Well.... do i want to buy this 93?
10-03-2005, 12:21 AM
#1
Well.... do i want to buy this 93? Ok... im 17 and my dad is going to spend $3000-$4000 for my graduation present... possibly 5g's. (please no "I hate people who get **** handed to them" responses.
My buddys parents own a used car lot with a 93 Firebird Formula. Asking $3000 cash. Is it worth it? IM not sure on milage. It has nice aftermarket 16" chrome wheels on it (dont care though, wheels dont make it n e faster).
Now my problems i see here are that the LT1 is talked down MAJORLY. Also, the 93's are talked down because of something they had different than later years.
Also... for that extra $1000 or 2... what can i do to make that car really scoot?
Thanks... please explain everything you know to me....
This is the car my dad is supposed to give me someday. I already drive this more than him... mildly build chevy 396 BBC under the hood of it.
. Got to love the 70 firebird.
My buddys parents own a used car lot with a 93 Firebird Formula. Asking $3000 cash. Is it worth it? IM not sure on milage. It has nice aftermarket 16" chrome wheels on it (dont care though, wheels dont make it n e faster).
Now my problems i see here are that the LT1 is talked down MAJORLY. Also, the 93's are talked down because of something they had different than later years.
Also... for that extra $1000 or 2... what can i do to make that car really scoot?
Thanks... please explain everything you know to me....
This is the car my dad is supposed to give me someday. I already drive this more than him... mildly build chevy 396 BBC under the hood of it.
. Got to love the 70 firebird. 
10-03-2005, 12:40 AM
#3
****, get that 93!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I love my 93, there ARE MAJOR differences in 93+ like tranny, ECU OBD2, and alot more ****. And if its at good milage, get a compression test dont if it passes get a nice cam, or get a buch of bolt ons. GOOD LUCK MAN, god speed.
10-03-2005, 12:46 AM
#5
lol... not for looks... i dont like the 93-97 look wise.... i jsut want to haul ***...
Knowing that dealership... it probly aint the best milage. but im personal friends with the owner and mechanics, so if something is wrong they will tell me.
IM thinking a big cam, valve springs (For the big cam), 4:10s, and a ratchet shifter (those are just fun). Plus flowmaster exhaust. Unless you guys got so tips to make this sum bitch really get it. Oh.. and if the ratchet shifter does't give it away... its auto.
i have a LS1 that im rebuilding to put into my bagged s10 right now.
again... thanks!
Knowing that dealership... it probly aint the best milage. but im personal friends with the owner and mechanics, so if something is wrong they will tell me.
IM thinking a big cam, valve springs (For the big cam), 4:10s, and a ratchet shifter (those are just fun). Plus flowmaster exhaust. Unless you guys got so tips to make this sum bitch really get it. Oh.. and if the ratchet shifter does't give it away... its auto.
i have a LS1 that im rebuilding to put into my bagged s10 right now.
again... thanks!
10-03-2005, 12:46 AM
#6
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Eh, make sure it's had the maintenance kept up on it if you do get it. My 93 had the Optispark & waterpump replaced at 70k and it's got 99k on it right now. If you do have to have the work done, upgrade to a 95+ vented optispark so it'll last longer.
Another thing - stock for stock 93s are the slowest of the LT1s, but that's mainly because of gearing. The T56 6-speeds in them are called the M29 and the M28 and came with either a 3.23 or 2.73 rear respectivley. Both trannies have more aggressive 1st and 2nd gears than the 94+ T56 does so they REALLY wake up when you swap out for 3.42 or 3.73 gears.
93s are also speed-density rather than mass air. In my mind speed-density is a better setup for making power and going fast simply because you don't have to work around the MAF like other years. There's no need for MAF ends, bigger MAFs, MAF tuning, etc. Plus, if you ever go F.I. speed-density is the way to go anyway.
I could sit here and talk about the car all I want, but if you need proof that 93s aren't so bad after all, look at the E/T in my sig. I managed that on 245/50/17 street tires while powershifting every gear.
