Tick Speed Bleeder Install Question
#1
Tick Speed Bleeder Install Question
I've got a couple questions about the speed bleeder line that I'd rather ask about than have to drop my tranny twice. First of all, does the entire bronze colored part shown in the picture come off, and the bleeder line then thread into the silver part of the slave?
Also, when I do thread the speed bleeder line into the slave, does this copper washer go between the slave and the line, or does it go as it is now (how it came from Tick, shown below)?
Thanks!
Also, when I do thread the speed bleeder line into the slave, does this copper washer go between the slave and the line, or does it go as it is now (how it came from Tick, shown below)?
Thanks!
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SpeedyMerrickan (06-18-2020)
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Well timed thread my friend. I'm in the same position -- going to need to pull the trans and have a Tick speed bleeder sitting right beside me. I seemed to recall that the bronze washer needed to be moved and am glad to see it was confirmed by others that obviously know much more about it than me!
Good luck with your install -- curious to hear your thoughts. I really hope this will finally be my solution for a one man clutch bleed.
Good luck with your install -- curious to hear your thoughts. I really hope this will finally be my solution for a one man clutch bleed.
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#9
#10
what technique you used to bleed the dry system
Can you tell me what technique you used to bleed the dry system. I am having a nightmare bleeding mine! The more detail the better, thanks
#11
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
It's in the sticky. I did it the same way. For me, bench bleeding seemed a waste of time. Takes 25 minutes TOTAL for a perfect pedal, and that was starting with a BONE DRY system. I could probably do it in 10 now.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-properly.html
Here's my post from that sticky:
What I did, with the Tick bleeder:
I installed everything empty. I didn't bench bleed a thing. No need to.
Now we all know the new Tick bleeder has a one way check valve. That's great if you have adequate fluid in the slave and master, but worthless if it's empty.
I filled the reservoir and left the cap off (obviously)
I began pumping the clutch pedal and couldn't get any fluid to move. So...
I took off the check valve part and set it to the side. Stuck that end of the hose into a mason jar (don't ask about the mason jar) half filled with DOT4, and began pumping the pedal. After about 8 pumps I was starting to lose fluid in the reservoir, so refilled and continued to pump.
Slowly my pedal pressure began to increase as the system became full of fluid, and shortly there after I reinstalled the check valve at the end. I tightened it all the way down, then cracked it open a half turn. At this point, I had fluid coming only from the one way check valve when I would push the pedal down.
**For those with a spongy pedal for the first half inch or so, read below**
After a full bottle of DOT4, I had removed all the air from the system, however my pedal was still a bit spongy during the first inch or so of downward travel (as folks have reorted in the past).
I called Martin and he advised only pump the "spongy" portion. I did, and the spongy part slowly came higher and higher in the pedal travel until it was gone. At that time I retorqued the check valve fully closed, and tried it with my foot for the first time. The entire time I bled the system was by hand.
Nice and hard the WHOLE way, start to finish. Took me all of 25 minutes start to finish, and it was my first time.
Hope this novel helps someone, but with the Tick speed bleeder, there's no reason to bench bleed anything at all
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-properly.html
Here's my post from that sticky:
What I did, with the Tick bleeder:
I installed everything empty. I didn't bench bleed a thing. No need to.
Now we all know the new Tick bleeder has a one way check valve. That's great if you have adequate fluid in the slave and master, but worthless if it's empty.
I filled the reservoir and left the cap off (obviously)
I began pumping the clutch pedal and couldn't get any fluid to move. So...
I took off the check valve part and set it to the side. Stuck that end of the hose into a mason jar (don't ask about the mason jar) half filled with DOT4, and began pumping the pedal. After about 8 pumps I was starting to lose fluid in the reservoir, so refilled and continued to pump.
Slowly my pedal pressure began to increase as the system became full of fluid, and shortly there after I reinstalled the check valve at the end. I tightened it all the way down, then cracked it open a half turn. At this point, I had fluid coming only from the one way check valve when I would push the pedal down.
**For those with a spongy pedal for the first half inch or so, read below**
After a full bottle of DOT4, I had removed all the air from the system, however my pedal was still a bit spongy during the first inch or so of downward travel (as folks have reorted in the past).
I called Martin and he advised only pump the "spongy" portion. I did, and the spongy part slowly came higher and higher in the pedal travel until it was gone. At that time I retorqued the check valve fully closed, and tried it with my foot for the first time. The entire time I bled the system was by hand.
Nice and hard the WHOLE way, start to finish. Took me all of 25 minutes start to finish, and it was my first time.
Hope this novel helps someone, but with the Tick speed bleeder, there's no reason to bench bleed anything at all
#12
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
^^^ Thanks Dr. Whigham.
Stupid question -- my system was bled dry when we installed the Tick MC. The pedal is firm, so no issues there.
My question -- next time I want to bleed the clutch to mix in new fluid and to remove any air, what would I need to do? I have the Tick speed bleeder as well. I would guess: add more fluid to the reservoir, open the speed bleeder, pump the pedal and done?
Stupid question -- my system was bled dry when we installed the Tick MC. The pedal is firm, so no issues there.
My question -- next time I want to bleed the clutch to mix in new fluid and to remove any air, what would I need to do? I have the Tick speed bleeder as well. I would guess: add more fluid to the reservoir, open the speed bleeder, pump the pedal and done?
#13
^^^ Thanks Dr. Whigham.
Stupid question -- my system was bled dry when we installed the Tick MC. The pedal is firm, so no issues there.
My question -- next time I want to bleed the clutch to mix in new fluid and to remove any air, what would I need to do? I have the Tick speed bleeder as well. I would guess: add more fluid to the reservoir, open the speed bleeder, pump the pedal and done?
Stupid question -- my system was bled dry when we installed the Tick MC. The pedal is firm, so no issues there.
My question -- next time I want to bleed the clutch to mix in new fluid and to remove any air, what would I need to do? I have the Tick speed bleeder as well. I would guess: add more fluid to the reservoir, open the speed bleeder, pump the pedal and done?