teardown has begun!
The crank pulley bolt is a one time use TTY bolt same deal as the head bolts. Thats why i mentioned old and new. It will not mess up any thread since its exactly the same thread pitch etc.. you just tighten the bolt to a snug fit. loosen it and install your new crank bolt to whatever the tourqe rating was plus the additional stretch as per GM
The crank pulley bolt is a one time use TTY bolt same deal as the head bolts. Thats why i mentioned old and new. It will not mess up any thread since its exactly the same thread pitch etc.. you just tighten the bolt to a snug fit. loosen it and install your new crank bolt to whatever the tourqe rating was plus the additional stretch as per GM
The crank pulley bolt is a one time use TTY bolt same deal as the head bolts. Thats why i mentioned old and new. It will not mess up any thread since its exactly the same thread pitch etc.. you just tighten the bolt to a snug fit. loosen it and install your new crank bolt to whatever the tourqe rating was plus the additional stretch as per GM
torque to yield, its a process of stretching the bolt to maximum torque. almost all the bolts on an engine are torque to yield. Imports have been shying away from them lately but on GM cars i know they continue to use them at the very least on the heads. Most aftermarket bolt mfg's like ARP will use a 3 step torque sequence of stretching the bolt, where as GM and other mfg's like to use degrees.
Great info on the mods, I have an 07 SS and starting to get ready to replace intake, delete DOD, swap cam and replace HB. Getting it tuned right after.
Question on pulling the engine out, is the set up on these LS4 cars similar to the f-body?
could these drop from the bottom with the cradle?
Question on pulling the engine out, is the set up on these LS4 cars similar to the f-body?
could these drop from the bottom with the cradle?
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Great info on the mods, I have an 07 SS and starting to get ready to replace intake, delete DOD, swap cam and replace HB. Getting it tuned right after.
Question on pulling the engine out, is the set up on these LS4 cars similar to the f-body?
could these drop from the bottom with the cradle?
Question on pulling the engine out, is the set up on these LS4 cars similar to the f-body?
could these drop from the bottom with the cradle?
Honestly if you have the capability, drop the cradle and take it out that way, makes life easier. Getting the engine in tonight was 2 hours of up and down and up and down and wiggle this way and angle this way not to mention the minor modification i had to make to the frame rail to get the crank pulley bolt back in.
Lets see the progress, and the minor modification.
ill snap some pics when i take the hood off tomorrow, we worked right up to 10pm and i was exhausted, modification is a minor notch in the frame rail right in front of the crank pulley bolt. Wasnt dropping the subframe an 1/8th of an inch. Damn motor would not budge an inch more even with it off the mounts to get the bolt past. lol
If someone could do me a huge favor with their car, I need pictures of how the battery cables are routed and where the grounds are mounted along the front of the engine and trans by the starter. Having trouble sorting this puzzle out.
I will try to get some pic tonight if you still need them.
ill snap some pics when i take the hood off tomorrow, we worked right up to 10pm and i was exhausted, modification is a minor notch in the frame rail right in front of the crank pulley bolt. Wasnt dropping the subframe an 1/8th of an inch. Damn motor would not budge an inch more even with it off the mounts to get the bolt past. lol
I'm also upgrading brakes and adding an in-line transmission fluid cooler.
I'm looking for a decent cam for the upgrade with close to stock LSA, maybe one close the hot cam specs but with 116 or 117 LSA, I don't want the lopy sound, car gets enough attention as it is....
Would the LS6 cam be a good upgrade?
X2, I would very much appreciate the pics of the frame rail mod. I've dropped the engine on my Camaro from the bottom twice and to me its much easier than thru the top, plus you keep most of the wiring/connections in place.
I'm also upgrading brakes and adding an in-line transmission fluid cooler.
I'm looking for a decent cam for the upgrade with close to stock LSA, maybe one close the hot cam specs but with 116 or 117 LSA, I don't want the lopy sound, car gets enough attention as it is....
Would the LS6 cam be a good upgrade?
I'm also upgrading brakes and adding an in-line transmission fluid cooler.
I'm looking for a decent cam for the upgrade with close to stock LSA, maybe one close the hot cam specs but with 116 or 117 LSA, I don't want the lopy sound, car gets enough attention as it is....
Would the LS6 cam be a good upgrade?
As far as porting the heads go, do not, i repeat, do not attempt to hand port them yourself. This is one car I would just not recommend that. Port velocity is going to be your critical feature here that is important to maintain, its not just a matter of hogging it out for max CFM. Go with a reputable CNC company, and don't go for just the largest port they offer, those ports are designed for high compression big cam cars. For instance you can get away with advanced inductions 218cc package and pickup some decent gains without over porting the intake side, but this will all rely heavily on what intake manifold you choose. An LS6 intake conversion is a must on these car's, my only reason for using the stock one right now is that i'm out of money for the budget for this car at the moment.
