GM race shop block
#301
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Yes I know the water pump and distributor are not compatible, I'm just saying that if someone has the 24x system running their LT1 that the same system with minor changes would run a sbc with all the efi parts swapped over from the LT1. The intake isn't a direct bot on, but it can be easily modified to fit and house a distributor in the rear. It wouldn't look identical, but I bet most people would not notice at first glance. You could even run a regular SBC electric water pump and use the LT1 accesories.
#302
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Yes I know the water pump and distributor are not compatible, I'm just saying that if someone has the 24x system running their LT1 that the same system with minor changes would run a sbc with all the efi parts swapped over from the LT1. The intake isn't a direct bot on, but it can be easily modified to fit and house a distributor in the rear. It wouldn't look identical, but I bet most people would not notice at first glance. You could even run a regular SBC electric water pump and use the LT1 accesories.
All they have left is a reverse cooled SBC with LS (or aftermarket) engine management. Why not take the next step and just run an aftermarket SBC block.
#303
That's what I've been saying. Serious LT1 race guys have been ditching the opti, cam driven water pump and even the intake for a single plane. Basically everything that makes the LT1 an LT1.
All they have left is a reverse cooled SBC with LS (or aftermarket) engine management. Why not take the next step and just run an aftermarket SBC block.
All they have left is a reverse cooled SBC with LS (or aftermarket) engine management. Why not take the next step and just run an aftermarket SBC block.
If I was going to run another motor it wouldn't be lsx or SBC, it would be BBC.
#305
#306
This. If you want to go really fast NA a BBC is where it's at. One good thing about a big block is the T56 will bolt right up to it. Unlike a LSX block you have to junk your T56. BBC > LSX anyday.
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All of my f-bodies are T56, but if I put a big block in I would throw a TH400 behind it.
There are a few really good threads in the section right up under this one. Or sub-section I guess you could call it. It seems that you need a tubular k-member (one guy modified his stock "k" by sectioning the center of it) and there is a good portion of your cowling that must go away. The headers that most used are an off the shelf header for an early camaro (if I remember correctly) that you have to modify tubes #1 & maybe #3 on. I would imagine an LS1 rack & steering shaft would help things too.
I wonder why you couldn't just bolt one straight to the LT1 k-member??
There are a few really good threads in the section right up under this one. Or sub-section I guess you could call it. It seems that you need a tubular k-member (one guy modified his stock "k" by sectioning the center of it) and there is a good portion of your cowling that must go away. The headers that most used are an off the shelf header for an early camaro (if I remember correctly) that you have to modify tubes #1 & maybe #3 on. I would imagine an LS1 rack & steering shaft would help things too.
I wonder why you couldn't just bolt one straight to the LT1 k-member??
#308
That's MISTER MODERATOR
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#311
#320
Who told you that? A few years ago I was shooting emails back and forth with Dr Jamie Meyer. He had never even heard about this block. These blocks were not made inside of a GM foundry, they were made at an outsourced foundry that had done work for GM in the past.