LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

No crank. Have spark and fuel psi

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Old 08-31-2010, 09:51 PM
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Default No crank. Have spark and fuel psi

Ok this cars been nothing but trouble since I got it. Just got it running again after a stopped up fuel filter with what I suspect was sugar. But That was another thread.

I'm getting spark. Everytime the engine turns over the plug sparks. I tested two different plugs. Icm tested good. It's a newer one. Coil tested good. It's a 4 month old msd. New plugs and wires and a summit opti with less than 5000 miles on it.

I'm getting 50 psi at the fuel rail. I know that's high but I think the prior owner jacked it up to compensate for no tune and the bigger cam.

I lost my test light so I haven't tested injector pulse. I also haven't scanned the car it's at my house and I don't have an aldl cable.


I've tried cranking it on starter fluid with no success. It won't do anything until I let off the key and then it coughs about two times and blows it back out the tb.


Can an opti be bad and still give spark to the plugs? It's almost acting like it jumped time but the motor only has around 70000-80000 miles on it. The car quit running when I pulled into the driveway and hasn't started back.
Old 08-31-2010, 11:32 PM
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Can you hear the injectors clicking? Also, did you mess with the plug wires or opti? They could be on in the wrong order. Also, are the plugs wet?
Old 09-01-2010, 12:27 AM
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I say the most likely culprit are the injectors. I would start at the injectors first, then check the coil (some MSD coils are crap for our cars), then check the opti.
Old 09-01-2010, 01:18 AM
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Anybody say fuse yet? PCM fuse, perhaps?
Old 09-01-2010, 02:26 PM
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Sounds like an ignition problem to me. If it was fuel related, the starting fluid would have fired it up. I'm with everyone else, check all the fuses related to ignition/fuel/pcm, and make sure your plug wires are all in the right order. The plugs can fire when opti is bad, but you should notice a weaker spark or inconsistent spark.

Can't beat the Chandler Motorsports Opti's off of Ebay for about $100. You can get 6 of those for the price of a Delco. Chandler Opti's do have warranties and he does honor them.
Old 09-01-2010, 02:38 PM
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Also check the fuel injector fuses- 7.5A, 2 of them, in the relay box, driver's fender well.
Old 09-02-2010, 05:39 PM
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Ok. I checked all fuses and they are fine. The injectors are firing. So that left the good old opti.

Pulled the Waterpump and it is missing some bearings. Im guessing there is a slow leak and it killed the opti. Thats why the prior owner went through 3 of them in the last year. Kept replacing the distributor with a leaky water pump. lol.

Im about to order an Electric pump and a chandler opti.
Old 09-02-2010, 05:59 PM
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Ok, when I buy the Chandler Opti do I need to order the opti and the cap or just the opti?
Old 09-03-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by IronOutlaw
Ok, when I buy the Chandler Opti do I need to order the opti and the cap or just the opti?
Unit comes complete
Old 09-08-2010, 05:49 PM
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Water pump was leaking on the opti. Got my new unit installed today but still no crank. Now I'm getting some popping noises through the exhaust. I'm getting good spark on every plug. Plugs look dirty but are still sparking fine.
I tried starter fluid but that didn't help. The injectors are getting power to fire. Good fuel psi.

I don't know what to check next. Should I pull the timing cover and check the chain? I'm 100% sure the wires are in the correct order.

Is there any way to install the opti wrong to throw off timing? I turned the spline until it finally clicked and pushed on there easily.


How can I test the PCM?
Old 09-08-2010, 07:27 PM
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Just a side note. One of the rotor screws fell outta the old opti. It was a summit brand with less than 3000 miles. I haven't driven this car overly hard and shift points are at 6000.
Old 09-09-2010, 06:24 PM
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Ok made some progress. Apparently there's 2 slots for the opti to go into the camshaft. It was 180 off and I got that straightened out. (I did not force the opti on at anytime, it just clicked into place)

After that the car is all but cranking. I can turn it over and let off the key and it will try to crank and turn over for about 3 seconds really slow. Every now and then it will let off a LOUD backfire out the exhaust and you can see a flame shoot out the pipe.

I may have flooded the car and am letting I sit for a while before I try to crank it again

I have tuner pro on my laptop but no cable. I'm gonna order a cable tomorrow and see what going on when It comes in if I don't have it fixed by then.
Old 09-09-2010, 06:53 PM
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did you look at the starter at all?
Old 09-09-2010, 07:10 PM
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Starters turning over plenty fast enough to crank car. I have it hooked up to a charger/booster.
Old 09-10-2010, 12:02 AM
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i had a similar problem a while back and same as you everything tested fine. I was convinced it was a a ignition problem so i went to my local junkyard and picked up a icm and coil, swapped the two as a whole unit and the car started right up and has been running since. The coil i replaced was a msd unit that i ran for 40k miles. I never did pinpoint which one of the two was bad but it was definitely one of em. Also one quick question are you saying your car doesn't crank or are you saying it doesn't start?

Last edited by musclehead; 09-10-2010 at 12:09 AM.
Old 09-10-2010, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by IronOutlaw
Ok made some progress. Apparently there's 2 slots for the opti to go into the camshaft. It was 180 off and I got that straightened out. (I did not force the opti on at anytime, it just clicked into place)

After that the car is all but cranking. I can turn it over and let off the key and it will try to crank and turn over for about 3 seconds really slow. Every now and then it will let off a LOUD backfire out the exhaust and you can see a flame shoot out the pipe.

I may have flooded the car and am letting I sit for a while before I try to crank it again

I have tuner pro on my laptop but no cable. I'm gonna order a cable tomorrow and see what going on when It comes in if I don't have it fixed by then.
"Starters turning over plenty fast enough to crank car" What does that mean??

VOCABULARY.

First, start using the correct words to describe what's going on. I can't figure out how to advise you if you continue to use the wrong words.

"Crank/cranking/turn(ing) over" mean the same thing.

"Starting/start" are different; that means the engine is/will run/idle.

Take your time and choose the correct words then maybe we can get somewhere.

Jake
Old 09-10-2010, 01:23 AM
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I think he means that after cranking/trying to start it, if he lets off the key, it will cough and sputter, and try to run for about 3 seconds, not just die off immediately. I don't know what it is exactly, I mean it sounds ignition related, but it could be that you've got a couple of plug wires in the wrong order.
Old 09-10-2010, 09:39 AM
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make sure the insulators on your plugs arent broken.

do a compression test.

make sure egr is not sticking.
Old 09-10-2010, 01:33 PM
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sounds like a couple of plug wires are backwards.
Old 09-10-2010, 05:55 PM
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I'll explain for jakejr. The starter is cranking the engine. It is rotating the engine at enough rpms that it should be able to start. I used the wrong word in the title.

Today I sorted through all the wires to make sure nothing was burned or grounded (bare wire). Everything looked fine.

Today the car actually started and ran at about 300 rpms and then backfired loud and died. It really does sound like crossed wires but I've checked them at least 5 times.

Im gonna go ahead and buy a coil. I used the ohm test to test it which isn't 100% accurate.

I'm still getting loud backfires out the exhaust.

And transporter I checked both of the wires coming off the starter and they were fine. I even bypassed the relay under the dash that the purple wire runs to trying to make it do something different.


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