LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

Hey guys, I am a couple of seconds from losing my mind. This is my third BRAND NEW slave cylinder to leak right after being installed. I have adjusted the master all the way to the lowest point since reading how Tick master cylinders can blow slaves by pushing to much fluid. Well, that was the second slave. This slave I purchased afterwards was installed and i never even pressed the clutch pedal in, never even finished installing the driveshaft before I noticed the drops coming from the bellhousing.

So my question is, since it seems as if the master is causing the issues, how in the heck is it the case if the clutch has been adjusted to the lowest point? Also, is there any way I could be screwing up the slave by having to pull the transmission in with longer bolts to get the transmission mounted fully? The transmission will slide in easily until it stops at the throw out bearing. from that point I have to pull the transmission in with longer bolts.

I have mcleod street twin clutch and the alignment was checked numerous times and the tool slid in and out with no obstruction. slave cylinder bleeder was cracked open when attempting to push the transmission in further.

Here is the video showing the misery I have been dealing with for over a month now.

Hardcoresoldier

iTrader: (2)

have you measured for proper slave shimming? If it is not shimmed it will have too much travel resulting in leaks pretty much every time. I have my pedal set almost to the top so my cruise will work and no issues.

fleetmgr

You don't mention what store you're getting your slave's at. My bet is heavily on the side of Chinese crap, especially when they start leaking before you've even stroked it one time.

BALLSS

"street twin" in a 99?? or RST/RXT "twin"?

might want to ping Billy @ McLeod about your issue

FWIW here is what he says about larger MC's for the RST/RXT twin clutches (post # 9)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-rxt-come.html

for a LT1 "street Twin, yes a larger MC 13/16 bore...not the larger 7/8 bore Tick

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the replies guys. I actually have a 99 ls1 with the mcleod original street twin:

http://www.tickperformance.com/mcleo...capacity-1200/

I have purchased 2 ram slaves from summit and the last one was a chevy slave from summit (they are almost identical).

I guess I will have to actually do the measuring to see if it requires shimming. I didn't think it needed it since the slave was actually pushed in a bit from tightening the transmission. You can see in the video that the rod is exposed about half an inch. The slave having too much travel makes since, but does it apply to this case even when the clutch was never touched?

Hardcoresoldier

iTrader: (2)

you absolutely have to measure for a shim. No question about it.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

Another question I have, The tabs that are between the PP and the fingers fell out after the first time installing the clutch. I don't see it being a problem since the forks compress pretty far in once torqued. just thought I'd ask...

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

Well, I guess I will have to break it down again.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

use a gm slave , and why do you have to use longer bolts to pull your trans in , you should not have to do that. I dont see why its the problem but that seems odd. go with a gm slave .

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

the last slave (the one in the video) is a gm slave. I am not sure if I have issues with installing the tranny I am using the super magnum from tick or not?? I don't think it is the pilot bearing. It is new and does not stop the install tool regardless of the angle I tried to push it in at. The tranny stops at the throw out bearing.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

this is a video of my second slave. This is why i do not believe it is "shim" related. As it does not seem like it is overextended. It is pressed in a good amount and doesn't move at all when the clutch is pressed in. the fluid just leaks out more which is why there is no pressure to move the clutch:

SladeX

You need to measure if you need a shim. I had a guide paper with my spec clutch I followed, but its searchable here.

Next, when pulling the transmission on, naturally, the slave will "compress" down as the transmission goes onto the engine. Your slave looks nearly fully extended. I just took a look at my spare slave in my parts box and from the looks of the spring, its not compressed in at all. Any pressure applied by the fluid after the fact will just overextend the unit and leak. You need to measure asap.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

wow, so all this time I thought the amount it was pushed in was "a lot" IF you look closely in the video, you can see the greased rod on the slave. The TOB was pressed in a good bit by the fingers of the PP. You are saying that the TOB has barely been pressed in as it sits now? It looks like it is nearly bottomed out. I am just trying to be clear

fleetmgr

When I replaced the slave on my 96, there was a plastic band holding the slave piston in the fully compressed position. If yours has this (don't know, wrong year), DON'T CUT IT. Bolt the slave on completely, and pump the clutch pedal to break the band, which is what the directions say. If you cut it ahead of time, the spring in the slave pushes the piston out of the bore.

Hardcoresoldier

iTrader: (2)

when I install them, I bleed all the fluid out and leave the bleeder open. This makes it pretty easy to compress. After the install I flush the system and put good high temperature DOT 3 in it.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the reply. I have not received any of the 3 slaves with a band. My car is a 99 ls1.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

I have all new fluids all throughout my car. I have a new engine, new tranny, new clutch, new rear, new brakes, and new radiator. My car sat for over 2 years since I started my build and got stationed overseas for a year. I tried the open bleeder method this time around and it was a bit easier to get in, but the tranny still was unable to go in further without pulling it with bolts.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

If there is excessive TOB clearance our master or literally any master can over extend the slave and cause these issues.

It is a must to measure TOB clearance when installing ANY manufacturer's clutch.

If there is proper TOB clearance (our specs are .125-.200) you literally cannot over extend the slave cylinder with our master adjusted to its highest physical position.

GTA91

iTrader: (14)

I know its in here somewhere, buts what's the proper way to check for slave shimming or not? I've got mine apart right now installing a new Tick MC, speed bleeder, and slave and I want to make sure its all good.

Hardcoresoldier

iTrader: (2)

there is a sticky on it