Another thing - stock for stock 93s are the slowest of the LT1s, but that's mainly because of gearing. The T56 6-speeds in them are called the M29 and the M28 and came with either a 3.23 or 2.73 rear respectivley. Both trannies have more aggressive 1st and 2nd gears than the 94+ T56 does so they REALLY wake up when you swap out for 3.42 or 3.73 gears.
93s are also speed-density rather than mass air. In my mind speed-density is a better setup for making power and going fast simply because you don't have to work around the MAF like other years. There's no need for MAF ends, bigger MAFs, MAF tuning, etc. Plus, if you ever go F.I. speed-density is the way to go anyway.
I could sit here and talk about the car all I want, but if you need proof that 93s aren't so bad after all, look at the E/T in my sig. I managed that on 245/50/17 street tires while powershifting every gear.
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10-03-2005, 08:49 AM
#8
I don't know if I believe the statement that stock for stock 93's are the slowest. I have an m29 93 z28 and I raced several 94 and later cars when I was stock and beat quite a few of them. The 93's m29 gear ratios are deeper 1st-3rd and 5th and 6th are also deeper. The m28 is similar to the m29, but with a deeper 1st and lower torque rating of 350 ft lbs instead of 400. I put 3.73's in mine and at 80 mph I am at about 2500 in 6th. the newer t56's would be closer to 2000 at 80 with 3.73's. Putting 3.73's in a m29 car is about like putting 4.10's in a 94 and newer t56 except 5th and 6th will cruise higher rpm for the m29 car. If everything cehcked out ok on the car, I would get that 93. They are getting harder to come by. Also does the car have the 110 speedo or the 150. If it has the 110 fuel cutoff wil be around 110 mph and will probably have 2.73's in it, but not positive on the gear ratio.
10-03-2005, 09:22 AM
#9
93 Lt1
Originally Posted by M29_Formula
Eh, make sure it's had the maintenance kept up on it if you do get it. My 93 had the Optispark & waterpump replaced at 70k and it's got 99k on it right now. If you do have to have the work done, upgrade to a 95+ vented optispark so it'll last longer.
Another thing - stock for stock 93s are the slowest of the LT1s, but that's mainly because of gearing. The T56 6-speeds in them are called the M29 and the M28 and came with either a 3.23 or 2.73 rear respectivley. Both trannies have more aggressive 1st and 2nd gears than the 94+ T56 does so they REALLY wake up when you swap out for 3.42 or 3.73 gears.
93s are also speed-density rather than mass air. In my mind speed-density is a better setup for making power and going fast simply because you don't have to work around the MAF like other years. There's no need for MAF ends, bigger MAFs, MAF tuning, etc. Plus, if you ever go F.I. speed-density is the way to go anyway.
I could sit here and talk about the car all I want, but if you need proof that 93s aren't so bad after all, look at the E/T in my sig. I managed that on 245/50/17 street tires while powershifting every gear.
Another thing - stock for stock 93s are the slowest of the LT1s, but that's mainly because of gearing. The T56 6-speeds in them are called the M29 and the M28 and came with either a 3.23 or 2.73 rear respectivley. Both trannies have more aggressive 1st and 2nd gears than the 94+ T56 does so they REALLY wake up when you swap out for 3.42 or 3.73 gears.
93s are also speed-density rather than mass air. In my mind speed-density is a better setup for making power and going fast simply because you don't have to work around the MAF like other years. There's no need for MAF ends, bigger MAFs, MAF tuning, etc. Plus, if you ever go F.I. speed-density is the way to go anyway.
I could sit here and talk about the car all I want, but if you need proof that 93s aren't so bad after all, look at the E/T in my sig. I managed that on 245/50/17 street tires while powershifting every gear.
10-03-2005, 03:30 PM
#10
Sounds like it could be a good deal but do your homework first. Don't buy a car that you don't know the mileage / maintenance status on. It's just a bad idea and you don't know what you're getting into. It could have 100k and last you ten years or it could have 250k and be about to blow up in your face.
10-03-2005, 04:00 PM
#11
I think 93 is the best year hands down. I have a 94 and im not a fan of Mass air flow senors, After all most after market standalones use speed density.
