leachbuz

iTrader: (1)

I have a 1997 trans am that dynoed at 532bhp; car has a 355ci forged LT1, 9:0:1 compression, lighter valves/springs (all roller), boost cam, P1SC procharger with 3.40 pulley, 42lbs injectors, electronic ignition, headers, 3in exhaust, and a few other mods.

But before I put the car back together I'm going to put a clutch in as well.

MY QUESTION:
how is the centerforce dual friction clutch to drive . . . is it an ON/OFF kind of clutch? Is it easy to engage? Any other info would be great.

thanks,
Buzz

squee

iTrader: (16)

Its like a on/off switch. Just get a Monster clutch. I've heard nothing but good things about them.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Never had one on an LT1, but on an LS1 it is not bad at all driveability wise, most certainly not on/off, please..... But it does not hold up well under racing, or high hp. Stock car/boltons, good clutch, anything more, look elsewhere.

Something more along the lines of on/off is a powergrip hd, I had one of those too, it's got good holding power, but doesnt last at the strip...

I dont know if monster makes an LT1 clutch, but I am getting their stage 3 for my LS1.

squee

iTrader: (16)

Don't know about yours, but mines like a on/off switch. It got slightly better after adjusting the master cylinder, but its still not all that great. REAL grabby feeling.

dilatedpeoples28

iTrader: (16)

yea thought monster only had ls1 clutches

squee

iTrader: (16)

Yea, when I said that I forgot all about it being a LT1.

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

hope this helps.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-clutches.html

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

I disagree, I used to live on a steep uphill shell drive way and would have to slip the clutch every time to get out and it never shuttered either. works good for me OP course I've got quite a bit less power than you..

maxgee

iTrader: (5)

man, this is funny/i hear a lot of people don't like the centerforce, but i had one in my h/c lt1 and have one in my turbo ls1 and no issues...holds the power and no on off feeling. weird

fast377

iTrader: (52)

Mine drives like stock. Grips just fine.

squee

iTrader: (16)

I dunno. Its odd that mines like a on/off switch, but some feel like stock. I dunno. I got mine when i bought my T56 and I wasn't the one to break it in (only had a few hundred miles on it though), but don't know. It never slipped, even with the turbo, but its just really grabby. Makes it kinda hard to take off without having to give it a good bit of gas and SLOWLY let the clutch out. Otherwise it shakes and stutters.

ksk1980

iTrader: (33)

my Centerforce DF held up great for 20,000 miles no issues or slipping . pedal felt like the stock clutch . though at really high Rpm's it was kinda hard going through the gears (kinda felt like the shifter was hanging up going into gear but i know its not the tranny as i had it beefed up and 3/4 syncro replaced) but anything below 68-6900 rpm's it was smooth as glass. never had the chattering ppl are talking about but i used the steel Centerforce flywheel w/ this clutch.

i need a new clutch now .
how much does the Monster clutch's run cost wise for say a stage 3 ??????

leachbuz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the information . . . . . not sure If the centerforce is right for me or not?
Some of you all say the centerforce dual friction is a good clutch, others are saying that it is grabby and not good for modded cars.

Monster will be selling clutches for the LT1 in a couple of months, I may try them. The bad part is that I would be one of the first guys to be trying out the LT1 (stage 3)version of monster.

squee

iTrader: (16)

Mine has the same problem. Its kinda hard to shift at higher RPMs. I figured it was the master cylinder, like some people have trouble with, but I guess its my clutch?

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

yeah that is odd. my CF aint exactly like my old stocker, which wasn't too old I think when I swapped. when I'd slip the stock 1 to get out of my old drive way it would shutter a bit every time but never with the CF and if I let out the clutch normal like at idle(1k) it will take off fine with no shuttering either. I cant comment on the high rpm shifting problems because I rarely go over 6k and never over 6.5k and have not noticed any issues

stangslayer98

I have the centerforce dfx it's in the break-in period. It does not clatter at all and the pedal feels like a Honda civic clutch very light.compared to the the bronze ram clutch I had

BALLSS

A DF is puc one side/organic other on disc aka "dual friction". many clutch companies offer this type of disc as a upgrade over stock.

Driveability should be OK with this type of disc but some post chatter.

Given the power you are headed for my $.02 is to go with a puc/puc type disc or dual disc type clutch. This will tend to be more "grab" than a "DF" type disc, generally wear faster given the driving conditions they are subject to. I had the SPEC 2+ which did hold very well but had a hair trigger on street maners. driving habits will need to adjust in keeping it from chattering on take off. The SPEC died at 2000 miles.

I have driven a street twin set up. pedal is stiff and it is more on/off on engagement but can hold some serious power.

My current clutch is the ZOOM HP. It is a puc/puc with kevlar based puc material. I have to say it is smooth as silk on the street after break-in.

I make 400 to the wheels and have a 4400 lb car FWIW

pics of ZOOM

500hpZ06

iTrader: (11)

I don't think you can compare the LT1 clutches to the LS1 clutches, regardless of brand...
two different pressure plate styles, two different engagement rates/geometries.
Also, Centerforce offers 4 or 5 options for LS1 cars (not sure about LT1 offerings). Their 11" is for mild bolt-on cars. Their 12" is more for serious street cars, still with good driveability. I hear the DFX is kinda a harsher version of the 12". Then they have an aluminum pressure plate option for you road racer types.
Some of the LS1's shifting or pedal troubles can be attributed to hydraulics/binding slaves/worn masters.
I think the LT1 choices are somewhat limited (single discs for big power), since I believe most manufacturers still source their pressure plates all from Valeo.
I actually like SPEC's II or III for an LT1, but don't like them on LS1s.

It is a tough subject to research. Many opinions, tons of different car/combo variables, and all manufacturers claim they have the most holding power with great driveability. Good luck.