away from aftermarket transmission mounts and stay with the oem transmission mounts
since you don’t like doing maintenance I’m with you ,I cut a window in mine at the bottom were I could see what going on.around 4 1/2 w by 2 1/2 h
and also I drilled one hole inline with the pressure plate bolts if they back off.
I shouldn’t have any issues because I throw the nuts away that mantic sends with
the clutch and buy locking ones.
and I also do a little more clearance around we’re bleeder line come out.
in case I have to tighten them up.
i think we’re on the same page as far as to we’re we want to get our cars
I’m waiting on pistons /my best et was 10.52 /136.18 with a 1.605 /60 foot NA
ps from what I read I would stay away from aftermarket transmission mounts and stay with the oem transmission mounts
I see your running a QuickTime bell house and a mantic clutch me to.
since you don’t like doing maintenance I’m with you ,I cut a window in mine at the bottom were I could see what going on.around 4 1/2 w by 2 1/2 h
and also I drilled one hole inline with the pressure plate bolts if they back off.
I shouldn’t have any issues because I throw the nuts away that mantic sends with
the clutch and buy locking ones.
and I also do a little more clearance around we’re bleeder line come out.
in case I have to tighten them up.
i think we’re on the same page as far as to we’re we want to get our cars
I’m waiting on pistons /my best et was 10.52 /136.18 with a 1.605 /60 foot
ps from what I read I would stay away from aftermarket transmission mounts and stay with the oem transmission mounts
since you don’t like doing maintenance I’m with you ,I cut a window in mine at the bottom were I could see what going on.around 4 1/2 w by 2 1/2 h
and also I drilled one hole inline with the pressure plate bolts if they back off.
I shouldn’t have any issues because I throw the nuts away that mantic sends with
the clutch and buy locking ones.
and I also do a little more clearance around we’re bleeder line come out.
in case I have to tighten them up.
i think we’re on the same page as far as to we’re we want to get our cars
I’m waiting on pistons /my best et was 10.52 /136.18 with a 1.605 /60 foot
ps from what I read I would stay away from aftermarket transmission mounts and stay with the oem transmission mounts
Wheel hop what kill differential in C5/C/6 corvette. I’m running Henson motor mount and oem transmission mounts with no issues
I reached out to Sebastian19X about aftermarket transmission mounts and he told me to stay away from them.
he said he killed a lot of side covers running them.he’s been running his car for a long time.
take it for what it’s worth
I reached out to Sebastian19X about aftermarket transmission mounts and he told me to stay away from them.
he said he killed a lot of side covers running them.he’s been running his car for a long time.
take it for what it’s worth
I see your running a QuickTime bell house and a mantic clutch me to.
since you don’t like doing maintenance I’m with you ,I cut a window in mine at the bottom were I could see what going on.around 4 1/2 w by 2 1/2 h
and also I drilled one hole inline with the pressure plate bolts if they back off.
I shouldn’t have any issues because I throw the nuts away that mantic sends with
the clutch and buy locking ones.
and I also do a little more clearance around we’re bleeder line come out.
in case I have to tighten them up.
i think we’re on the same page as far as to we’re we want to get our cars
I’m waiting on pistons /my best et was 10.52 /136.18 with a 1.605 /60 foot NA
ps from what I read I would stay away from aftermarket transmission mounts and stay with the oem transmission mounts
since you don’t like doing maintenance I’m with you ,I cut a window in mine at the bottom were I could see what going on.around 4 1/2 w by 2 1/2 h
and also I drilled one hole inline with the pressure plate bolts if they back off.
I shouldn’t have any issues because I throw the nuts away that mantic sends with
the clutch and buy locking ones.
and I also do a little more clearance around we’re bleeder line come out.
in case I have to tighten them up.
i think we’re on the same page as far as to we’re we want to get our cars
I’m waiting on pistons /my best et was 10.52 /136.18 with a 1.605 /60 foot NA
ps from what I read I would stay away from aftermarket transmission mounts and stay with the oem transmission mounts
Wheel hop what kill differential in C5/C/6 corvette. I’m running Henson motor mount and oem transmission mounts with no issues
I reached out to Sebastian19X about aftermarket transmission mounts and he told me to stay away from them.
he said he killed a lot of side covers running them.he’s been running his car for a long time.
take it for what it’s worth
I reached out to Sebastian19X about aftermarket transmission mounts and he told me to stay away from them.
he said he killed a lot of side covers running them.he’s been running his car for a long time.
take it for what it’s worth
Cam is in. Didn't like what i saw on the oil pan gasket though. It was torn/knicked around the oil pump gasket portion, probably from previous owner sliding the oil pump on over it instead of lowering the pan. Didn't have pressure issues, but it's no good. So I need to replace that and then I will get the AMT mounts in and Improved Racing oil thermostat on and plumbed. Only measured one, but quench came in right at 0.035 so should be good there.
Went to measure pushrods and when i put the intake rocker on, it only had 0.002" lash with no pushrod installed behind it. The exhaust rocker has 0.010"+ in it's torqued condition with no pushrod, the inside of the intake rocker is hitting the topside of the pedestal corner. So i will soften those corners up to help make room and make sure nothing is getting beat up at RPM. It's just way too close for comfort. The heads already needed clearanced at the most first/last locations for the rockers, so this is no biggie. Head studs are in and the cometic rivets are drilled out though. Slowly but surely getting there.. weather has been far too cooperative for February, but i will take it!
Went to measure pushrods and when i put the intake rocker on, it only had 0.002" lash with no pushrod installed behind it. The exhaust rocker has 0.010"+ in it's torqued condition with no pushrod, the inside of the intake rocker is hitting the topside of the pedestal corner. So i will soften those corners up to help make room and make sure nothing is getting beat up at RPM. It's just way too close for comfort. The heads already needed clearanced at the most first/last locations for the rockers, so this is no biggie. Head studs are in and the cometic rivets are drilled out though. Slowly but surely getting there.. weather has been far too cooperative for February, but i will take it!
Oil pan gasket is swapped, AMT mounts are in, Improved racing thermostat and lines are in, timing cover and balancer are on. Stupid T40 PLUS bit will be here today so i can torque those dumbass special bolts on the balancer. Torqued a head down and measured the pushrods. 7.6025" on the intake, 7.6665" on the exhaust (T&D rockers take about 0.100" of the factory length of 7.8, i had .062" cut off the heads, and my gasket is .011 thinner, so it lines up pretty well) I'll order those from Manton today. Upgraded the starter wiring and wrapped the starter. Heads are clearanced for the rockers. Was able to get 1 header wrapped, still need to do the other.
Hard parts are over. Just need to keep chipping away at getting the rack and accessories on. Then doing the aux pump setup and fitting the intakes. Probably put the stock intake on to get the exhaust fab'd, we'll see.
Hard parts are over. Just need to keep chipping away at getting the rack and accessories on. Then doing the aux pump setup and fitting the intakes. Probably put the stock intake on to get the exhaust fab'd, we'll see.
Intake pushrod holes need hogged out for the 3/8 rods to clear at max lift. A few were still really close, which was surprising. Another round of grinding coming up. Exhaust side has plenty of room after 2nd round of clearancing.