Help pushin a stockbottom end lt1 into the 10s
I'm going to swap out the cam for something new and see what she'll do.
That's great to hear. Did you ever get an aftermarket TQ arm or shocks?
It's been awhile since I read this whole thread....do you street drive the car much? Asking because that will really effect your cam choice. Being one the stock bottom end effects it too I'm sure. I bet you will want to keep your max rpm close to where it is now.
It's been awhile since I read this whole thread....do you street drive the car much? Asking because that will really effect your cam choice. Being one the stock bottom end effects it too I'm sure. I bet you will want to keep your max rpm close to where it is now.
You may be able to make something like an adjustable pinion snubber much cheaper than a torque arm purchase. They had non-adjustable snubbers on the old Mopars from the factory. I think something like this may help, on a budget, control some differential wrap. Just a thought
I need to do something with the rear suspension, the last time I went to the track the car spun bad two out of three passes.
I'm going to make some phone calls to some lt1 specialty shops to see if I can get a cam spec'd for this set up.
I'm going to make some phone calls to some lt1 specialty shops to see if I can get a cam spec'd for this set up.
Do you know where your peak power / tq is at, maybe you have a little too much gear and the motor is on a downward slope past your pulling power, as with 6 speeds, people would short shift, stay in the power zone and run better numbers.What are your RPM's at then end of the quarter.
Just read this whole thread. I'm hoping once I get my 503 that I'll be able to run these times. I'm going the less is more route, and stripping just about everything out as well. Nice build
I'm sure plenty will be more specific, or fault me for being vague, but I would look for something with about 10* more duration on both sides and close to .600" lift - give or take .020" and a 108* to 110* LSA. In my opinion it won't matter a whole lot what specific grind/manufacturer you choose if it is in that range it will perform about the same.
That being said, I'd like to see you get some shocks, a good adjustable TQ arm, and TQ arm relocation crossmember on it and see if you can get the 60' down some more before you go into the motor.
That being said, I'd like to see you get some shocks, a good adjustable TQ arm, and TQ arm relocation crossmember on it and see if you can get the 60' down some more before you go into the motor.
Call AI and ask Phil to spec you a cam.
With their 228 cam that I'm running, I think you'd easily make that 10.70 goal at your weight. Many are going to say go bigger, but unless you want to step up the converter again, I think something around that duration is going to give you the best useable power through the 1/4 mile.
With their 228 cam that I'm running, I think you'd easily make that 10.70 goal at your weight. Many are going to say go bigger, but unless you want to step up the converter again, I think something around that duration is going to give you the best useable power through the 1/4 mile.
need more cam! plenty of converter... something about 10 degrees bigger on a 106 lsa would work nicely. A 232/238 on a 107.5 would do nicely, installed on a 104. Bullet has a nice .605" intake lobe and a .590" exhaust lobe that would work well here. Comp would be a 232/240 on a 108, installed on a 104. Lift is .603 intake and .609 exhaust. I'd probably step up the springs to pac 1219s (drop-in beehives for ~150 shipped) or shim what I'm assuming to be comp 26918 beehives down to .030-.035 from bind.