"thepartsladi" is GONE...next best place for an Opti?
#4
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MOTHERF*(*ER ....... now im pissed cause I really needed one . I emailed her so hopefully she'll get back to me. She been in my watch list for about 3wks cause I was about to order 1 in about 2wks from now........F**k wish I would of ordered one right there and then since Ive had the cash laying around.
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#11
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This is something you might try if your feeling lucky. I have done it with success.
IMHO, there are only three parts in a crappy NON OEM opti that will cause problems. The cap, the 360 segment optical wheel and the optical sensor.
Crappy caps are not insulated well enough and sparks can shoot out of it and go to the closest ground or to another trace. The crappy pulse wheel does not have perfectly consistent, clean cut segments cut in the wheel or the wheel is warped and rubbing the sensor and will throw high res codes. The crappy sensor may not be of correct spec and does not shine properly through the 360 segments.
Might consider taking a OEM worn out opti apart and scavenge the wheel and sensor and install them in a new NON OEM opti. The OEM sensor wont go bad unless its corroded at the connector because all it really is, is two pair of LEDs and as we all know, LEDs dont typically burn out. If the pulse wheel installs and runs flat and true and does not rub the sensor in the aftermarket opti, it should work fine being transplanted.
The only opti issues I have ever encountered were mainly with the caps. If the NON OEM cap is too crappy to use, there will be misfires which should be easy to detect. You can spray a light mist of water on the opti while the motor is running to see if you have arcing from the aftermarket cap.
Dissecting the opti is not very difficult and it is possible to build one out of donor parts and a quality cap and save a bundle. Also make sure the seals are in decent shape or seal it up with right stuff.
My two cents.
IMHO, there are only three parts in a crappy NON OEM opti that will cause problems. The cap, the 360 segment optical wheel and the optical sensor.
Crappy caps are not insulated well enough and sparks can shoot out of it and go to the closest ground or to another trace. The crappy pulse wheel does not have perfectly consistent, clean cut segments cut in the wheel or the wheel is warped and rubbing the sensor and will throw high res codes. The crappy sensor may not be of correct spec and does not shine properly through the 360 segments.
Might consider taking a OEM worn out opti apart and scavenge the wheel and sensor and install them in a new NON OEM opti. The OEM sensor wont go bad unless its corroded at the connector because all it really is, is two pair of LEDs and as we all know, LEDs dont typically burn out. If the pulse wheel installs and runs flat and true and does not rub the sensor in the aftermarket opti, it should work fine being transplanted.
The only opti issues I have ever encountered were mainly with the caps. If the NON OEM cap is too crappy to use, there will be misfires which should be easy to detect. You can spray a light mist of water on the opti while the motor is running to see if you have arcing from the aftermarket cap.
Dissecting the opti is not very difficult and it is possible to build one out of donor parts and a quality cap and save a bundle. Also make sure the seals are in decent shape or seal it up with right stuff.
My two cents.
#15
TECH Veteran
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The Delphi optis were sold locally here for $325 a few years ago at a parts house called http://www.koiautoparts.com/
I just called them up and they want $490 for vented and $578 for unvented.
I just called them up and they want $490 for vented and $578 for unvented.
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Last edited by wrd1972; 05-13-2010 at 08:52 AM.