LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 04:41 PM
  #221  
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Its not to hard at all once you get the dash out. I would say its prolly in the #40 range if you take out all the ac, heating pieces and the ac comp.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #222  
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Actually I would say it would be more like 60-75# all said and done, I just moved all that stuff around in my basement while cleaning up last weekend.

And if you take the AC compressor (at least 15+# itself), Condenser (front radiator thing), evaporator (inside Radiator type thing, all the lines, heater core, and all the stuff under the dash blower motor and duckt work, I could easily see 60-75#...
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 05:44 PM
  #223  
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i have the ac out besides the big box with the heating in it to, so weight savings of probably 45-50 u guys think.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 05:59 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by 1SlowFormula
Actually I would say it would be more like 60-75# all said and done, I just moved all that stuff around in my basement while cleaning up last weekend.

And if you take the AC compressor (at least 15+# itself), Condenser (front radiator thing), evaporator (inside Radiator type thing, all the lines, heater core, and all the stuff under the dash blower motor and duckt work, I could easily see 60-75#...
Good point i didnt think about all that stuff to. It very well could be 60-70 or more.
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #225  
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Im selling the K&N Cold air off my car to make way for a LS1 lid. If anyone wants it let me know.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 01:59 PM
  #226  
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I finally snapped a real quick picture of all of the wires I took out of my body harness. I didn't get to use the "crack scale," I normally use, but I figure it is pretty accurate. I stood on the scale to get my base weight and then picked up the box that had all of the wires in it.



It is roughly 14.5 lbs of wires that came out of the interior harness. I kept all of the wiring for things like the AC, all of the interior lights, shifter controls, power windows, and the things needed to make the car run.

I still have the under hood harness where I can remove quite a bit of extra crap. I should be able to take out all of the wiring for the emissions crap, foglights, cruise control, ABS, and all of the other things I took out. Hopefully, I can get around another 10ish pounds out of it and I'd be pretty happy.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 03:36 PM
  #227  
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
I finally snapped a real quick picture of all of the wires I took out of my body harness. I didn't get to use the "crack scale," I normally use, but I figure it is pretty accurate. I stood on the scale to get my base weight and then picked up the box that had all of the wires in it.



It is roughly 14.5 lbs of wires that came out of the interior harness. I kept all of the wiring for things like the AC, all of the interior lights, shifter controls, power windows, and the things needed to make the car run.

I still have the under hood harness where I can remove quite a bit of extra crap. I should be able to take out all of the wiring for the emissions crap, foglights, cruise control, ABS, and all of the other things I took out. Hopefully, I can get around another 10ish pounds out of it and I'd be pretty happy.

That is quite the box of wires man. I need to do my interior harness soon. What all did you cut out of the interior harness? Do you know if can take out all the a/c, radio,speaker, power seat and airbag harness without it affecting anything else??
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 05:13 PM
  #228  
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I took out a **** ton of stuff from the harness. The easiest way to do it is when you go to remove the harness from the car label what each plug connects to. If you have access to Alldata it can help you out some. I printed all of the wiring diagrams off of it for my 93 and used probably 8 of the 60 something pages I printed. The diagrams are pretty confusing and don't follow the same path they do in the car.

In regards to what I removed:
power mirrors
sterero
speakers
antena
rear defroster
light that goes inside of the center console
cig lighter
alarm
hazard flashers
all air bag wiring and modules
driver's power seat
emergency brake indicator
horn relay
Amongst a lot of other things.

It took me a really long time to do as I'm mostly color blind and I had to be very careful at what I was removing from the harness. I accidently cut out one of the brake lights at one point and had to reattach it.

It's best to recognize the plug and then follow all of the wires that are attached to it and see where they go. Some of the circuitry is really weird, like the power seat and rear defroster are tied together.

EDIT: Here's another random tip. Orange and pink wires are typically power wires. Black wires are grounds.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 05:32 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
I took out a **** ton of stuff from the harness. The easiest way to do it is when you go to remove the harness from the car label what each plug connects to. If you have access to Alldata it can help you out some. I printed all of the wiring diagrams off of it for my 93 and used probably 8 of the 60 something pages I printed. The diagrams are pretty confusing and don't follow the same path they do in the car.

