Electric water pump
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Electric water pump
Hey guys, i am about to do a 503 cam and pac springs. Would like to do an electric pump as well. Came across a CSR pump for 186 bucks, they say 36 gal flow, k also came across a CVR pump for 210 bucks that flows 56 gal. Was wondering if the higher flow would be to much? And does anyone have the CVR pump? I have not heard of this companies pump. Thanks
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CVR is summits brand(flows ~35 gpm), it flows enough for a street car... though, some people on here are highly against an electric pump I am for it as long as it's used on more or less a street/strip car.
35GPM is fine for my car... also, according to the formula in my sig, you can NEVER have too much flow.
35GPM is fine for my car... also, according to the formula in my sig, you can NEVER have too much flow.
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About 20gpm at 2000rpms through the restriction of the system and 66gpm at 6000rpms again as restricted by the system. Be careful comparing this to electrics which are free flow rated.
An often overlooked fact of physics is the ONLY way an electric pump can free up power is by moving less water.
An often overlooked fact of physics is the ONLY way an electric pump can free up power is by moving less water.
with this being said... unless you are driving around at a constant ~3000 rpms you will be fine... at least in theory.
Here in TX when it was ~100 out and driving in town with a 160* thermostat it would stay right around 170-180... on the highway @ 2400 RPM it would stay rougly 10* warmer...
Last edited by lt1slowz28; 01-20-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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So for a dd and weekend bracket racing the more flow the better? I dont really like the idea of an electric pump...electric parts fail, the extra sequrity of a mechanical pump is great and what it was designed for. But the extra 10 horse would be great also. It would be nice as well to be able to turn on the pump to cool the engine on hot summer bracket racing...damn stuff gets HOT goin rounds. Anyone have any idea how much i will gain doing the cam only change with the 503 cam?
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for the Meziere ewp, youll need to trim the fan shroud. On the csr, youll have to grind down 4 tabs on the actuall ewp. Right outside the o-ring iirc. The csr wont require you to trim the fan shroud.
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You need to understand the electrics are FREEFLOW rated the flow data we have for the stocker is in the system complete with stat restriction and all and at 4800ish engine rpm it is moving 66gpm.
lt1slowz28 is apparently brighter than average because he actually sees that at 2400rpm cruise the 35gpm electric is already allowing temps to creep up. This is because AS INSTALLED the electrics can not move their rated flow against the restrictions.
Here is a post where someone posted SAE's graph of LT1 pump flow.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/6566221-post63.html
It is in pump rpm and the pump ends up overdriven a bit, a few of us counted teeth and figured it out at one point but end result was 6000 pump rpm was somewhere just a shade over 4800 engine rpm.
Electrics generally cool adequately nothing more, they are not the super cooling mod many retards will tell you they are.
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at idle they flow MORE, and that's what I needed at the time of purchase. granted none of us other than maybe mike are running around at 5000 RPM on the street constantly. depending on which pump you get the cruising flow of the pump may be ~= the stockers flow that has been proven time and time again to be more than ample... it's a give and take, you loose any flow past the free flow rated 30-50 GPM for that same flow at an idle or with the engine off.
if you do a lot of road trips or long street driving with a higher ratio rear end you may or may not end up overheating depending on the condition of the rest of your system... 96Capricemgr feels very strong about the stock unit, with good reason! It's more than anyone will ever need, readily available and doesnt have the tendancy to just die on you without warning.
the only way you gain HP with the electric is that it flows LESS at higher RPM, though in the low RPM(albeit low enough for no one to care) you very well could be losing power...
#19
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With all due respect to Dwayne.....I'll say that it doesn't seem to make any difference most of the time. When I took my Impala to St. Louis I did notice that in downtown traffic (trying to find a Hooters) that the car did stay cooler. The temp never crept up like the old pump did. Driving down I-64 I never saw any temp difference and some of that was at sustained triple digit speeds.
From my personal experience (I have the 55 GPM) there's no apparent disadvantage at all and it gives better flow while idling in stop and go traffic. My Impala isn't anywhere near stock either and the electric works just fine.
If you're going to race you can turn on your fans and the pump will run and cool your car down between runs.....with the engine off.
From my personal experience (I have the 55 GPM) there's no apparent disadvantage at all and it gives better flow while idling in stop and go traffic. My Impala isn't anywhere near stock either and the electric works just fine.
If you're going to race you can turn on your fans and the pump will run and cool your car down between runs.....with the engine off.
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use the stock water pump.
the mechanical pump uses power to turn it, which it gets its power from the engine thru the pulley system.
electric water pumps run off the battery. you take the pump off of the engine pulley system freeing up the lower that was previously used to turn the pump. which is the 10 HP that everyone is referring to.
for a car that only sees drag race / occasional driving/ not far from home in case something goes wrong, yes a electric water pump can work. in the drags, or close to home the getting back to the pits / tow back home isnt too bad. on a car that you cruise with/ drive daily/ stuck in traffic at 5 MPH on 100 degree day trying to have the AC on, you might pucker up a bit as the temps creep up on you. that and one day, the electric motor will just die without any warnings whatsoever, again leaving you stranded on the side of the road. its not an if, its a when.
IMO put the 200 towards something else
the mechanical pump uses power to turn it, which it gets its power from the engine thru the pulley system.
electric water pumps run off the battery. you take the pump off of the engine pulley system freeing up the lower that was previously used to turn the pump. which is the 10 HP that everyone is referring to.
for a car that only sees drag race / occasional driving/ not far from home in case something goes wrong, yes a electric water pump can work. in the drags, or close to home the getting back to the pits / tow back home isnt too bad. on a car that you cruise with/ drive daily/ stuck in traffic at 5 MPH on 100 degree day trying to have the AC on, you might pucker up a bit as the temps creep up on you. that and one day, the electric motor will just die without any warnings whatsoever, again leaving you stranded on the side of the road. its not an if, its a when.
IMO put the 200 towards something else