Yeah the Lt1 is downed by people who have never driven one and think that Ls1s are some god like motor. I like both and have driven both with botlons, Honestly theres not a huge differnce. Its one of those things people over exagerat about and you get let down. I would still rather have a Ls1, But i like my lt1. A good running well kept Lt1 will stay almost even in the 1/4 with a Ls1 on the street, Kinda a drivers race. But most Lt1s are a lil tired and need to be freshend up.
Yeah the Lt1 is downed by people who have never driven one and think that Ls1s are some god like motor. I like both and have driven both with botlons, Honestly theres not a huge differnce. Its one of those things people over exagerat about and you get let down. I would still rather have a Ls1, But i like my lt1. A good running well kept Lt1 will stay almost even in the 1/4 with a Ls1 on the street, Kinda a drivers race. But most Lt1s are a lil tired and need to be freshend up.
1993 Camaro Z28 
10-03-2005, 05:51 PM
#16
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i think LT1's look great... they can be fast aswell as look awesome... i get complimented on mine all the time,
93's are awesome... and i am biased to LT1's, so if everything checks out... go for it... and i wouldnt go flowmasters... look at a borla, or GMMG... also go with long tube headers and a CAI or Ram air... the stock air box is ****.
93's are awesome... and i am biased to LT1's, so if everything checks out... go for it... and i wouldnt go flowmasters... look at a borla, or GMMG... also go with long tube headers and a CAI or Ram air... the stock air box is ****.
10-03-2005, 06:50 PM
#20
ok.. well i drove it today... i walked paston my way inside and the guy said $2500 and take it. The mech said he will probly take $2000 if i offered it.
It has 180k on it. Body is somewhat rough (girl owned it... no offence to the ladies). I had to jump the car to start it... and after that i found out it had exhaust leaks (wapred or cracked manifolds). Well that can be fixed for as cheap as the car is.
I took it out and of course its a v8 so you got to see what she can do... stop on it (bogs low a bit)... then the thing wakes up and RIPPED... then.... bah bah bah... sounds like it is missing. Get to a stop sig. The car idles rough (it did on intitial start up too), alsmost roungh enough to die.
To make a long story short it died a little more ways down the road. It would not start. The battery died. WEll the alternater was out and dead battery. Got it back to the lot and put a fresh battery in and the thing fired up and idled smooth. Tested alternater and sure enough it was junk.
Rough body (scufs, scratchs, chips, and small crack in fiberglass on door)... gauges dont work. 180k. Exhaust leaks.
They will replace the alternater of course for me.
I love the way the car drived (need aligned... but still). It seemed to tear it up at cetain RPM (would the miss be because there was not enough battery to get spark at high RPMs?).
That is the info i got for ya... so tell me your opinion... For 2k you can't expect much anyways... so what you all say?
LIke i said... seems like with proper spark the thing runs hard.
one more thing... low retail on car is $3900... soo... cant be all that bad of a price right?
It has 180k on it. Body is somewhat rough (girl owned it... no offence to the ladies). I had to jump the car to start it... and after that i found out it had exhaust leaks (wapred or cracked manifolds). Well that can be fixed for as cheap as the car is.
I took it out and of course its a v8 so you got to see what she can do... stop on it (bogs low a bit)... then the thing wakes up and RIPPED... then.... bah bah bah... sounds like it is missing. Get to a stop sig. The car idles rough (it did on intitial start up too), alsmost roungh enough to die.
To make a long story short it died a little more ways down the road. It would not start. The battery died. WEll the alternater was out and dead battery. Got it back to the lot and put a fresh battery in and the thing fired up and idled smooth. Tested alternater and sure enough it was junk.
Rough body (scufs, scratchs, chips, and small crack in fiberglass on door)... gauges dont work. 180k. Exhaust leaks.
They will replace the alternater of course for me.
I love the way the car drived (need aligned... but still). It seemed to tear it up at cetain RPM (would the miss be because there was not enough battery to get spark at high RPMs?).
That is the info i got for ya... so tell me your opinion... For 2k you can't expect much anyways... so what you all say?
LIke i said... seems like with proper spark the thing runs hard.
one more thing... low retail on car is $3900... soo... cant be all that bad of a price right?