In regards to what I removed:
power mirrors
sterero
speakers
antena
rear defroster
light that goes inside of the center console
cig lighter
alarm
hazard flashers
all air bag wiring and modules
driver's power seat
emergency brake indicator
horn relay
Amongst a lot of other things.

It took me a really long time to do as I'm mostly color blind and I had to be very careful at what I was removing from the harness. I accidently cut out one of the brake lights at one point and had to reattach it.

It's best to recognize the plug and then follow all of the wires that are attached to it and see where they go. Some of the circuitry is really weird, like the power seat and rear defroster are tied together.

EDIT: Here's another random tip. Orange and pink wires are typically power wires. Black wires are grounds.

Thanks man. That is going to be my next project to do. I tried to follow the wiring diagrams for the under hood harness...all it did was confuse the hell out of me. So i just said F it and went for it without the diagram lol.

Are any of the circuitry you listed tied into anything that will make the car not start and or run??? Also did you just un pin all the wiring from the interior fuse box and such??
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 08:05 PM
  #230  
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^ I wouldn't start at the fuse box. Pretty much all of the wires that run out of the fuse box are orange or pink. They run into some other weird circuitry. I would start at the plug and trace all of the wires from there. If they run into something odd like the plugs that run into the steering column or brake switches I wouldn't mess with them. That's how I accidently cut one of my brake wires.
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Old Jul 3, 2009 | 08:26 PM
  #231  
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Thats what i was going to do. Just start at the plug and trace it back to the fuse box or whatever it runs to and unpin it should i not do that?
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 12:50 AM
  #232  
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Looks like your making progress, I did a trans cooler and i cut the trans lines right before they curved up and slid on the rubber lines with some hose clamps, mounted the trans cooler infront of the radiator, and then connected the lines.
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 12:59 AM
  #233  
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Im so ready to drive it. I think im just going to use some AN fittings and hoses for the trans cooler. I dont have any factory cooler lines because of the 6spd. Hows yours coming along. i see you started working on the GTO.


Well i just ordered a SLP lid. Good bye stupid K&N CAI
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 03:59 PM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by 3rdgen92maro
Im so ready to drive it. I think im just going to use some AN fittings and hoses for the trans cooler. I dont have any factory cooler lines because of the 6spd. Hows yours coming along. i see you started working on the GTO.


Well i just ordered a SLP lid. Good bye stupid K&N CAI
yeah, an fittings are a good choice. The slp lid was one of my fav mods, free'd up a bunch of space and looks alot better, plus I heard they are good for a couple tenths in the 1/4
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Old Jul 4, 2009 | 11:34 PM
  #235  
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Im stoked to get it on or atleast attempt to make it fit lol. People are telling me that it wont fit under the stock hood without doing some cutting...it just so happens i love the cutting part lol. It should be here sometime next week.
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 09:39 PM
  #236  
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I just ordered the BMR crossmember and torque arm relocation setup for the th350 hopefully it gets here before the trans does.
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #237  
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The last few days have been fun to say the least. I got to tear the motor down again to change the timing chain. After hours of trying to adjust the rockers with no luck i tore it down to put on the double roller timing set i had on it. Well the stock chain was loose as hell to say the least. I could pull it over a 1/2 in either direction.

On the new timing set i just line up the dots correct? Thats how i have always done it on GEN 1 SBC's this is no diff right?

On a side note should I go ahead and paint the intake, timing cover and water pump? Im stuck between doing it black and polishing the ribs on the intake or red like the LT4 intake. What do you guys think?
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 02:12 AM
  #238  
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I painted everything I had for the lt1 gloss black except the intake manifold which I did in red to break it up some. You can spend a ton of time painting and polishing things. I spent a good week between sand blasting, waashing, prepping, painting, and polishing. It all turned out really well though so I would say it was worth the time. It made all of it much easier to sell too when I had to sell everything.
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Old Jul 10, 2009 | 02:17 AM
  #239  
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thats what i was thinking. Do the timing cover and WP gloss black and the intake red wtih the ribs nice and polished along with the fuel rails and maybe attempt to do the TB.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #240  
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I just got the BMR trans crossmember and let me tell you the quality is unreal. I can't wait till the trans gets here so i can install this beast.



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