I've got a couple questions about the speed bleeder line that I'd rather ask about than have to drop my tranny twice. First of all, does the entire bronze colored part shown in the picture come off, and the bleeder line then thread into the silver part of the slave?

Also, when I do thread the speed bleeder line into the slave, does this copper washer go between the slave and the line, or does it go as it is now (how it came from Tick, shown below)?


Thanks!

 

Yes remove entire bronze fitting. Yes place washer between housing and fitting, it should not be installed as pictured.

 

Good deal. Thanks!

 

Can you let us know how the bleeding goes with this? I have t56 going in my Chevelle and want to know what works best for bleeding the clutch.

 

Will do! I'm hoping to have everything buttoned up Saturday at the latest!

 

Nice. I picked up a t56 magnum and can't wait to install it. I'm going to pick up an ls3 soon and hopefully the floor pan surgery won't be too bad.

 

Well timed thread my friend. I'm in the same position -- going to need to pull the trans and have a Tick speed bleeder sitting right beside me. I seemed to recall that the bronze washer needed to be moved and am glad to see it was confirmed by others that obviously know much more about it than me!

Good luck with your install -- curious to hear your thoughts. I really hope this will finally be my solution for a one man clutch bleed.

 

Yours looks different than mine, but mine didn't bleed all to well by myself, although it took another 5 minutes with my dad to correct the problem. Mine is braided with some sort of coating on the outside, which ever version that is.

 

Finally got everything put back together the night before last, and put ~100 miles on it yesterday. I bled a completely dry clutch hydraulic system (new slave and master), without bench bleeding, completely by myself with the Tick speed bleeder. I highly recommend it if you are dropping your tranny and don't have one already. Also, the tick master and MGW shifter made my car a completely different car to drive. Very highly recommend all three products to any t56 owner.

 

Can you tell me what technique you used to bleed the dry system. I am having a nightmare bleeding mine! The more detail the better, thanks

 

It's in the sticky. I did it the same way. For me, bench bleeding seemed a waste of time. Takes 25 minutes TOTAL for a perfect pedal, and that was starting with a BONE DRY system. I could probably do it in 10 now.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-properly.html


Here's my post from that sticky:


What I did, with the Tick bleeder:

I installed everything empty. I didn't bench bleed a thing. No need to.

Now we all know the new Tick bleeder has a one way check valve. That's great if you have adequate fluid in the slave and master, but worthless if it's empty.

I filled the reservoir and left the cap off (obviously)

I began pumping the clutch pedal and couldn't get any fluid to move. So...

I took off the check valve part and set it to the side. Stuck that end of the hose into a mason jar (don't ask about the mason jar) half filled with DOT4, and began pumping the pedal. After about 8 pumps I was starting to lose fluid in the reservoir, so refilled and continued to pump.

Slowly my pedal pressure began to increase as the system became full of fluid, and shortly there after I reinstalled the check valve at the end. I tightened it all the way down, then cracked it open a half turn. At this point, I had fluid coming only from the one way check valve when I would push the pedal down.

**For those with a spongy pedal for the first half inch or so, read below**

After a full bottle of DOT4, I had removed all the air from the system, however my pedal was still a bit spongy during the first inch or so of downward travel (as folks have reorted in the past).

I called Martin and he advised only pump the "spongy" portion. I did, and the spongy part slowly came higher and higher in the pedal travel until it was gone. At that time I retorqued the check valve fully closed, and tried it with my foot for the first time. The entire time I bled the system was by hand.

Nice and hard the WHOLE way, start to finish. Took me all of 25 minutes start to finish, and it was my first time.

Hope this novel helps someone, but with the Tick speed bleeder, there's no reason to bench bleed anything at all

 

^^^ Thanks Dr. Whigham.

Stupid question -- my system was bled dry when we installed the Tick MC. The pedal is firm, so no issues there.

My question -- next time I want to bleed the clutch to mix in new fluid and to remove any air, what would I need to do? I have the Tick speed bleeder as well. I would guess: add more fluid to the reservoir, open the speed bleeder, pump the pedal and done?

 

If you just Crack the speed bleeder 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, it won't suck any air back in while you're bleeding it. You can stick the end in some clean fluid just to be safe too if you want.

 

Exactly as maro_z stated.


Just remember that first 1/4" or so. Quickly pump that little bit until it's firm from the VERY beginning.

 

Awesome -- thanks guys!